Hey guys, my check engine light is on and the only thing i can think of off the top of my head is because i took out the stock 02 sensor, should i use HPT and disable it? If so, how do i disable the 02 sensor?
What else could make the check engine light go on? i put in 42lb injectors and colder spark plugs, what if one of them isnt working? How can i tell?
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Lots of things could cause a CEL, the only way to know what is causing it is to have it scanned, and then you'll know EXACTLY what it is. When you say "i took out the stock 02 sensor" does that mean you put it back, or is it still out? If you put it back, unhook the negative battery cable, and hit the brake pedal, hook the battery back up, and see if it comes back. If not, you don't have a problem anymore (it was the O2 sensor being unhooked), if it comes back, then get it scanned and find out what it's for, and then fix it. Bigger injectors, without the mods to make it run on them, can throw codes for rich conditions, , colder plugs with a rich idle can cause misfires, etc.
15.3 @ 89.97mph - '01 SFGT
'98 Acura 1.6EL Sport 5M Y7/Y8 mini me
No im using a wideband so i took out the stock one and left it out, i have my innovate wideband AFR gauge hooked up and im boosting thats why i took out the stock 02 sensor...
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which o2 sensor? the one in the exhaust manifold/header? or the one in the cat?
if it's the one in the exhaust manifold/header...
PUT IT BACK IN! the PCM
NEEDS that sensor to run correctly, and it
WILL NOT work with a wideband o2 plugged in there. also your wideband will give you extremely inaccurate readings if you put it in the cat converter.
you should take your car to an exhaust shop and have them weld in a bung specifically for the wideband o2.
Desert Tuners
“When you come across a big kettle of crazy, it’s best not to stir it.”
FReQ Z wrote:which o2 sensor? the one in the exhaust manifold/header? or the one in the cat?
if it's the one in the exhaust manifold/header... PUT IT BACK IN! the PCM NEEDS that sensor to run correctly, and it WILL NOT work with a wideband o2 plugged in there. also your wideband will give you extremely inaccurate readings if you put it in the cat converter.
you should take your car to an exhaust shop and have them weld in a bung specifically for the wideband o2.
Yup.^^^
15.3 @ 89.97mph - '01 SFGT
'98 Acura 1.6EL Sport 5M Y7/Y8 mini me
Dude put HPT down and step away from the car. You have the program needed to tell you why your CEL is on yet you have no clue why it is on.
FU Tuning
i took both of them out and i have a innovate wideband hooked up...
Cant i just disable them and use HPT and adjust how much fuel my car needs under boost?
Im not so sure... but im running 7 PSI of boost...
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Lefix wrote:i took both of them out and i have a innovate wideband hooked up...
Cant i just disable them and use HPT and adjust how much fuel my car needs under boost?
Im not so sure... but im running 7 PSI of boost...
Not to be a d!ck, but I really think you need to take it to a professional. I have seen your posts both on here and on HPT's site, and with the answers you have been givin, it is obvious that you still do not understand how to use HPT properly and as far as "tuning" goes, I dont think you quite "get it". I feel that you are going to do more harm than good if you continue to attempt to tune your own vehicle.
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
^ +1
You can't just "take out" your O2 sensor and use tuning to adjust your fuel. Like everybody else says, your ECU NEEDS a narrowband signal to run, so unless you are emulating the narrowband signal, you are really just potentially screwing up your motor.
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Lefix wrote:so should i put both of them back in or just the one in the exhaust manifold?
As stated above, put it all back together, then take it to someone that knows and understands how to tune your vehicle properly....
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
Dude, my car's AFR is at 16 idle, 12 accel, and 13 boost, so i dont think i CANT tune my car... Im just asking about the 02 sensors cuz my mechanics told me i dont have to put them back in, they drive hondas so i dont know if that make a difference...
Im not saying Im a professional at tuning or anything but everyone starts out without knowing anything, its how fast they learn and remember make them better so you shouldnt disencourage me from tuning my car...
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What everybody else said lol.
At least put the one from your exhaust mani back on, weld it to your downpipe.. The one for your cat, just try to find an O2 simulator or something lol
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
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Lefix wrote:Dude, my car's AFR is at 16 idle, 12 accel, and 13 boost, so i dont think i CANT tune my car... Im just asking about the 02 sensors cuz my mechanics told me i dont have to put them back in, they drive hondas so i dont know if that make a difference...
Im not saying Im a professional at tuning or anything but everyone starts out without knowing anything, its how fast they learn and remember make them better so you shouldnt disencourage me from tuning my car...
Its also running in limp mode with your timing tables SEVERELY retarded, and its dumping as much fuel in as possible because it can't tell how much is getting burned, thats the only reason you're in safe AFR's and your engine hasn't received damage.
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but do i HAVE to put it back in?
Hear me out first...
If my AFR is doing good that shouldnt mean its wasting gas right? cuz if my car is wasting that much gas my afr should be way too rich for boost and right now its just rich enough for my turbo...
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Lefix wrote:but do i HAVE to put it back in?
Hear me out first...
If my AFR is doing good that shouldnt mean its wasting gas right? cuz if my car is wasting that much gas my afr should be way too rich for boost and right now its just rich enough for my turbo...
At this point I don't think your timing tables are the only thing that is retarted....
PUT THE DAMN SENSOR BACK IN ! Your mechanic is a fool and obviously like you does not know what the hell he is doing. TAKE IT TO A PROFESSIONAL !
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
Lefix wrote:but do i HAVE to put it back in?
Hear me out first...
If my AFR is doing good that shouldnt mean its wasting gas right? cuz if my car is wasting that much gas my afr should be way too rich for boost and right now its just rich enough for my turbo...
I'll put it as bluntly as I can...
YES
Listen to me and my buddy up there ^.
Fuel is NOT THE ONLY THING THAT KEEPS YOUR ENGINE TOGETHER. Just because you are rich, doesn't mean you are "good". Too much fuel can be just as bad as too little fuel. You are running rich across the ENTIRE driving range, not just boost, not just accel, cruise as well. Excess fuel washes the oil off of the cylinder walls, causing pre-mature ring failure. Put the sensor back on and find a new mechanic.
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Come on man, to put it in english.. Your WB doesnt talk to your compuer AT ALL, thats what your sensors are for. Your engine cant adjust or make changes from what your WB is saying.
Example, I had to change out fuel pump from a walbro to the blazer.. Now im throwing a CEL because my SENSOR is telling me my car is too rich and I need to adjust the afr's. Now I have to tune my car all over again.. Im running 10.5 to 12 at WOT lol, stupid rich. Thats why the car is sitting until we get a chance to tune it next week.
Bottom line, if it wasnt for my sensor the car would have no way of telling me that is trying to make changes to compensate for being rich, in my case.
~2014 New Z under the knife, same heart different body~
______________________
WHITECAVY no more
2012 numbers - 4SPD AUTOMATIC!!
328 HP
306 TQ
also hondas are very different in their tuning, i no many people that remove their o2's on hondas, but they also have a fuel map that is totally different than ours. our tuning system is very different therefor what works for one car may also not work for ours. i had a guy arguing with me telling me all i need is a fuel map thats it, the car will follow that with tuning off the map... our cars dont use the map for the fuel, hence his way wont work for us. all he has ever touched was chrome, uberdata, hondata because he has a h22 turbo swapped eg.
hmm i see.. does it matter where the sensor is at? cuz my downpipe is a freaking tight fit, can i make a bung further down on my exhaust and put the stock 02 in there?
Thank you all for answering my question, i just needed to know that the sensor doesnt only control fuel thats all...
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your first O2 sensor is the all important one. the second one pretty much just checks if your cat is working. it would be ideal to put the wideband before the cat, but im sure after the cat would be an ok position as well
1997 RedR - ZedR
whitegoose( RedR-ZedR) wrote:your first O2 sensor is the all important one. the second one pretty much just checks if your cat is working. it would be ideal to put the wideband before the cat, but im sure after the cat would be an ok position as well
Nope. The cat changes the chemical composition of the exhaust gas, and changes what the wideband AF will read, making it useless. Wideband always goes BEFORE the cat, tailpipe sniffer style widebands only work on cars WITHOUT cats for this same reason.
To the original poster, you NEED your primary O2 sensor in the stock location, get an extra bung welded in for the wideband somewhere between the manifold and the cat. You can disable the codes that will be thrown for the 2ndary O2 sensor via HPtuners, should you still throw codes once you put the sensor back in (not sure if you changed the section of pipe where it screwed in originally or not).
15.3 @ 89.97mph - '01 SFGT
'98 Acura 1.6EL Sport 5M Y7/Y8 mini me
Wideband needs to be mounted 12-16" from the manifold, depending on manufacturer of the wideband. Any closer and you will burn it up, any farther away and it will get false readings. Check the documentation to know exactly where the "sweet spot" is for your particular sensor.
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