I've been around here for years but don't post much. How ever I finished my v6 swap a few months ago and went to the track Saturday to see what it would do. I was pretty happy for not really trying.
Mod List:
Car:
99 Base model se sunfire that started life as a auto
Engine:
05 Grand Am Gt 3400 that started with 84k supposably where if true almost a 100k
05 Grand Am Pcm tuned with hptuners some (Mainly the 5speed stuff and tourqe management)
Piggybacked off of a 97z harness and pcm
Full Grand Am Gt modified Cai
2.5 in exhaust off the stock Grand am Gt downpipe into a thrush glasspack and to a magnaflow fbody single in dual outlet motor.
Stock upper jbody mount with poly filled lower stock
Grand am gt dual fans with full a/c
Transmission:
02 2200 Getrag
Poly filled stock mounts
Stage 2 ebay clutch (Yea I know I needed the slave but works fine)
Stock left axle and junk advance right)
Suspension:
99 aluminum modded control arms
97 vert strut brace
Tokico Blues
Eibach Pro's
Addco 1in front and rear sway bars
17in adr's with 215/45 r17 nexxen n3000's
Should be pretty much it, my gas gauge hasn't worked for years so I just go off mileage. Where in the runs according to what it took me to fill it up it had around 9 to 10 gallons of fuel so like a half/ 3/4's of a tank. I also had no tach so was going off sound when to shift. I also went with my buddy with his srt4 where he broke so only got 3 runs in.
First run sucked with a 15.4@94 spinning through 1st and 2nd not hooking till I shifted into 3rd.
Buddy's srt4 not flooring it till the top of 3rd (Street tires, lsd and hooks like @!#$) 13.7@102
2nd run was the best how ever I still spun through 1st and some of 2nd. Along with let off on the speedo around 95 due pulling to the left and vibrating (Stupid axles) 14.5@basically96 buddy decided he was going to go for broke. Needless to say broke loose and then well a whopping 16@102
3rd run just sucked, heated up the tires more. Took off and hooked pretty hard for street tires and it pops out of 1st so I just babied it. Buddy snapped a axle in half so there went the rest of the time to run.
Time slip of the 14.5
The only difference of the 15.4 was a 60ft of 2.7 and a rt of .198 off my head. Rest I'm not of right off but it has a little more in it but not sure how much. Thinking it should hit 13's with a tach, less gas and a little better traction. Also figure out my knock retard issue where I had to turn the timing down from stock, I assume the pump with a 160k on it is dieing but haven't checked it really.
Well that didn't work for the vid's lets try this lol
1st run
Buddy's 1st run
2nd run
3rd run
I bet its a lot of fun to drive. V6 exhaust note from a sunfire would be pretty cool as well.
2004 Cavalier. Razzi. (Sold)
1998 Corvette. Some mods.
1992 Typhoon. Lots of mods.
1994 Civic VX 44MPG
To be honest it seems as quick at the 2.4 swap it had did. I've also played with timing a hell of a lot due to it pulling timing. I've also assumed the pump is on it's last leg. As since I have had it the gas gauge hasn't worked. Where that would be because a girl's ex boyfriend dumping water and god knows what else in the tank. So with a 163k on the pump and a metal tank. I could beg to wonder what it looks like inside, though I have kept up on filter changes. I need to hook up the fuel pressure gauge to be sure but my pe a/f went from steady to all over sometimes for some reason.
As for how it sounds here is a few vids of it I did the other night.
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/JnH3Lr7SnwA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
<iframe width="560" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/ixHQyk09oyE" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
The drive by one is from a dig and was 3rd when I went by.
Man I got to remember how to post youtube vid's here lol. Lets try it this way:
Nice. I'm at 15,.03, though I've got the 3.58FDR in mine. Dunno if that sucks up a whole half second though.
I've questioned my fuel pump as well, it's got about the same mileage as yours does. Mine engine feels like it starts bogging out from about 6000rpm to 6250 when it hits the rev limit. So, I just turned my rev limiter down to 5900.
Sucks not having a tach though, doesn't it?
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
Thought about it but probably going to do cam, ported heads, ported upper and lower intake. As that should put my I figure in the mid 200's plus I would have a mini me to match my f-body
Then if it still isn't fast enough for my dd it will get a little gogo juice. As for the half a sec it honestly doesn't feel that quick, not sure why but it doesn't. I assume it is the power curve and how it comes on smooth for the most part though. The getrag is a 3.94 fdr or something like that isn't it? I don't know how your first gear is geared compared to me but if 1st gear a bit higher I think it may be quicker as 1st is useless. When it decides to hook it bangs the rev limiter pretty quick, if it spins it hits the limiter. Where I don't know what it is but everytime it does it I get a lean bog of some sorts and timing goes down if I remember right.
Like if you watch my speedo when I grabbed 4th in the vid it did the stupid bogging crap and I let off to about half pedal then punched it. That is the reason you see the speedo go slow then pick up. Seems to do it if I hit the limiter or if I dump it to hard in gear changes. Where tourqe management and all the good stuff is turned off in hptuners. Though if like the other tables that need messed with to get it to drive like a 5 speed car, I will probably have to play in tinytuner to find it. Also isn't the rev limiter stock on the 3.4 right at or under 6k? I want to say it is 59xx with out looking at a stock bin file. I upped my fuel cut to 6200 then have it pulling timing at 6000 to keep it off the fuel cut to stay away from the bog it does. How ever I get valve float at like 6300, mine also quits pulling/making power it seems right around 5k. In the 3rd or up it seems to take for ever to get to 6k from 5k.
As for no tach it sucks, well sort of the 3400 doesn't sound nothing like the ld9. On solid mounts it is smoother then the ld9 and rev's faster so it is hard to tell by feel or sound where it is at. Though doing the vid run or running it through the 1/4 I've got pretty good at guessing close to where I want to shift at. As right around 5500 the intake roars like no other, the vids don't do it justice for how loud it really is. I will say this much that it puts the ho intake, tb and cai to shame that was on the ld9
It also pisses the honda fools off when I tell them my vtec is louder than their vtec
Also back to the fuel issue, I had to put a new regulator on it as it busted where it seams together. Where I hooked my fuel pressure gauge to it to make sure it was in spec. Which off not running and running was good. With the vacuum line off and blimping the throttle it would drop. Not sure what it does driving but I figure the same thing (Need to hook my sending unit up one great day). Another thing sho do you know how the ld9 picks up a tach signal? I first thought it was icm/coil wire though no matter what way they were hooked up would the tach flinch. It wouldn't get the signal from the cps by any chance would it?
Ehh nvm about the tach wiring for the tach, I looked over it again and will play with it a bit more maybe later.
I'm not sure what wire it picks up with on the LD9. Here's how I believe the operation works though. The CKP is sending a signal to the ICM. Then the ICM is sending the signal to the PCM. The PCM then sends the info via datastream down to the cluster, which turns the tach needle.
I don't know if the PCM can read the CKP raw. Never tried. Worth a shot though.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
Well I was thinking the ckp went to the pcm then from there to fire the icm. How ever it doesn't look to be the case even though the 3400 has two and the one does go to the pcm. I assume based on the following pictures that the ckp goes straight to the icm.
So with the above I assume the pcm gets its rpm across the ref sig and low ref sig. Or in other words the purple/white and the red/black, I'm pretty sure I tried all the wires trying to get it to work. How ever the radiator cracked on the left side end tank finally and need to fix it. So when I do I will give them two a shot again, then see what happens for the tach. I would like to see it just flinch as it is annoying seeing it not move.
not bad honestly.... id say with some good tires that net you a 1.8 60 foot and some more practice it's a 13 second car on a good fall night right as it sits.
with mods the 3x00s are NASTY n/a. iirc there is one guy with a second gen z24 running mid 12s n/a with his.
It's nice to be injected but I love being blown.
Yea I was a bit surprised to see a 14, I was hoping for a 15 to high 14. It was like 60 degrees or so that day so it was cool. The last run when it popped out of gear would have pulled a better 60 ft. I'm guessing it would have been close to a 2.0, though just a guess. If I had a tach I could launch it a bit better as the 2.2 was launching really right off idle, the last run was probably 1500 or so. So with a tach, staying in gear and a 1/4 tank of gas I could see it pulling a 2.0 60ft with hitting low 14's. I may pick up a set of slicks but it won't be going on the stock jbody axles. I've already snapped a left one right off at the wheel, and the driverside I get a few hard launches and it will start thumping. Where it won't happen until the rest of the nbody setup is done. Till then the most it will see is drag radials, also I was run 35psi in the all 4 at the track.
[*] Spring time I am planning to swap the rest of the front end for the n-body stuff (Jbody brakes blow and for some reason the brakes have got worse over the years. In the rain it really will not stop and above 55 it won't either. I thought it was the master cylinder or brake booster. So switched the master when I did the swap, new rotors/pads and then the booster is holding vaccum). I'm also tired of eating wheel bearings and axles.
[*] Pick up a new clutch, I don't think I mentioned it but the cheap as f1racing clutch blew apart on me a few weeks. Where it nearly took the tranny and was slipping the whole time. So now I am on stock exedy but it is actually holding fine.
[*] Cam swap with ported heads, lower intake, upper intake. It actually has the lower ported and the original upper was ported as well but cracked. I built the motor in my t/a and did all the porting which I plan to do with this. Swap the tb out as well.
[*] Then headers with true 2.5 down pipe to match the rest of the exhaust.
It should be in the 13's then and I will be happy for a daily driver. I don't plan to make it a race car or shoot for the fastest time ever in it. To be honest it isn't very practical to me and is really my beater. The 12's and below is for my other toys, where my procharged trans am when it was doing 440 at the wheels when I got it was running 12's all day on nitto's. With the built 391 it never made it to the track but did 543 on the rollers at 4psi. Since I got screwed over that motor planning a turbo lq9 swap to push the bar to where I originally wanted it.
I just picked up a 3.5l Aurora Throttle Body if you're interested. WOT tech sells the adapter. I think they're 65 MM.
