alright, i got an 00 ld9 with a turbo setup and a gm reflash on it also. The car has ford green tops which are 42"s from what i was told. I got the tables adjusted with the help of a tuner and it worked wonders for the car. When i first got it, it was super rich and wouldnt start w/out me having the gas pedal to the floor, and it was idling at 9.5-10.. now it idles around 11-12 and when i do regular driving it stays around 14. The only issue im having now is when i downshift or slow down and stick it in neutral the car tries to die out like its not getting fuel. today i swapped the plugs it had to ngk tr6's so im not sure if i did something wrong in that matter. What should i start to look at? and if i need to i can get the file i saved and post it on here on monday. imphat0260 helped me and he's been awesome so far.. just tryna see wut anyone else can lend for the issue i got now.
Sounds like you need to do some good runing for normal driving. Hard to say without seeing the tune file and logs.
FU Tuning
ill post up the files monday as well as get back into contact with imphat if he's not busy. lol. doin this over the phone is hard, but its definitely been worth it.
sounds like you need to find out exactly what injector constant is the right one for those injectors and that tune, but again, hard to say without knowing what the tune looks like
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
so u think its the injectors that are doing it? are they just not doing anything when i put it in neutral basically? when i start in neutral its fine.. when i drive for awhile its good. after a good drive and i try to downshift or slowdown and throw it in neutral the rpms just drooooooop.
Your entire driveability issue sounds like the injectors aren't set up right so the PCM is having a hell of a time adjusting fuel back and forth to target 14.6:1.
The injector constant probably needs to be recalculated knowing the actual number your injectors are compared to the other ones. The reflash was made for the 29.5lb injectors, and if yours are truly 42lb then your injector constant needs to be done like this:
old injector size/new injector size)*old injector constant = new injector constant
(29.5/42)*0.32359 =
0.22728
So if your injector constant isn't something very close to that bolded number, it needs to be. And then re-adjust the VE tables based on AFR error.
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
iirc i think thats almost exactly close to the number i got. man.. tomorrow ill post up my graphs and see where we can get.
my injector constant is way off actually.. .11571. i can adjust that but i dont know how to change the VE tables
Yikes. It's opening the injectors for way too little of a time.
Have a wideband hooked up and logging in HPTuners? You can do the VE tables. It's easy.
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
yea i have a wideband..dont know how to connect it to hpt tho. i just did a log, if u wanna see it pm me and ill email it. i think i did something wrong tho, cuz now i cant open the log
Looking at your tune...
You never got the GM reflash.... All of the tables go from 20 to 100 kPa... and there's various other oddities.
Whoever "tuned" you, all they changed was:
- PE Delay dropped from 3400 to 1500 (should leave it at 3400.. no need to change it)
- Injector constant changed, almost cut in half
- PE AFR target
- PE AFR multiplier vs. RPM
They didn't even change the VE tables! So basically they figured you could throw boost at a stock computer using whatever MAP sensor you're using and adjust fueling by simply changing the target AFR and injector constant, LOL.
Are you using a 2 bar MAP sensor? You need to get the GM reflash done and work from there. Do the reflash, change the injector constant to what I put above, and then hook up the wideband to log AFR Error % and adjust the VE tables. I can walk you through that and give you useful Config files and instructions, but you need to get the GM reflash first.
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
i changed most of that stuff with guidance.. but how do u know its not reflashed? when i plug the car in, it says its an 02 which is weird. cuz the car's an 00. if anything all of the adjustments are my fault and i probably input them wrong. we werent exactly done but im stressing out here. do i absolutely need the reflash? cuz if i dont have it, that means im gonna have to pay to go get it done and as it stands the car isnt perfectly driveable and i still gotta get my inspection sticker (easy in tx) but i need to finish registering it and wutnot
The changes you made were okay, but the PCM is the 1 bar one! Yeah you need the reflash!
The PCM can only read vacuum to 0. You're boosting. You need a 2 bar so it can read positive pressure in the manifold.
You need to get it done.
Do you have a 2 bar MAP sensor?
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
im assuming yes cuz thats wut my buddy told me it was... there's this little green rectangular brick that i believe is one. so basically the reason my boost gauge isnt working is cuz its not even reading boost anyway? lol that would make sense
idk if u saw em, but im throwing some crazy codes i didnt even know cars throw. and most of them say brakes or restraints in the beginning. soooo confusing. i adjusted the pe delay back to 3400 and also changed the injector constant
If you have an actual boost gauge (mechanical, not reading through the PCM) it will be able to read boost.
Your buddy also told you you had the reflash... hopefully you have the 2 bar.
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
well the guy we got the car from told him it had a reflash. i saw the map sensor, i think it even says map on it.. i wanna just take the turbo stuff of and drive the car NA.
no you don't lol
of course you have a MAP sensor, it's important that it's a 2 and not a 1.
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
im gonna go out side, stick my head under the hood and slam it a few times. Ill get back to this a few times.. ill see if the injector adjustment helped out at all. hopefully it does. that or the ve tables is wut u think is causing the car to die when i shift into neutral?
Like I said!
You have a stock PCM trying to handle a boosted car with bigger injectors.
GET THE REFLASH, change the injector constant, drive away. Experience a night and day different. Do a little VE tuning, and run perfect.
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
I mean, a stock PCM trying to handle a boosted car with bigger injectors AND a 2 bar MAP sensor! Forgot about that when I just replied to your most recent PM. If you went N/A for some crazy unbased reason you'd have to put the 1 bar MAP sensor back in.
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
alright..looks like im headed to the dealer.. good thing is my buddy is a gm tech and he always gets us good prices on the labor stuff
I bet he does not have a 2 bar map. 2 bar map untuned on a N/A ECU will not idle right, as well not read right in boost. As for the GM Reflash you can download a copy off HPT's site, and alot of people on here have it. Use HPT to flash it to your car. It will cost you 2 credits in HPT. The car can be tuned without the reflash, and the 2 bar map, but for someone who is not sure what they are doing I would not recommend it. The GM reflash makes it soo much easier to tune.
FU Tuning
He shouldn't need credits considering he's already been modifying his tune.
The reflash needs to be specific to the car I thought, GM rewrote the OS to change the table axes and various other things. I didn't think you could Write Entire from another vehicle year/model combo's tune.
You better have a 2 bar MAP sensor.... :/ Although when I ran mine before the reflash it ran like absolute @!#$ and died almost instantly with the 2 bar in.
2001 Olds Alero (LD9)
650 whp / 543 ft-lb
@turboalero
it did run horribly...before i started messing with the fuel. the car was retarded rich and wouldnt stay on unless i had the gas pedal down basically. i cant find the stuff i need on the hpt site.
