well my OHV has alot of ticking noises again, I tried the seafoam, and the noises went away for about 3 days, then came back. now I know my engine is fine, since I really give it good maintenace, so my guess is that its just old and its normal for it to do this. so I was thinking of putting 10W - 50 in it, since its a little thicker than the 10W-40 I normally use, I thought it would help cover up some of those ticks. so I have 2 questions.
1. first of all, can I even use 10W50 on an ohv 2.2.?
2. if so, it wont hurt anything if the engine is used to 10W40?
3. will it help, even if its a little, stop all those engine noises?
4.is there any other alternative? other than a complete rebuild.
thanks, any info is appreciated... it really sucks when people look at your car and think your engine is F'ed up cause its making all those sounds.
I thought the 2200 called for 5w 30 motor oil? Don't know about 10w 50. Kinda sounds like lifter noise where there not pumping up properly. I'd actually try the 5w 30 and see what happens as thinner oil flows better. If you're up to it, and yes I've done it before, pop the valve cover and crank it up and let it idle, take a screwdriver and place it to your ear and the other end on top of the rocker arm nut/bolt. You'll hear it if you've got a bad lifter. Be careful and cover up your engine to keep oil from getting all over it.
it as been ask a million times.
It's not the lifters, it's the timming chain that strech up and rub on the cover. No you don't use 10w40 with a 2.2. The noise will still be there.
Even if the valves cover is off the 2.2 head, you'll get splash with oil but the engine won't be damaged unless the rockers don't get enough oil.
It's a normal thing for the 2.2 so you have to live with it or change the chain.
Gilles
2.3 Ho
oh I forgot to mention, I just changed the timing chain about 2 months ago.... so ur telling me I dont use 10w40 on the 2.2? thats what ive used since ive owned it.
well 10w/40 is usually used in diesel engines, I wouldnt recommend it, 5w/ 30 is recommended, 10w/40 or 20w/w50 oils should only be used in hot summer weather, The oil stays thicker with high heat temps in stop and go city driving. Unless youre car is burning oil thicker oil slows the burning. Ive used 20w/50w in the winter months, I noticed the differance when I changed it to 5w/ 30w.
u mentioned something about being in the hot summer, well I live in a desert city down here in EP, our summers get to over 100 degress, and our winters rarely go under 50 degrees, so I guess I should be fine using 10W40 due to my hot environment? oh yeah, and all I do is city driving, since most of EP is urban.
Does anyone know what 5W30 mean? 5W means 5 "Winter" Which means that the oil when cold is only 5 weight. When the oil gets to operating temperature, it then turns to 30 weight.
So why do we use a 5 weight?
Our motors require a lot of lubrication when cold, @ 5 motor oil flows easily to all little moving parts. This will prevent a lot of wear when cold. Finally when the motor warms up to normal temp, around 194 degrees, the oil will then operatate a normal 30 weight.
You can use 10w30, but I would not really recommend anyone using anything past 30 weight.
Correct me if I am wrong about this.
New Picture comming this summer.
Boardorgohome wrote:i know my 2.4 calls for 5w30....and i think oyou may be talking about that motor. And i dont think you can turn the motor on with the valve cover off with the 2200.....it would be a mess and not good for the motor.
I've done this before on cars and oil does sling everywhere, but like i said just let it idle and it won't be bad and cover up the engine.
Now that I remember I have read about the timing chain tensioner so big thumbs up to mfk-223 cuz he may be onto something good here.
Megaman wrote:Does anyone know what 5W30 mean? 5W means 5 "Winter" Which means that the oil when cold is only 5 weight. When the oil gets to operating temperature, it then turns to 30 weight.
So why do we use a 5 weight?
Our motors require a lot of lubrication when cold, @ 5 motor oil flows easily to all little moving parts. This will prevent a lot of wear when cold. Finally when the motor warms up to normal temp, around 194 degrees, the oil will then operatate a normal 30 weight.
You can use 10w30, but I would not really recommend anyone using anything past 30 weight.
Correct me if I am wrong about this.
there is nothing really wrong with using a higher warm viscosity motor oil such as 5W50. the warmer the oil gets, the thicker the oil will get. the thicker the oil, the better protection to a point.
thick oil is not always the best, especially when the temperature gets cold. thicker motor oil will generally help tapping valves and that type of problems as it will provide a better barrier of protection.
personally, if you are havving a problem that you think is a sticking valve or lifter or that type of noise, i would try running a synthetic motor oil or a high mileage motor oil (which is basically just a semi or full synthetic).
the reason why our cars call for 5w30 is more or less for emmissions. the thinner oil frees the engine up a little bit more, neededing less power to do the same work. unfortunatly the thinner oil doesnt always protect better. synthetic motor oil will generally offer better protection and still be very free flowing to help with lowering emmissions.
and on a side note... whats with everyone having a hard on for this seafoam crap...
any wonder product cleaner like seafoam that can be used in my oil, my gastank, and god knows where ever else in the car is not something i would want to be using. additives generally contain chemicals that are harmful to your engine. they can eat through your gaskets and o-rings. hell why not just put antifreeze in before your next oil change, its robably cheaper... and as the saying goes, nothing washes oil off a piston better than antifreeze.
i dont know, the only additive i have ever put in my car is fuel injector cleaner, and even that stuff when used incorrectly can foul up your injectors from what i have heard.
the only FLUSH type cleaning my oil system gets are one of 2 things. a half a liter of oil through it before i change it (i work in a shop, im paying for up to 5 liters of oil so im going to use it). th second is an engine flush by a company called renew. the car doesnt need to be on for this, it plugs into your oil pan and your filter housing and pumps in under pressure to clean up all the carbon deposits and such.
sorry about my rant, but like i said, i dont understand the point of the magical seafoam.
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
whitegoose wrote:Megaman wrote:Does anyone know what 5W30 mean? 5W means 5 "Winter" Which means that the oil when cold is only 5 weight. When the oil gets to operating temperature, it then turns to 30 weight.
So why do we use a 5 weight?
Our motors require a lot of lubrication when cold, @ 5 motor oil flows easily to all little moving parts. This will prevent a lot of wear when cold. Finally when the motor warms up to normal temp, around 194 degrees, the oil will then operatate a normal 30 weight.
You can use 10w30, but I would not really recommend anyone using anything past 30 weight.
Correct me if I am wrong about this.
there is nothing really wrong with using a higher warm viscosity motor oil such as 5W50. the warmer the oil gets, the thicker the oil will get. the thicker the oil, the better protection to a point.
thick oil is not always the best, especially when the temperature gets cold. thicker motor oil will generally help tapping valves and that type of problems as it will provide a better barrier of protection.
personally, if you are havving a problem that you think is a sticking valve or lifter or that type of noise, i would try running a synthetic motor oil or a high mileage motor oil (which is basically just a semi or full synthetic).
the reason why our cars call for 5w30 is more or less for emmissions. the thinner oil frees the engine up a little bit more, neededing less power to do the same work. unfortunatly the thinner oil doesnt always protect better. synthetic motor oil will generally offer better protection and still be very free flowing to help with lowering emmissions.
and on a side note... whats with everyone having a hard on for this seafoam crap...
any wonder product cleaner like seafoam that can be used in my oil, my gastank, and god knows where ever else in the car is not something i would want to be using. additives generally contain chemicals that are harmful to your engine. they can eat through your gaskets and o-rings. hell why not just put antifreeze in before your next oil change, its robably cheaper... and as the saying goes, nothing washes oil off a piston better than antifreeze.
i dont know, the only additive i have ever put in my car is fuel injector cleaner, and even that stuff when used incorrectly can foul up your injectors from what i have heard.
the only FLUSH type cleaning my oil system gets are one of 2 things. a half a liter of oil through it before i change it (i work in a shop, im paying for up to 5 liters of oil so im going to use it). th second is an engine flush by a company called renew. the car doesnt need to be on for this, it plugs into your oil pan and your filter housing and pumps in under pressure to clean up all the carbon deposits and such.
sorry about my rant, but like i said, i dont understand the point of the magical seafoam.
Yes there is. If you run thicker oil, especially 50w, that oil will not travel through the oil channels well enough to lubricate all moving parts. on top of that your oil pressure would go through the roof that might cause a gasket or a seal to go if and when you red-line the motor. it will put more of a load on the motor as well.
PS Let me know how the "antifreeze in the oil" works out for you.
Yeah For SeaFoam!!!
New Picture comming this summer.
lol you like my antifreeze bit huh...
my sister has a 1992 eagle summit /dodge colt... i know i feel bad for her.
anyways, where i work, we got her to switch to synthetic. we carry Castrol Syntec 5W50. the car has never ran better. any problem she had with the car running rough, noice, etc is all gone.
its a mitsubishi engine, apparently it is notorious for blowing head gaskets. it has well over 200,000 km+ on it and is still going strong.
and we didnt even have to use a single can of SEAFOAM
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
That car is a 92', not an 04
New Picture comming this summer.
Megaman wrote:That car is a 92', not an 04
the point is the same, year shouldnt make a lick of difference
Injection is nice but id rather be BLOWN!
Orlandomon: Did you replace the timing chain tensioner?
As for the oil debate: Whatever your oil cap says, put that in the engine. It was designed for that oil by people who know their stuff.
The weight ratings. The higher the number the thicker the oil, see everyone got that one. As oil heats up it becomes more viscous (thinner). The "weight" is actually an index number. If you want to read up on it you could purchase the
SAE J300 Spec.
The first number is what the oil is when it's cold (0C, 32F). The second number is the index when it's hot (100C, 212F). So a 5w30 oil behaves like a 5 weight at 32*, and like a 30 weight at 212*. The oil is still thinner at the higher temperature; but not as thin as a plain 5 weight oil would have been.
Using the wrong weight oil can definately cause the oil to not pump all the way to the top of the engine and/or other problems. Also, higher viscoscity oil does not stick to things, or lubricate any "better" than a lower viscoscity oil. It simply flows slower.
There are additives that can change the oil's properties. And synthetic oil does lube better than dead dino juice. Whether that makes any difference is up for a whole other debate. For a brief summary I see it as if you're tring to kill yourself, what does it matter if you use a 12guage shotgun to the head, or a 90mm tank shell? Mission accomplished either way, right?
^^ yeah I changed the tensioner, and the sprockets too.
... but my question remains unanswered, should I use 10W50? or should I switch to synthetic? then again I heard synthetic will wear out seals and cause me to have oil leaks, which I really dont want. or should I try high mileage oil?
i work at an oil change and have never heard of someone putting 10w 40 in a cavalier, everyone that has come in has used 5w 30, i only have used 10w 40 in bigger non diesel trucks that pull alot
Well Orlandomon, Save alot of hassle just use 5w 30w synth oil.
