Before I got deployed to the desert I had been working on rebuilding a salvaged 99 Cavalier RS. I'm done with the bodywork on it, and am now down to deciding what to do for front/rear bumpers and suspension.

My parts car has been a 98 Z24, I'll be using the front and rear bumpers (and possibly side skirts) on the RS. The RS' bumpers were destroyed when it was wrecked. The RS has the FE0 suspension (read: no sway bars). Now, if I swap the FE2 suspension from the Z24 into the RS, would the RS still be considered stock, as the FE2 is a stock suspension option for the cavalier? And would the bumpers/skirts throw the car out of the stock class?

Basically, my goal for the time being is getting the car put back together, and have some fun with it. Later modifications may or may not take place depending on how I like auto-x. I used to have a pdf copy of the SCCA classifications and rules, but need to go hunt it down again.

You all know as well as I that the J-bodies aren't exactly the best platform for auto-x nor drag racing, but if it's something that I like, I've got the support of the bodyshop I work at (and the two junkyards across the street) for help if I break something or need parts.

Stock Class rules:
* Anything available on the exact model and year of your car as standard or optional equipment, as installed on the factory assembly line (nothing available only dealer-installed is allowed), plus
* Standard OEM identical replacement parts
* Accessories, gauges, appearance, comfort, and convenience items (not replacement driver's seat, though) that basically don't help
* Added roll bar or roll cage to spec (not required, though)
* Driver harness (no cutting seats to install, though)
* Trailer hitch and/or tow bar mountings
* Any wheel of diameter and width identical to a stock or factory optional wheel, offset within +- 0.25 inch
* Most street legal tires that will fit the mounted wheels and stock bodywork
* Any shock absorber of the same type and mounting as original; no change to standard spring mountings is allowed; suspension geometry may not be altered; gas or hydraulic shocks are permitted
* Any brake linings; pre-1992 cars may use solid/braided metal brake lines.
* Any front anti-roll bar (no change to stock/optional rear anti-roll bar, if present)
* Manufacturer specified ignition settings only
* Any replacement air filter element (or removal of air filter element); no plumbing changes, however
* Engine bored no more than .020"; no balancing or porting/polishing of head
* Replacement of any part of the exhaust system past the catalytic converter (if quiet)
* Any oil filter
* Added clutch scattershield

You should have no problems running the z-24 kit. If you are still using the 2.2l engine then you should remain in HS. If you swapped to a 2.4L just run GS.

Thanks a lot, that's what I was thinking. I don't plan on an engine swap any time soon. I do have the 2.4 on an engine stand right now though, it's more of an 'in-case' engine, the 2200 got started for the first time in about a year yesterday (finally!), and I'm not too sure of the overall engine condition yet.

I got smrt and found the SCCA website (and the pdf of the rulebook).

Once I get my digital camera working, I should have some progress photos of the bodywork and suspension.

One last question, the race season is pretty much at an end right now, is there anything that you do for practice outside of the regular season? With regards to driving technique, I've known how to "heel-toe" (aka double-clutch) downshift for a while. Are there any other helpful techniques (or places I could find such information) that would be beneficial?

"ALWAYS drive the race line"

Actually by technicallity if your running all the Z24 stuff on a non-Z24 you would be in STS. You shouldn't have any problems regionally running in stock class, but nationally you might, because a lot of the guys up there have their pants so tight if you breathe wrong they'll protest you.

You can fully change the car to an available model, of the same year, by adding the options of that get up to that model, or removing options to change to a lesser model.

Otherwise it would not be in stock class.

All in all my view has always been if your not having fun, there's no reason in doing it. Your gonna love autocross.

ALSO!! get some koni's or AGX's for your ride, and some r-comps if your going to be running in stock class.

Check out the following books:
Secrets of SOLO
How to Make Your car Handle
and
Going Faster

all are great points of study. I have a copy of each in my personal library


-Chris

My feelings are that if someone wants to protest you because you are using z-24 bumpers and sideskirts over the 2.2 stuff they are just big pussies.

Zach wrote:My feelings are that if someone wants to protest you because you are using z-24 bumpers and sideskirts over the 2.2 stuff they are just big pussies.

Never underestimate how pathetic and underhanded some people become when they get out driven by someone in an inferior car




CACC BC Region - DSP
http:www.victoriamotorsports.ca

oldskoolz24 wrote:

Zach wrote:My feelings are that if someone wants to protest you because you are using z-24 bumpers and sideskirts over the 2.2 stuff they are just big pussies.

Never underestimate how pathetic and underhanded some people become when they get out driven by someone in an inferior car

I live for defeating the "superior cars".

What I love even more is when someone puts down the car then you get a reaction of "wow" when they see your end result.

Shows you that a good driver can make a mediocre car good, and an ok to bad driver can make an superior car look bad.


-Chris

IamRascal wrote:

oldskoolz24 wrote:

Zach wrote:My feelings are that if someone wants to protest you because you are using z-24 bumpers and sideskirts over the 2.2 stuff they are just big pussies.

Never underestimate how pathetic and underhanded some people become when they get out driven by someone in an inferior car

I live for defeating the "superior cars".

What I love even more is when someone puts down the car then you get a reaction of "wow" when they see your end result.

Shows you that a good driver can make a mediocre car good, and an ok to bad driver can make an superior car look bad.

I don't know what it is, but it always seems to be novice mustang drivers that make stupid comments to me (or I overhear)...then I run 3 -4 seconds faster then them and they ask what engine I swapped in! LMAO




CACC BC Region - DSP
http:www.victoriamotorsports.ca

I think the car will end up being STS anyways. I removed the side molding so I could do the bodywork necessary for the car, and really don't plan on putting it back on. It's not that big of a deal for me what class removing the side molding bumps me into; I like the look of the car without the side molding, and I don't want to reinstall it on a fresh paint job, just to remove it again later down the road. With how close the car is to being streetable now, and the time I have before the next regional season begins, I think I'll have time for some upgrades to make the car a bit more STS competitive. Overall, I'm just going to take it as it comes; I can only afford so much between my expensive hobbies (amateur radio, 4x4, and car building) and don't make nearly as much as I'd like (I'm sure there's plenty of you who feel similar ).

IamRascal:
Thanks for the book titles, I'll give those a look.

Just an idea, but perhaps a FAQ could be assembled for J-bodies and auto-x. I'd be willing to help with it, but being as I have no auto-x experience, I really couldn't contribute.

STS, competitive, and j-body do not belong in the same sentance-- especially if your j-body has a 2.2l in it.

You are much better off with HS or FSP. I wouldn't worry about the door mouldings taking you out of HS.

any appearance mods that dont affect performance are ok in stock class
so therefore removing the side modlings would be fine, unlesss some scumbag wants to protest that its weight reduction, then u just kick him in the shin and drive stock anyway

Zach wrote:STS, competitive, and j-body do not belong in the same sentance-- especially if your j-body has a 2.2l in it..

*pop* There goes my bubble >:| j/k. To be honest, I really don't care (well I do, but not that much) what class the car ends up in, I'm just looking to give Solo2 a try. If it's something that I like, and want to get a little more serious about, I've been told I have free reign over a few cars up at the shop. Namely, a 76 datsun 240z, 91 camaro z28, a gutted datsun 510, and a 99 S-10 ZQ8.

I think this is the plan I've developed. Finish the car as I planned, and go to a few Solo2 events. If it's something that I like, build up a better car for Solo2 and in the meantime drive the cavy so I can get seat time and experience.

We'll see how this goes, Jerry (the guy that owns the bodyshop I work at) has gotten pretty enthusiastic about it, and even my girlfriend seems to like the idea. Well, she likes it better than the alternative, which was my plan to build up a drag car (datsun 240z with a SBC). But her opinion was more along the lines of "at least I won't have to worry about you hitting the wall or getting T-boned" Last time we went out to the races we saw a guy get t-boned at 140+ mph, not fun to watch

Anyways, the cavalier will still get some suspension upgrades, I've driven cavs with the FE0 package, and I don't care for the "floating" feeling going down the highway.

I don't think technically there's any way to run the RS in the stock class with the Z24 suspension parts, well, specifically the rear swaybar. Everything else is the same, you're effectively just adding a rear sway bar.

You can add the front swaybar no problem, but the rear will throw you out of stock.

You'd honestly be better off using the z24 entirely, or putting everything that makes it a z24 onto the RS, and then you MIGHT be able to run it in G-stock.

Like it was said earlier, you might be able to run in HS anyway locally, but definitely not regionally or nationally


-------------------------------------------------
Sleeper style, they don't see it coming that way.

There's a guy down in the brr region with a 510 with a BFE (big fn engine). SM sweetness.

the 240 would also be a cool car to work with.


-Chris

The Z24 is unsalvageable as a whole car, bent front clip, subframe out of whack, front left control arms destroyed, driver's door is unsalvageable. Kansas is big on the VIN matching from the door to the dash

The 2.4 that was in the Z24 was pulled, and I sold it about a month ago. So, the RS has little chance of 'becoming' a Z24.

I've got a couple 350's, a 383, and two big-block chevy's that would fit nicely into a datsun Z, just a matter of finding a transmission and the motivation to do the work. If I were going the engine swap route with a Z-car, I think I'd try to get a hold of a turbo rotary engine