If you look at my timeslips you can see i did quite a few runs tonight hot lapping it because $15/all you could race no lines for 3 hours so i took advantage of it.
The modifications I have done to my car
-Throttle body Spacer
-Venom? Intake
-Header
-Aftermarket High-flow cat
-Cat back (whole exhaust from header to tailpipe 2 1/4"
- thrush glass pack 26 inch
- removed rear seat
-removed any excess weight (tire iron, jack, stereo box, tools) except for spare (just didn't have enough time/space/desire to do it.
- Suspension coil-over KYB
- BF Goodrich 195/70/R14 on all four corners
Drive Fast Take Chances
http://billstclair.com/blog/images/fukitol.jpg
not bad. that spacer does nothing
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lol 18 second 1/4 mile ftw
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
The temps on the track were about 90 degrees and some of my friends with vehicles capable of 10.50s were running around 12.60 all day. No spin off the line obviously. Left under "foot brake" o and i do have a shift kit installed. the thing i noticed that hurt me the most was my 1st to 2nd gear shift it felt like redline was too high out of my power band i need to figure out how to lower the shift point because i dyno'd it before got a whopping 96
horses out of it before i did the header and cat. so its a daily driver and been that way for many years never meant to be full race car but thought i'd bring it out and see what it had. Let me know anyone who has these same mods done what a "normal" run for you is. Temp at track and everything.
Drive Fast Take Chances
http://billstclair.com/blog/images/fukitol.jpg
I highly doubt that high temps added over 2 secs to peoples e.t.'s
87 Firebird
All stock...........lol.
these guys are used to running in october november when then rent tracks its their daily driver this is the first time with these cars that they've run anything but 30-40 degree weather but i agree with you greatly that its hard to believe and im not making excuses i was just wondering how other people with similarly modded 2200s do
Drive Fast Take Chances
http://billstclair.com/blog/images/fukitol.jpg
any advice? like racing wise or tuning (if there is any) whether i should manually shift? reaction times need improvement/60' im just wondering where im loosing time if its all across the board meaning i need more power and how i can do that with a semi-limited budget that still gives reliability (i know theres no such thing as 100% cheap mod but just some overall help thanks guys
Drive Fast Take Chances
http://billstclair.com/blog/images/fukitol.jpg
My advice is if you want a quicker cav for cheap look for a 2003 base model cavy. It was the first year the ecotec engine came in the base model you could prolly pick one up for about 6,000. If you did payments you would be looking at roughly 140 bucks a month. You would have a newer car with more power to show for it instead of dumping large chunks of money into a worthless car.
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ur mod list doesn't make sense to me..
Quote:
-Throttle body Spacer
-Venom? Intake
-Header
-Aftermarket High-flow cat
-Cat back (whole exhaust from header to tailpipe 2 1/4"
- thrush glass pack 26 inch
- removed rear seat
-removed any excess weight (tire iron, jack, stereo box, tools) except for spare (just didn't have enough time/space/desire to do it.
- Suspension coil-over KYB
- BF Goodrich 195/70/R14 on all four corners
-throttle body spacers don't do anything. just because its free doesn't mean you should do it, take it off. it adds turbulence at the throttle body.
-you removed the tire iron, and the jack, but left the spare in the car? what're you gonna use to put it on, a swiss army knife? take it out.. its DEAD weight without the tools to put it on the car
Quote:
i was just wondering how other people with similarly modded 2200s do
not many would admit to racing one at the same level you are because its sort of embarrassing...
Quote:
any advice? like racing wise or tuning (if there is any) whether i should manually shift? reaction times need improvement/60' im just wondering where im loosing time if its all across the board meaning i need more power and how i can do that with a semi-limited budget that still gives reliability (i know theres no such thing as 100% cheap mod but just some overall help thanks guys
not really, no. the car is grossly underpowered. semi-limited budget with a less than optimal starting point = a slow car when you start, and a slow car when you finish. the only difference is you have less money at the end.
save the cash, don't waste your time. the only way to be even semi respectable e/t wise is to boost or spray the hell out of it and depending on the mileage and condition of the motor, it probably won't last long.
cheap and speed do not belong in the same sentence.
i've never taken either of my J's (both 2.2l OHV w/ 3 speed auto) down the track, but the previous owner of my sunfire took it down the 1/4 mile. 18.1 with I/H/E, motor mounts, and crank pulley.
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Roy Niemann wrote:im stuck getting a mechanical engineering degree so funds currently are low and im trying to look for a fix... without spraying/forced induction/high comp.
If you want to be a ME, get creative. As far as doing much without N2O, FI, or new pistons... probably not going to happen.
Built 94-97 head for sale: http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/47069/
Some of the JGM crew took my stock 2200 3spd 4dr to e-town one day to @!#$ around. First run was 18.7 @ 73 next run was 18.4 @74 last run was at 18.0 at 75. The last run was removing most the dead weight in the car including a headlight and taking out some tire air. Also did the runs with heavy ass 17's as well if i wouldve had the steelies on it probably couldve hit 17's with ease.
With the stuff you did to your car you shouldve been able to hit maybe low 17's. I was running basically bone stock no engine mods other than a intake.
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