Okay so here's the deal:
engine
Hahn turbo kit mitsu. 20g intercooled
-want to increase(decrease) spool time... currently around 3500 would love 2k
Stock cat back, 2.5" downpipe
-going 3" cat-back over winter -- need a cheap, quiet, good flowing muffler. That, or a cut-out?
Comp cams turbo grind possibly going in over winter.
tires
Currently Kumho Ecsta LE Sport
Saving for Hancook RS-3's
Suspension
Koni yellow sport kit
Strut braces
-Keeping it through next season as it is -- maybe a rear sway bar?
Brakes
Stock
-Neon rear disc swap going on.
-Front staying stock, Hawk pads or Red stuff
NWF swap IS a possibility... IF there's money for it
This is the most realistic scenario for next season on my budget. I need some awesome budget oriented advice on mods to put me up with the cars that have 15 seconds on me. I know practice and skill, but in the grand scheme of things, they would have 8 seconds, not 15 with the same exact car.
The most expensive thing is my turbo spool time. Everything else I already have (neon rears), or is cheap (pads, exhaust piping)
I'm all for a new smaller turbo, but that's going to run $500-700. I'd be down with changing out housings or turbines, I just have no clue when it comes to turbo science. (budget for actual turbo is more around 150-200, $300 max)
Tires are set in stone on RS-3's
Open to all suggestions. I am willing to fabricate custom suspension if I have to... on a budget :p
What am I missing, what simple things can I do?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, September 18, 2012 8:17 PM
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Well people want to upgrade to a 20g so I'm sure you could find another hahn kit user that wll trade you plus a little cash maybe. As far as mods go for auto-x Helping keep unsprung weight down will help with handling. Look into aluminum lowwer control arms and go with n body spindles....or run jbody spindles. I'd also recomend. K brace for the front subframe as it will make a noticable difference. That's about all I can think of on the cheap.
I was reading your thread about using the n-body knuckles with j-body hubs. I think it ended at 2 solutions, either a 400 machine job and adapter, or a custom spindle.
But an aluminum LCA would be beneficial? If I used the LCA would the ball joint have to be swapped If I swapped to N-body spindles down the road? I know you were set on your rims, but I wouldn't mind running dual pattern. The only thing that makes me not want to do that whole swap is the bigger center hole, and the hybrid axles you need. I think it was mentioned a 99 manual something's axles would work without modification?
And I keep on hearing about a K brace, but I have no clue what that is. Do you happen to have a link to a build thread or the like?
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Tuesday, September 18, 2012 8:24 PM
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
skip the big brakes... they are not needed unless you are running long high speed autox courses. a GOOD set of pads and rotors will go a long way. sway bars are definetely worth the money as is a lightweight set of wheels/better tires.
a little negative camber goes a long way too.
as for what you NEED to do, have one of the faster guys take your car for a spin (if your region allows) and see how much faster the car can truly be. I'm betting that 15 second gap isn't as unrealistic as you think. it's your first time and you are running against guys that have likely spent years perfecting their driving and car setup.
I did let an 'instructor' take my car around the track, and he ended up having 5 seconds on my best run, so I was estimating that he would've had 8 seconds if he had more runs. I know the car is already faster as it is, and I'm always working on my driving technique... but I need something to do in the off season :p
Agreed that brakes are not needed, My $90 pad/rotor setup worked just fine, but they faded at the finish for the instructor and he slid through the finish line turn. haha.
Running -1.5 camber right now.
So some lightweight rims on RS-3's, rear sway bar is looking like a plus, but I think the Eibach front is +1mm bigger than stock for an 04 manual.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
I had aluminum lca's on my cav t one point and they made a noticableThe best difference when turning, as the car felt more responsive. If you run j knuckles you need jbody ball joints...if you go n body...then you need n body ball joints. You can run stock axles, but you may need camber plates to get the alignment in spec or you could slot the strut tower.
The best stock sized brake setup I had way ebc yellow pads, and black dash rotors with russel stainless braided lines on all four corners. I never had brake fade with that setup. Also. Go to turbotechracing and look under suspension To see the k brace they make. I had that one and liked it a lot.
Which auto course are you running at?
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Going into a class with a once N/A car into a factory turbo car class, good luck, they have the option to upgrade their factory turbo cars. You will just be playing catch up. Thats why i dont do it competative anymore. I do it just for fun because my car is still so far behind them.
Eric when you go again can you get a hold of me? I would love to come down to watch if nothing else.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
That's the point... to play catch up and have a seemingly unreachable goal that I'll constantly be dumping money and time into.
-MD- , The next one is October 7th and then the 14th and that's it for the season.
http://noraracing.net/
I'll be there both Sundays, so just let me know if you're going and we can pre-game at my house... just kidding (don't drink and autocross!... and registration closes at 9)
If you take the time to go up there, give em the $47 and you'll have so much fun... plus you get cool pictures taken of you!
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, September 19, 2012 7:00 AM
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
so figure 5-8 seconds faster than you in your own car... given more familiarity
a good set of tires will easily net you a few seconds (which will vary depending on how performance oriented your tires are now) you can also run slicks in SM so you could see an even bigger improvement depending on how far you want to go.
vince... SMF is the best way to go. that eliminates your awd and rwd cars.
If i built a car solely for auto-x i wouldnt build it for the SM class and it wouldnt be a cavalier.
With that said take a look at my suspension upgrades in my profile. Those helped the handling out tremendously. I love the way the car handles now. Im pretty sure my car is on par to equal/beat Strat's(he won our region's SM class last year), but sadly my driving ability isnt there yet.
Tinkles(KGM) wrote:If i built a car solely for auto-x i wouldnt build it for the SM class and it wouldnt be a cavalier.
With that said take a look at my suspension upgrades in my profile. Those helped the handling out tremendously. I love the way the car handles now. Im pretty sure my car is on par to equal/beat Strat's(he won our region's SM class last year), but sadly my driving ability isnt there yet.
Well I was in a really bad accident (for the car, not me) last night and it looks like insurance might total the car, so I may just do that haha.
Sucks... right before this weekend too. I was planning on going to norwalk for like 2 months, then bam my ex's crazy boyfriends decides to chase me around and ram my car then start beating the hell out of it with a baseball bat. Needless to say, I got the hell out of there.... only for him to follow me and cut me off at a red light. I saw his door swing open, checked the other side of the road for traffic and then I took off... along with his driver door and half my fender. Crazy
The car still runs and drives 100%, its all body work... so if I can total it and keep the car, it's my new race car, albeit and ugly race car haha.
I roll on steelies. Work-in-progress daily-sleeper potential.
http://www.j-body.org/classifieds/engine/60493/
Tinkles(KGM) wrote:If i built a car solely for auto-x i wouldnt build it for the SM class and it wouldnt be a cavalier.
With that said take a look at my suspension upgrades in my profile. Those helped the handling out tremendously. I love the way the car handles now. Im pretty sure my car is on par to equal/beat Strat's(he won our region's SM class last year), but sadly my driving ability isnt there yet.
You're still short an lsd buddy... unless its a longer straight course where you can put that harrop to use
To the op... better seats make a Big difference too a you can focus on driving the car instead of holding on for dear life
Eric- we need pics of said damage
I did not get time to post on this, but was going to say SS brake lines will help on that brake fade.
FU Tuning
I reccomend the Yellow Stuff or Hawk HP+ with slotted rotors, I think Reds may not heat up quick enough. I still run drummies in the rear w/Carbotec shoes. Def. the K-Brace and rear sway. I saw Overkill mentioning an adjustable rear bar which would be nice. My Corbeau seat went a long way as well as my 4-point. Running SMF I'd put a set of R-Comps on there to be really competitive and an LSD to get the power down and pull you out of the corners. For sure put some more camber on the front; plates, crash bolts, slotting, ect.. and shim the rears or slot em. But for sure, the driver is the biggest and cheapest mod you can do! Go to an EVO school if there's one around your area. You will get a ton of seat time and instruction from national champs. I've been lucky enough to have Andy Hollis, a multi-time national champion in FWD cars as my instructor several times. Work on your left-foot braking and trail braking. This will help you keep the boost where you need it. I've noticed that our cars prefer late-apexing on most courses I've seen. Get through the corner, "unwind" the wheel quickly and get pointed straight! Hope the damage isn't killer and good luck. Maybe I'll see you at a National event next year?
