So who's making their list and checking it twice (a day for me)

I'm planning to bypass some of the local events in order to attend more ProSolos and National Tour events. I've already informed work and home that I'll be attending Nationals next year in Topeka.

Car plans:

First off, I need another daily driver. Crapalier will be inching in on 97000 by months end. Want to rest the car before it become 'tired'. I certainly would like to be able to trailer it but I don't see that happening in '05 unless I pick up a co-driver with that capability.

'05 Change list:

Suspension:
Revalved and shortened Koni's
Higher spring rates for the G/C's
Any bushing I can replace with something better.
Trans mounts (should they be legal next year, which is likely)
Lower ride height
New cornerweight
More negative camber all the way around. Toe will remain the same.

Wheels:
Not totally decided. Probably a 16x7.5 wheel. Possible experiment with 17x7.5s. Anyone know of other lightweight 16x*7.5* wheels besides the SSRs? Tires - Azenis. Just hoping a 225/45/16 comes out.

Brakes:
New shoes (likely to be special order)
New drums and other hardware

Engine:
I'd like to get a Apex'i AFC and get on a dyno.
Catback exhaust (undecided to size of pipe and whether it'll be custom or pre-made)
4-2-1 Header....yet I hear more horror stories about headers....

Misc:
Lightweight battery, relocated to trunk
Removal of A/C (if I can trailer)
15lbs seats - Sparco perhaps

Driver:
Attendance at at least one Evolution school.

*disclaimer* This list may be changed at anytime and does not reflect what may suit your needs.


<br>

Lightweight honDuhs can kiss my fat Crapalier a$$
A new autoX ride for '08.....

I started a list too (not necessarily in this order, and not all necessarily for autox)-

New set of tires (Victos)
5 speed swap
Rear discs
Coilovers, or at least stiffer springs

I may hit up Topeka next year, but just to watch, so maybe I'll see you there. I'll be at the national convention in Jan, plus I may run a few events with Kansas region next year as well as my regular MoHud season. I'm running with the top guys in the region this year, so I'm gnna give it another year before I start running divisional events (N East division is EXTREMELY competitive)
<br>

lots of suspension work. lol in the next week or 2 koni yellows and coil overs of lowering springs, and rear addco bar and some falkins or MX's

and Sean let me know when the driving school is because that's what i need. you on the other hand sure! lol can we say instructor <br>

see ya!

Now I will be hated.

Since I am moving back to Europe next year Cavalier will stay here with my gf, parts are being sold as we speak and if raced it will be in HS... fat stickies though.

But... Back home, my dad, who is a rally freak has a new modified STi with FMIC and all kinds of sick stuff that he wants to try in hill climbs. Soooo... I guess I don`t have any choice but start doing some hillclimbs then

muahahhahahaha <br>



CAC2004 FSS#1, 2003,2004 Atlantic FSP #1, 2004 Overall Atlantic #1

Honestly, I havnt thought about next season I want to buy a miata of some sort. Then i guess my plans will be glued to that thing.. Other wise keep runnin FSP in the civic and make it to Nats in 05. <br>

AIRPLANE SHANE
Mazda Rev It Up Atlanta Champion '03
#118 H2 98 Honda Civic DX
http://teamlovely.shutterfly.com
89Z24 conv. island cruiser

Hopefully I can save up enough to buy myself some AGX's this Chirstmas. My girl will be pissed, but thats what she gets for being with a guy who loves racin'. <br>

Shane wrote:Honestly, I havnt thought about next season I want to buy a miata of some sort. Then i guess my plans will be glued to that thing.. Other wise keep runnin FSP in the civic and make it to Nats in 05.

The current CS Miata's that are getting moved to ES would be an excellent choice.

I want to see that FSP civic at a Pro or Tour event next year. Perhaps you'll need a co-driver at the Atlanta Pro?

Zach wrote:Hopefully I can save up enough to buy myself some AGX's this Chirstmas. My girl will be pissed, but thats what she gets for being with a guy who loves racin'.

BAH! This is where birthday's and X-Mas comes into play. Have her buy you 1, your parents buy you 2...and you get the 4th....or a favorite uncle, g'ma, whomever.

On topic:
Anyone happen to have access to the real factory service manual?? I need to know, for certain, that it says rear shims are approved to adjust rear camber and toe. I recall a tech telling me that's how they would do it, but it needs to be in the manual.
<br>

Lightweight honDuhs can kiss my fat Crapalier a$$
A new autoX ride for '08.....

Edit:
Attendance at more regional events would be cool.

I'll think about topeka. (Maybe talking Sean into a codriver? A z24 with all the right mods would make for a very fun weekend... )

Learn how to drive. <br>

Buy a membership

definatley tires

upgraded front and rear sway bars would be nice

a good set of front and back upper strut braces

ground controls and koni yellows would be great!

A few more ponies wouldnt hurt my times from what I can tell either

Yeah I'll keep buying those lotto tickets

Oh and I got one of the last 3 2004 rulebooks from our region that they gave away first come first serve on Sunday - w00t w00t




<br>

<img src=http://users.igl.net/vinnie/pics/bendin.jpeg>

<a href=http://www.cardomain.com/id/l3rutus target=http://www.cardomain.com/id/l3rutus>My 2k3 cavalier</a> | <a href=http://www.nrscca.com>Nebraska Region SCCA</a>

I'm looking at selling the fire and going 05' Mini Cooper S with LSD <br>

-Chris

IamRascal wrote:I'm looking at selling the fire and going 05' Mini Cooper S with LSD

Someone wants to win GS. Mind you, I'd guess the car will end up in DS after '05. I think it'd make a great STX car though...and actually if I could buy a new car for autocross, I'd buy the same thing.
<br>

Lightweight honDuhs can kiss my fat Crapalier a$$
A new autoX ride for '08.....

For the topic of rear wheel alignment, from Factory Service Book 1 SECTION 3A-4:
REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Rear wheel alignment is not adjustable. If the camber and toe angles are not within the specifications, inspect for underbody or rear suspension damage. See SECTION 10-3 which lists measurement points to determine proper underbody alignment.

Are you positive that the extra camber is needed? I guess my question is, if you adjust the camber to get a greater footprint on the outside rear tire during a corner is the inside tire actually getting less than it was before the camber adjustment? Wouldn't the solution to your problem be to find a way to stop the camber change around corners like a swaybar tie rod(though not legal in street prepared)? instead of adjusting for it? because adjusting the camber so your outside tire has the footprint you want while the axlebeam flexes because then you sacrifice the inside tire's footprint?? so you'd still have the axle flex and be in the same boat you started in?
Just a thought? I'm not really having rear traction problems so I haven't really thought much about changing the rear an more than I have already.

he wants to know it in the service manual it states that you can use shims to correct a out of spec rear alignment. <br>

see ya!

I'm confused... How does the tie rod prevent camber changes? I thought it just kept the distance between the beams the same, thus adding to some oversteer.

I would think the inside rear tire's footprint is not really of much concern. Mine comes up off the ground all the time. <br>

jonnyonwheels wrote:For the topic of rear wheel alignment, from Factory Service Book 1 SECTION 3A-4:
REAR WHEEL ALIGNMENT
Rear wheel alignment is not adjustable. If the camber and toe angles are not within the specifications, inspect for underbody or rear suspension damage. See SECTION 10-3 which lists measurement points to determine proper underbody alignment.

Are you positive that the extra camber is needed? I guess my question is, if you adjust the camber to get a greater footprint on the outside rear tire during a corner is the inside tire actually getting less than it was before the camber adjustment? Wouldn't the solution to your problem be to find a way to stop the camber change around corners like a swaybar tie rod(though not legal in street prepared)? instead of adjusting for it? because adjusting the camber so your outside tire has the footprint you want while the axlebeam flexes because then you sacrifice the inside tire's footprint?? so you'd still have the axle flex and be in the same boat you started in?
Just a thought? I'm not really having rear traction problems so I haven't really thought much about changing the rear an more than I have already.

Well this is certainly interesting now. Thanks jonny for posting that. Does it goes on to say that if the alignment is out of specs, it is factory approved to use shims to correct?? What does it say to do about rear alignment when you have to change a rear strut mount and/or strut? I certainly hope it says shims are approved for use otherwise I've got to find a new autocross car.

And I'm positive the extra camber is needed....even more so, the correct toe settings. Example: Descending radius sweeper. Lack of rear camber and you'll end up with positive outside rear wheel camber, resulting in greater roll over on the tire and the chances of the car spinning out becomes much greater. Simply put, you lose stability and traction.

novaracer wrote:he wants to know it in the service manual it states that you can use shims to correct a out of spec rear alignment.

exactly!

Zach wrote:
I would think the inside rear tire's footprint is not really of much concern. Mine comes up off the ground all the time.

4 tires providing traction is better than 3. That's mostly due to a soft front suspension, though other factors influence that also.
<br>

Lightweight honDuhs can kiss my fat Crapalier a$$
A new autoX ride for '08.....

I posted the entire section right out of the book. That's all it says for rear alignment, and no more. I gather from that paragraph that if it is out of alignment then you'd need to replace the rear axlebeam or address the possibility of the unibody itself being tweaked. Is your car's rear end out of alignment or are you looking to set it up for racing? Obviously GM believes that the alignment is always correct and if it isn't then you need to replace parts not adjust them. Are you looking for a way to adjust it and stay within warranty or something?

This is definately not good news.

SCCA Rulebook, Section 13.8

' --->IF<--- authorized by the manufacturer, the use of shims, special bolts....are allowed and the resulting alignment settings are permitted even if outside the normal specifications or range rec'd by the manufacturer. "

If it doesn't say it in the factory service manual that shims are allowed, I can't legally change my rear alignment aside from whatever changes result from other modifcations (lowering, bushings, etc.)

STS allows bolts even without manufacturer authorization, but it does not specifically allow shims...therefore they would be illegal.

As a result, I need to very throughly go through the manual to find anything that suggests shims can be used. Otherwise, I'm done with the Crapalier for autocross as it would be illegal and I'm not dealing with not being able to set my rear alignment. It would produce a great disadvantage.

*sigh*

<br>

Lightweight honDuhs can kiss my fat Crapalier a$$
A new autoX ride for '08.....

Also, if they are allowed in any issued TSB, then they would be legal. So time to search the TSBs too.
<br>

Lightweight honDuhs can kiss my fat Crapalier a$$
A new autoX ride for '08.....

Is it sad that I lost sleep over this issue last night?
<br>

Lightweight honDuhs can kiss my fat Crapalier a$$
A new autoX ride for '08.....

hey i cannot go this weekend may grandmother passed this weekend. and i have to be there for my dad.he is tough on the out side but i know better. anyway good luck and kick a$$ like you always do
and don't loose any-sleep over it. if the rabbit guys have been doing it then i would not worry about us <br>

see ya!

AutoXFool wrote:

IamRascal wrote:I'm looking at selling the fire and going 05' Mini Cooper S with LSD

Someone wants to win GS. Mind you, I'd guess the car will end up in DS after '05. I think it'd make a great STX car though...and actually if I could buy a new car for autocross, I'd buy the same thing.

My thoughts exactly. If it stays in GS, I'll just get SSR Comps and some a032r's (hooked on yokohama now

if they move it to DS I'll see how my times are compared to DS at that time. Otherwise STX is a good excuse to mod it out and there really competitive in there <br>

-Chris

IamRascal wrote:

AutoXFool wrote:

IamRascal wrote:I'm looking at selling the fire and going 05' Mini Cooper S with LSD

Someone wants to win GS. Mind you, I'd guess the car will end up in DS after '05. I think it'd make a great STX car though...and actually if I could buy a new car for autocross, I'd buy the same thing.

My thoughts exactly. If it stays in GS, I'll just get SSR Comps and some a032r's (hooked on yokohama now

if they move it to DS I'll see how my times are compared to DS at that time. Otherwise STX is a good excuse to mod it out and there really competitive in there

just a thought i replaced struts and i found that my rear struts were blown anyway i replaced them with agx's and wow! it is a totally different car. it changes direction a lot faster now depending on the settings; and it is not laying on the bump stops anymore and with better shocks it stops a lot better in dry and wet. in other words the stock struts are junk. mine had 7149 miles on them and the rear were blown. try them out. hell if you were close i would let you drive my car. it makes no sense that gm put junk on the car like that just a heads up. <br>

see ya!

my plan....take the 82 gti out of the garage in early april....wash it, then let my dad set it up for another autox season ....my knowledge of solo and cars in general is nothing compared to my fathers haha

<br>

Brian

The Koni's made the biggest difference on my car. It made me regret waiting so long to get them. It was the single best improvement to my car. If I had to choose between race tires or koni's and I could only use one, it would be the koni's. So that should tell you something. As for tires...I will never buy another racetire other than hoosier. I don't know how you guys can run yoko's or kumho's. If you had achance to run hoosiers for a day you'd see what I mean. I know they are pricey but you definitely get what you pay for. And they do last pretty long(for a racetire...don't expect them to last if you're driving to/from events on them!!), but they last long probably because we don't have the power to do those big smokey donuts that the camaros and mustangs do when the f-up and lose it!!! Anyways, I have poly suspension bushings, koni's arospeed drop springs, subframe and strut tower braces,and hoosier racetires and I'm not concerned with the rear alignment at all. The only time I lose traction is when the tires/pavement are really cold AND I have less than 1/2 tank of fuel. BELIEVE ME THE FUEL LEVEL MAKES A HUGE DIFFERENCE ON THE J-BODY'S REAR TRACTION. It took me a while to figure that out because I was focused on shock settings and tire pressures, but I'm glad I did.

I figured the fuel thing out as well. I always like to start an event with 3/4 of a tank, otherwise the back end just gets too light and easy to swing around.

Sean, just put the shims on there man. Do you know anybody thats willing to shell out the money to protest you on the issue? Even if they did, F$#@ them, its not like adding a little bit of camber to the rear gave you a huge competitive advantage over them (most likely they would just be pissed because they lost to a cavalier).

Don't get rid of the cavalier even though the MR-2 is probably as much fun.

Sean, did you run the MR-2 or the cavalier at Toledo this past year? <br>