Well i was talking to some guys here in town with civics that they drive on the street and put down pretty quick 1/4 mile times and they said they run with these traction bars (check link below) and it helps out HUGE!!... just wondering if there is any thing out there for a Jbody and if not, would it be worth having the fab shop that did all the work on my sunfire build up some of these...
also i still don't get how it would work on a FWD car... RWD its an easy concept but i dont see how it works on a FWD... any one help me out?
any way here is the link
Civic Traction bars
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
I tried getting people interested in these and everyone called me a fool for thinking they'd help. I'd know for sure if the set I had made for myself hadn't gotten stolen when I put them outside the shop to dry after painting them. Stupid kids. Stupid me for not keeping better measurements too, or at least writing everything down as we went along.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
yea they would help huge .. i think you should look back into making them... if i still had my sunfire i would... i was just looking for somthing for the little sisters ride we have pretty well frankensteind like my sunfire ahah so i thought this would help ...
i know it shows big improvements for the civics...
but how does it work for FWD cars?
The First Twin Charged jbody
blue car (R.I.P) - 240whp @7psi..
silver car - 305whp 315lbs.tq @15psi (91 Octane) or 420whp & 425lbs.TQ @20psi (94 octane+Alcohol Injection)
All dynos run on a Mustang dyno
For a J with a double bushing lower a-arm, I'd try poly bushings first.
Poly mounts for the engine, and an insert in the trans mount would be helpful also. Finally, I'd bump steer the car, then work on that to get it as close to zero for drag launches.
Hondas need them because of the double arm, single point inner mounting. The tires walk all over the place at launch., creating wheel hop, thus the bar to add bunch of rigidity to (triangulate) the lower arm. Look at the inner lower arm mount in your 1st pic, then look at your J lower a-arm. The J lower is inherently much more rigid. It's already a triangle.
Having said all that, if you did nothing to stiffen up the bushings (i.e. control movement of the lower control arms) on your car, a bar would probably help.
If you google around a bit, I'd think you'd find a Honda style traction bar is used to stop wheel hop, and really should be called an anti wheel hop bar.
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Project S-Bird
^^^ what he said.
That being said, I'll be making a set... and the geometry is all wrong according to what I've read on the bars pictured above.
Built, bottled, ready for 11s. 14.446@93.74mph, 1.848 60' N/A.
The purpose of the bars on the civics is to stop the lca from deflecting and causing wheelhop which results in broken axels and missed runs. We have a much better lca design and will not benifit nearly as much. "Traction bars" are also really popular on the srt4's which suffer from some unbelievable wheel hop. I'd have to crawl under one and see how their lca is set up. Personally I'd deal with the bushings/mounts first, then address excesive weight transfer. After that I'd consider building a set of these. It's about $200 in materials and if it helps a tiny bit it'd be worth it
I have the bushings, Koni Sport Kit, better tires, you name it and I still get wheel hop on occasion.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:I have the bushings, Koni Sport Kit, better tires, you name it and I still get wheel hop on occasion.
Time for better Control Arms....
Karo (Car Customs) wrote:Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:I have the bushings, Koni Sport Kit, better tires, you name it and I still get wheel hop on occasion.
Time for better Control Arms....
But no one makes any. I woulda gotten the RKS ones but those crack a lot I've noticed. Maybe the GA ones....?
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
at one point i remember seeing a different set of control arms for sale somewhere on the net... I'll have to do some searching to see if I could find them again... not sure on the quality of them... but I do remember seeing them! lol...
http://www.motortopia.com/cavyfreak442/cars
Best ET to Date: 14.251 @ 98.51 mph. 13's or Bust Baby!
I have some RK ones on our T/G drag car
(LCA that is)
those pics showing how the bars are mounted SUCK....... although I can tell one end is on the LCA, and the other on the frame.
Darren had a similure setup on his car, never did get pics of it.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:Karo (Car Customs) wrote:Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:I have the bushings, Koni Sport Kit, better tires, you name it and I still get wheel hop on occasion.
Time for better Control Arms....
But no one makes any. I woulda gotten the RKS ones but those crack a lot I've noticed. Maybe the GA ones....?
Take your stock ones... have all the seams TIG welded and put the pushings back in and your good to go... unless you want to make your own a arms...
Look in the phase 5 section of the GM build book. They keep it pretty basic for LCA prep.
GM uses a similar changes for Grand Am cup racing as well.
