Does anyone know or have experience with these trucks?

Im looking at a 2002 f250 7.3l diesel. Its got 128k on it. The owner is asking $7500.

its in perfect condition bodywise, the interior is also in excellent shape.

I am weary of the price on it, as trucks in its range with its miles go for 2x that price.

Does anyone know what kind of problems these trucks/motors commonly have?

Im not a diesel guy, I can probably fix most anything thats wrong with it, but i dont know what to watch/look/listen for when i test drive it.

Any advise or things to watch out for you can give would be great.

Thanks!
Matt


"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire

Glow plug relays, IDMs, and injectors are tghe most common. Other than that they are pretty solid trucks. Much more reliable than the 6.0L and 6.4L

Apparently the truck has seen light duty its whole life, does the extra stress of actually hauling loads make these problems occur sooner, or are they gonna happen regardless?

Im weary of it having 128000 miles, but I dont feel so bad now seeing that MANY trucks for sale in in its price range have double or triple the miles.

at 128000 miles should i worry about these issues?

I will get a repair history if its available, but going in "blind" assuming the truck runs and drives well, is it worth it?

Im not worried about doing repairs, just that ive heard that the parts are a bit pricey


"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire

Actually one using the trucks for light duty will cause turbo problems in them. Ford uses Garret turbos with adjustable vanes in the exhaust housings. The vanes will wear groves in the housing and wont allow the turbo to hit full boost when you need it. You can pull the turbo and remove the groves to an extent, but you'll be better off replacing the turbo. Also the turbo and EGR are prone to carbon build up.

There is no factory gasket between the exhaust manifolds and heads and leaks are very common on all Power@!#$s. The manifold to turbo Y-pipe is a PITA to replace if it cracks.

It is actually better for diesel engines if you work them/beat on them once in a while. They are built for it. Also 128000 miles is nothing, it should have atleast 130000+ miles left in it.


"Project 69'"
1969 Chevrolet C/10, 1/2 ton, 2wd
-Boosted LS1?
-Richmond ROD 6-speed(will get sometime)
-Posi 12-bolt(built w/eaton posi unit and richmond 3.73 gears)
-Disc brake and 5 lug swap
+little extras

OP wrote:7.3l Ford f250 Diesel advice

bigger turbo.no, BIGGER. bigger injectors. think garden hose here. straight pipe it. done.



JBO Stickers! Get yours today!

Kinda funny this vehicle is mentioned cause my buddy just got one out off a trade straight up for his Jeep. The thing needs batteries, glow plugs, and mess of wires reattached, and some other little things, but it runs good(when it starts), has a 4.5" lift on the front(to even it out plus an 1" or so), and 37" military surplus tires that are run flats.

my work has 2 2001 f450 trucks with this motor and one truck has 238k the other 196k and they both run very strong. Since I've been driving them we went through one trans and one rearend on the other truck....but the motors still run strong.

Tinkles wrote:Actually one using the trucks for light duty will cause turbo problems in them. Ford uses Garret turbos with adjustable vanes in the exhaust housings. The vanes will wear groves in the housing and wont allow the turbo to hit full boost when you need it. You can pull the turbo and remove the groves to an extent, but you'll be better off replacing the turbo. Also the turbo and EGR are prone to carbon build up.

There is no factory gasket between the exhaust manifolds and heads and leaks are very common on all Power@!#$s. The manifold to turbo Y-pipe is a PITA to replace if it cracks.

It is actually better for diesel engines if you work them/beat on them once in a while. They are built for it. Also 128000 miles is nothing, it should have atleast 130000+ miles left in it.

7.3's didn't have the VGT turbo's, just a normal wastegate.

O noes!

Smokey wrote:

Tinkles wrote:Actually one using the trucks for light duty will cause turbo problems in them. Ford uses Garret turbos with adjustable vanes in the exhaust housings. The vanes will wear groves in the housing and wont allow the turbo to hit full boost when you need it. You can pull the turbo and remove the groves to an extent, but you'll be better off replacing the turbo. Also the turbo and EGR are prone to carbon build up.

There is no factory gasket between the exhaust manifolds and heads and leaks are very common on all Power@!#$s. The manifold to turbo Y-pipe is a PITA to replace if it cracks.

It is actually better for diesel engines if you work them/beat on them once in a while. They are built for it. Also 128000 miles is nothing, it should have atleast 130000+ miles left in it.

7.3's didn't have the VGT turbo's, just a normal wastegate.

That's nice. I know i replaced quite a few turbos on 6.0L Power@!#$s.


"Project 69'"
1969 Chevrolet C/10, 1/2 ton, 2wd
-Boosted LS1?
-Richmond ROD 6-speed(will get sometime)
-Posi 12-bolt(built w/eaton posi unit and richmond 3.73 gears)
-Disc brake and 5 lug swap
+little extras

Well I test drove it and it was like a brand new truck.

I've driven a couple of these before (newer ones) and this one seemed the same.

Great throttle response, drives well, no obscene noises, good brakes.



It's got a flomaster exhaust system on it, 4" it looks like. It sounds amazing.

It also has a propane injection system i didn't notice before, second owner never used it.



I'm picking it up today. Can't wait.


Thanks for the input guys! I'll post some pics later, CANT believe it's selling for $7500.


"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire

Uh, do yourself a favor ASAP and remove the propane system before you blow up your motor... There's a reason why nobody sells them anymore. 128K with no hauling is nothing for these trucks... Mine has 141K on it and I wouldn't be afraid to hop in it right now and drive cross-country... again. If your ball joints haven't been replaced yet, they're going to need it soon. If you have any questions, let me know. Chances are I've replaced it... I've got a mile long list of parts for my truck.

Here's the most recent pic of my truck, it's a 2000. Don't let the front end fool you...



2000 Ford F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 - Not stock
1973 16' Tahiti Speedboat
1983 200 HP Mercury BlackMax
1997 Chevy Cavalier with 275K miles

I didnt know the propane system was a no-no, like i said i dont have much knowledge around diesels.

I appreciate the warning. The system isnt actually hooked up right now as it is.

The truck is quick enough as it is, and im building a turbo motor for my cavalier so the go-fast stuff goes on that.

I REALLY like how it sounds with the flowmaster exhaust.

I may put a chip in it or something, for now its staying as is and im going to check things out under the hood and behind the wheels tomorrow.

I probably will take you up on how-tos and what to look for, im not afraid to start tearing into it, but it always helps to have someone to show or explain what youre doing before you start work.


Thanks for the info!

Nice truck BTW, IDK if I feel the grille on it, but the rest looks just like the one i just got!


"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire

Ditch the Flowmaster and go to a straight pipe... Mine has a 4" down pipe which turns goes to 5" after that, no muffler. Sounds great. Don't spend $300 on a fancy air intake, research the 6637 filter. You're also going to need gauges if you get a chip. EGT, boost, and tranny temp are most common. Speaking of tranny, with 128K on it, it's on the downhill side of it's life. Not trying to scare you. Mine has 141K on the original tranny, and I'm not holding my breath. Since you have a 2002, you have the wonderful PMR rods, which means if you want to make serious power (turbo, injectors, etc), you're going to have to upgrade the rods, unless you want to throw a rod. Change your oil at least every 5000 miles. Don't believe those extended drain interval stories. They don't work in the Powerstroke motors. Your injectors are run off of the oil. If you extend the drain intervals (say 6000 miles or more), your oil actually becomes thinner. Oh, and yes, your motor really does take 15 quarts of oil. Make sure you pre-fill the oil filter before putting it on, cause it holds 2 quarts. Not 2 additional quarts, 2 out of the 15.

And just re-capping over what a few people have said in this thread... The *most* common problem with a 7.3 is going to be the cam position sensor. It's a $20 part from the dealer (used to be $150). I keep a spare in my glove box, as should every other 7.3 owner. Injectors and IDMs going out aren't too common, but it does happen. You do not have a VGT turbo in the truck. Your truck does not have an EGR system.

2000 Ford F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 - Not stock
1973 16' Tahiti Speedboat
1983 200 HP Mercury BlackMax
1997 Chevy Cavalier with 275K miles

suprised no one said stuff about oil pans rotting out.

Bought a 02 f 350 7.3l brand new. 65k miles later the oil pan started leaking. Had to shove a tooth pick in one of the holes to slow the leaks. Rear end cover started leaking/ rotted out a few months later. Thing doesnt see much salt. Ford shop up here in wisconsin said they try to keep them pans/ rear end covers in stock. So i dont feel alone out there.

oil pan- 2000$ repair as the motor has to come out. They take it out, flip the motor over and then let the gasket material (no gasket) set and put the motor back in.

had the cam sensor thing done.

replaced a stuck rear caliper too and a sway bar bushing that was squeeking.

other then that it is a nice truck. I would much rather have this motor then the other 6.0's.


good price i think for sure.

I like how the flowmaster sounds, and it was not a hackjob install, so ill just keep it, its nice and mild and not outrageous. If I was gonna make a lot of power and go balls out i would run straight pipe.

The truck actually came with a double a-pillar pod, boost and EGT.

I had to install a new Boost gauge because the existing one didnt have a needle, easy enough.

the EGT only has gone to like 500-600, so im not sure if its accurate or not, can anyone let me know what egts on a diesel look like? The sensor is in the downpipe, which i know makes a difference, but how much?


Ill throw a filter in it, as the existing one is (what i would call) spent, an easy upgrade.

I dont intend to make a ton of power with this truck, i actually am happy with how it is now, but might add more down the road.

The oil right now looks like it was replaced right before we bought it, so I plan to do a change in the near future (month or so from now). What kind of oil? I run synthetic in my car (which has 143k on it), but IDK what kind of oil diesels like. I always changed my car's oil at 3k even if the oil says its good for 5,10,15k.. 5000 is a bit past my comfort zone.

I looked at the oil pan and it looks ok, no rust, no rot no drips.

I will grab a cam sensor and keep it in the truck, along with whatever it takes to swap it out, just in case.. for $20 its not bad insurance.


I was swapping out the broken dvd headunit and found an MSD ignition propane injection module, the truck has a propane kit (unhooked as of now) in it. What does the MSD do exactly? Ill research it, but it seems there are a couple of diesel guys here, so i figured I'd ask.

Best part of all of the mods on the truck is that they were done how I would have done them, the "right" way..... nothing is hack-installed, which makes me more comfortable with the truck as a whole.


"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire

Matt Linke wrote:
The oil right now looks like it was replaced right before we bought it, so I plan to do a change in the near future (month or so from now). What kind of oil? I run synthetic in my car (which has 143k on it), but IDK what kind of oil diesels like. I always changed my car's oil at 3k even if the oil says its good for 5,10,15k.. 5000 is a bit past my comfort zone.

the diesel guys around here swear by Rotella-T 15w40, or the synthetic 5w40.



JBO Stickers! Get yours today!

I really don't know much about the propane systems... other than they're bad. haha. Yeah, rusted oil pans are no fun. Mine is starting to rust. You can replace them without pulling the motor actually, but you've gotta pull the transmission to do it. As for oil, I ran 15w40 Motorcraft just fine for about 2 years. Then I discovered 5w40 Rotella synthetic. It's quite expensive ($20 a gallon), but in cold temperatures the truck started up sooo much better. I'm running it now just because the truck hardly ever gets driven anymore. Oh, and you want your EGT probe mounted in the manifold, not the down pipe.

2000 Ford F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 - Not stock
1973 16' Tahiti Speedboat
1983 200 HP Mercury BlackMax
1997 Chevy Cavalier with 275K miles

Ill look at relocating the EGT probe, should be easy enough.

I hard from a couple diesel guys around here that the Rotella 15w40 is the way to go. This truck hasnt had synthetic in it at all, so I dont want to switch.

Thanks for the info guys!

im excited about this truck, is awesome to drive.


"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire

Don't be afraid to switch. Mine didn't have 135K on it until I switched. Where the hell are the pics of this beast??

2000 Ford F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 - Not stock
1973 16' Tahiti Speedboat
1983 200 HP Mercury BlackMax
1997 Chevy Cavalier with 275K miles

Should have bought a Cummins.


"Project 69'"
1969 Chevrolet C/10, 1/2 ton, 2wd
-Boosted LS1?
-Richmond ROD 6-speed(will get sometime)
-Posi 12-bolt(built w/eaton posi unit and richmond 3.73 gears)
-Disc brake and 5 lug swap
+little extras

Pics are coming soon I need to get my camera back first.

Quote:

Should have bought a Cummins.

Doubt I could find one for what I paid. I do like them however.



"A car just isn't a car without a little blood, sweat, and beers." -- Shadowfire

Tinkles wrote:Should have bought a Cummins.

That's like buying a gold nugget wrapped in a turd. Not worth the hassle.

2000 Ford F-250 7.3 Powerstroke 4x4 - Not stock
1973 16' Tahiti Speedboat
1983 200 HP Mercury BlackMax
1997 Chevy Cavalier with 275K miles