Okay, I have been here for a little while and I still consider myself a noob, probably so does everyone else. I have installed the B&M shift plus. The thing is my check engine light is on. Yes I connected it to the right wires on the plug. I love the way it shifts, so I do not in anyway want to take the kit off. However I do want the check engine light to be off. I have taken the negative terminal off to reset the computer, went away for a little while, but it is back on now. The other thing is it is not shifting like it did right after I installed it. The shifts are not as firm, but it is still pretty firm though. How do I fix this?

make sure your wires are secured down good... i used the quick splices it came with and they connected pretty loose and it gave me problems

you should get a scanner or use a scanner to find out what code you are throwing... i had this and i never got an engine light


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I am going to have to get a soldering gun and connect that way because I am using something like what they sent with it as well. I am going to auto zone in a few minutes and use their scanner and try to clear the code and see if that works. Also I have more of the connectors that I used and I am going to make sure that there is wires showing and then reconnect the clips to the wires. I also have something like the electrical tape, it is for aircraft wiring. Selfbonding really streachy rubber like tape. Holds up to heat extremely well, got it from work, gotta love my AT's (aircraft avionics tech's).

Yeah, I installed my B&M shift plus on my eco, and I can barely tell if it is working. I Am sure I have it connected to the right wires, and they are on there good. Do I have to disconect the ground for a few minutes, or are the gains not that noticable?

Oh the gains are very noticable. While I am in Drive, going into 2nd gear the tires will chirp, and then going into 3rd gear it sounds like I have a bov installed, which I do not. The black wire on the shift plus goes to the light blue/white wire on the plug, the red wire goes to the red/black striped wire. Now there are 2 red/black stripped wires on there, one has a thinner black stripe and one with a thicker black stripe. You want the one with the thicker black stripe. I made the mistake to connect the red wire to the red/black stirpe wire with the thinner stripe, barely noticed any gains, changed it to the wire that has the thicker black stripe. Once I did that, the gains were very noticable in both settings. I have the traction control light comes on in either setting, and the other thing is my check engine light came on. Went to autozone and cleared it, came back when I brought a friend over to an audio shop. There is really nothing wrong with the engine, the codes are for the TRANSMISSION INPUT & OUTPUT SHAFT SPEEDS. So I know nothing is wrong and the kit is working properly. The one thing is that it does take a little bit to build up pressure in the transmission when starting in setting 2, only a few minutes though. But very noticalbe gains.

so is this a must buy for auto trannies?

I would say yes

z22 wrote:so is this a must buy for auto trannies?

meh.... http://www.j-body.org/forums/read.php?f=2&i=357832&t=357832

Rob





Sold 2/2/05

Yeah I just ordered one yesterday. Seems like it reacts differently on different cars. It appears noone gets the same results. Oh well I got mine for $15, if it doesn't work well..I'm out $15 no biggy..

Bah.. contrary to popular belief, it's not actually the tires chirping, it's your belt squeaking. Same thing happens with the Autotrans Interceptor.

If you're at WOT and drop back to part throttle it'll do it too... and there's no way an otherwise stock car will break the tires loose enough to "chirp" going into any gear at part throttle....

^ Btw, I know this for a fact.... I proved it a long time ago.... try it yourself.... drive around with the drive belt off for a few minutes.... strangely enough, the noise will stop.

Get better tires... or bald ones... it will remain unchanged. Trust me, it's the belt.

05cav LS Sedan wrote:and then going into 3rd gear it sounds like I have a bov installed, which I do not.

This is true, if you have an aftermarket intake, it sounds awesome

Sounds like that could be it, it is just a weird noise that I am not used to hearing from my car. But anyway. The only problem that I am having with it is this. My check engine light is on. I think that the plug got wet, the part that plugs back into the transmission. So I think that I am going to get a new plug for that, and hopefully that there will be wires on the plug so that I cna just cut the end of the plug off and then attach the new plug. I am hoping anyway. Other than that I have absolutely no complaints about the shift plus.

I would try pushing the plug in HARDER.

This was my problem, I thought it was plugged in but I was getting a CEL, so I pushed it in really hard and it clicked. Now no problems.

I will try pushing it in further, before I try to change the plug. Because I am getting a CEL as well. The codes that I am getting are for the input and output shafts. So I will try pushing the plug in further first.

Best bet is to get the codes scanned, find out what's putting the CEL on. Could be related, could be something completely different.

Erk, I CAN READ

Ha ha ha.... yes, sounds like the plug isn't in all the way then!!

The codes are for the inout and output speed shafts. That is what the scanner said when I went to auto zone and borrowed their scanner. The plug is pushed in all the way, will not go any further, I heared the double click when I puched the plug back in. I have to go somewhere after lunch and I will find out then if it cured the problem.

The plug is in as far as it is going to go. The check engine light still came on. So I am going to start look at replacing the plug. Since this GM site I went on said it was wet in anyway (the face of the plug) then it is bad and needs to be replaced. But when I get home I am going to try something to push it in a little further. I do not know what but I am thinking a pair of vise grips might get the job done. With everything that is sitting right there it is hard to get at. Like the radiator hose that runs right in the way of getting to that plug.

Yeah, it's a bitch to work on.

Make sure you used the right red/black wire too. There are two.

Yes I know that. I am not at all complaining about it not working, because it is. The connections are a little loose, but that can be fixed rather easily. It is all about the check engine light. The damn thing just will not stay off. I am going to be calling a GM dealership to see WTF?

Oh wait.

Have you cleared the CEL yet?

If you just plugged the plug in harder without clearing the CEL, it won't go away.

If you don't know how:
1-disconnect ( - ) battery cable
2-hold in brake pedal for about 30 seconds
3-reconnect battery
4-turn on and check for CEL

Just throwing things out there. Good luck

I will try this as soon as I get home and changed. I did not know about all of that. Thanks.

I got rid of the quick splices, I striped the wires back and connected them that way. Then I connected the negative battery terminal back on and then ran the piss out of it on my way to auto zone. Which I did not go to, since the check engine light did not come on. But I am running my car tonight so we will see if this worked the problem out of it, knock on wood.
Get 'er done!!!!!!!!!!

Well the light came back on, so I went to autozone, disconnected the negative from the battery, pressed the brake for 30 seconds, connected the negative to the battery, turn the ignition on, and ran the scanner. the scanner came back with no codes. After I left auto zone the check engine light came back on. I let the car sit for a while, turned the shift plus off and then came back home, on my way back home the light did not come back on. I am about to give up with the shift plus. The plug will not go in any further than it is right now. So I do not know.