So i ran my car at the strip last friday and the best time i could get was a 15.02 @ 91 MPH needless to say, i am pissed. I recently installed a 3.1", and controll arm bushings, to help with my launch. Now i was on street tires when i did launch hard all i did was spin, and i know that if i had drag radials on it and i could launch harder i would be in the 14's easy, but i was launching decently hard anyway feathering it. I mean i was beating alot of cars out of the hole. my 60's improved by .2 seconds. Before i had the control arm bushings i was at a 2.4 60' now i am 2.20. idealy my goal is to be 2.0 or 1.9. Im hoping i can get there with drag radials. The main problem i feel is my top end. Car pulls strong thourgh 1st and 2nd, but after that it just seems to taper off. It is the GM Reflash? i would like to scan my car and see what my IAT's are at because i have a feeling my intercooler is not functoing as good as it should and i have a new H/E pump on the way but OTTP says there on back order and ive been wating three weeks. If in theroy my h/e pump does not work and my iat are really high could that cause me to be this slow? I even let the car cool down for a hour after i got to the track to make sure it was not heat soaked. What can i do to increase my top end power. everyone was just passing me and walking away halfway down the track. WTF? i feel like with my mods i should be at least a 14.6 @ 93. could i be there with a better launch on drag radials? how much of a difference would having my mods with being HP tuned? When i get hp tuners i might get comp cams blower grind cams and valve springs. Because theres a guy on here that drives a sunfire i cant think of his name right now but he has those mods and runs a 13.8. i would love to be in the 13's but i know i should be in the 14's. things im going to try before the next time i go to the track are drag radials, redoing my H/E setup, and checking my plug gap because sometimes i get a misfire code in high RPMS in booost. i have NGK iridiums and never checked the gap just threw them in, but sometimes when im racing my check engine light flashes and it gets a P0300 but it didnt do it last time i was at the track and i havnt got that code in a while. Ugh am i missing anything, i just feel like all this frikin work and i am still only in the frikin 15's wtf!!!!! the damn car ran a 15.5 NATURALLY ASPIRATED! so i only picked up A GOD DAMN HALF SECOND with BOOST?! Almost feels like a complete waste so far. I want to be wrong, i want this thing to be fast. When i get my damn truck running, im either going to go with a built turbo setup or selling this picece. I still want to see what it can do with the S/C setup on a HP tune and Cams. with a working h/e.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, August 22, 2010 9:36 AM
CarDomain http://www.cardomain.com/id/TMald123
this
Quote:
Now i was on street tires when i did launch hard all i did was spin
and if you are not tuned, or added stuff after getting tuned. get it tuned again
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
The launch just takes practice and you should probably seen 2.0 on street tires, not going to bet much better than that but your traps should be highert. Even with the same setup I was trapping 97-98 with the stock 3.4" pulley and over 100 with the 3.0, I didn't have the reflash but I can't see it being that conservative. Are you sure the heat exchanger setup is hooked up right? If you have power hooked up backwards to the pump, it will run in reverse and not do you much good, especially since you have the dual pass setup.
Do you have a boost gauge setup? How many PSI are you seeing?
12.770 @ 111.99 Intercooled Eaton M62
i have a boost gauge and with the 3.1" im seeing 9 lbs. kinda wired because i thought people usually see 12 lbs minimum with the 3.1" o and with the stock 3.4," i was seeing only 7 lbs. i will have to check on the power to the intercooler pump because it dosnt seem to move much fluid at all the way i have it hooked up i didnt think about if the power was ran backwards thats a great idea. Im pretty sure i have my h/e hoses run right i just kinda used common sence. Boost pressure dosnt sound right to you thou does it, i dont know why it could be low.
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Pressure seems a little low, some people see 12psi on the stock pulley however that's without the intercooler setup hooked up which will drop the pressure as the air is denser. With the stock pulley I saw about 9-10 psi and with the 3.0 I was between 12 -13. Could be the gauge too, I've seen that be off also. I would check the bypass valve, if you're not making the proper boost that's the most likely culprit. It should be adjusted so when it's at 0 vac or in vacuum it is fully closed.
The intercooler hoses look to be hooked up right, I had the dual pass which while it may seem to be common sense you can set it up multiple ways depending on how you had the cores set, they're directional. I've changed it a couple of times however after the last change (with my icebox) I think you're diagram is right. If the hoses I gave you went from the pump and split into two and hooked up to the top and bottom fittings on the intercooler it's setup right. The setup should flow a ton of fluid really and if it's not, the power to the pump is probably hooked up backwards. Easiest way to check would be disconnect the line from the heat exchanger coming directly from the pump. Turn the pump on and the fluid should pour out rapidly. Another way to check is... the plug for the pump I believe had a black and white/cream colored wires. I ran the black as ground and the white/cream as power.
Good luck, let me know what you find out.
12.770 @ 111.99 Intercooled Eaton M62
pump should go to the bottom of the front heat exchanger. the way you have it setup you likely have air in the h/e that never bled out.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
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I have my pump between my H/E and manifold. Also im only seeing 10psi with a 3.1" pulley according to my Autometer Sport-Comp gauge.
its an old concept. time for something new to take the reigns. - Z yaaaa
i'm seeing around 10-11 psi at 7k on the 3.1 on my sedan.
I'm running the 2.2 eco with the GM charger. Stock pulley, ZZP S3 H/E, Header and full exhaust. Short throat. Some minimal weight reduction. Bridgestone Potenza street tires. I just ran a 14.613@96.18. I lower my tire pressure to 25 in the front. Temperature is usually warm since it's summer in FL so I know my intake temps are scorching. I never launch higher than 2,000 RPMS and usually that's too much. I need those control arm bushings by RK sport. Remember R/T doesn't matter so on that third yellow, take a deep breath and GO!
Even if the light turns green, make sure your ready before you go. Who cares about the car beside you. I run my friend each time and I know his car is faster so it helps me to stay calm. lol. Doon't feel to bad. He's got the 2.0 Turbocharged Cobalt with the stage one GM kit, stock street tires, exhaust, and intercooler piping. Hes sitting at around 300 HP and 350 TQ. His best time is a 14.2.
Brian Toney wrote:Even if the light turns green, make sure your ready before you go. Who cares about the car beside you. I run my friend each time and I know his car is faster so it helps me to stay calm. lol. Doon't feel to bad. He's got the 2.0 Turbocharged Cobalt with the stage one GM kit, stock street tires, exhaust, and intercooler piping. Hes sitting at around 300 HP and 350 TQ. His best time is a 14.2.
Hes sitting nowhere near 300 HP and 350 TQ.... 14.2 is pathetic for an SS/TC.... He should have not wasted his money on the stage 1 Bullsh!t and got a real tune....
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
QWK LN2 (needs an @ss whoopin) wrote:Brian Toney wrote:Even if the light turns green, make sure your ready before you go. Who cares about the car beside you. I run my friend each time and I know his car is faster so it helps me to stay calm. lol. Doon't feel to bad. He's got the 2.0 Turbocharged Cobalt with the stage one GM kit, stock street tires, exhaust, and intercooler piping. Hes sitting at around 300 HP and 350 TQ. His best time is a 14.2.
Hes sitting nowhere near 300 HP and 350 TQ.... 14.2 is pathetic for an SS/TC.... He should have not wasted his money on the stage 1 Bullsh!t and got a real tune....
just remember the old saying, "ET is for the driver, Trap Speed is for the engine builder."
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
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WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
The stage one upgrade alone brings it up to 290 HP and 340 TQ. Unless GM is misinforming us.His 60 foots are HORRIBLE. The TC cobalt is supposed to run a 13.9 stock. so tell me. whats a real tune Mr. 421 HP?
Brian Toney wrote:The stage one upgrade alone brings it up to 290 HP and 340 TQ. Unless GM is misinforming us.His 60 foots are HORRIBLE. The TC cobalt is supposed to run a 13.9 stock. so tell me. whats a real tune Mr. 421 HP?
GM rates the Stage 1 kit at 280HP @ 4,700 RPM--320 lb,-ft of torque @ 4,300 RPM. The 290/340 are the numbers they list are for the Solstice/Sky, and the TQ is even lower on the HHR. Please keep in mind, these are at the crank, not the wheels. As for what a "real tune" is, talk to some of my customers. Lets just say i was making more WHP and WTQ then GM is claiming BHP before they even came out with their sh!tty stage 1 . I have had many customers come to me after wasting way too much money on the Stage 1 Kit and then getting bus lengths put on them by a completely stock car(minus my tune).
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
pfft..as if this ^ newb knows anything about tuning.
/end sacrcasm
^^ lol at the above comment
and I was gonna say it's that dinky supercharger (MP45) you have but then I check and it was the MP62...
Your trap speeds don't look high enough to run much quicker tho.
What kind of tune do you have? How much power are you putting down?
In all seriousness you should be able to run a mid to low 13 with some half decent tires.
Your car should make what? 210-220hp to the tires? Thats way more than enough to get well into the 13's.
Keep practicing, lots and lots of practice.....no one is a drag racing hero the first day at the track.
Slicks + 6000rpm launch = 13's all day on your set-up.
dude look at what me and Newt run n/a, with your mods easily 13s, its a driver error, your car either not tuned properly or your needing practice all my times are on street tires and Im pretty sure you have more ponies then me and newt, just get more bench time, and better tune
"As I lay rubber down the street, I pray for traction I can keep, but if I spin and begin to slide, please dear God protect my ride." -Amen
