We got my LC1 DB kit installed lastnight
All the grounds run to the radio ground, all wires are soldered real well and heat shrinked
My buddy has this same setup and installed the same way
His reads 22.4 when he calibrated it
Mine only read 21.9 and will only read a 21.9 max
When we installed it, it was in my garage we pulled the car into and let run for a bit and he also had a smoke in there
Would this have caused a bad calibration?
Thanks for the help
Ran into another issue today
The led is flashing 4 times and the gauge keeps flashing 7.4 at me
sUiCiDe wrote:Ran into another issue today
The led is flashing 4 times and the gauge keeps flashing 7.4 at me
the instruction manual that came with the LC-1 has an explanation of the error codes.
you can also download the .pdf from innovate's website.
its in appendix C, on page 21
Dealt with the heater calibration problem
PJ - Is it normal that my LC1 would read 21.9 after a Free Air calibration and Newts reads 22.4 after free air calibration?
Both installed the same way
I think it depends on the parameters programmed into the controller.
I'll try to take notice what mine reads maxed out tonight to see if there's any difference.
Please do so i can compare
cruising max AFR sweeps to around 18.5ish on decel but thats irrelevant.
programming of the controller you can set the spread, but I wouldn't worry about the accuracy.
As long as you did a free-air calibration, all is well.
if you pump the LC-1 into HPT tho, be sure to do a voltage offset so the AFR number in HPT is the same as the actual AFR number.
Could you explain the Voltage Offset procedure PJ ?
as far as calibrating it ... you do both calibrations with the car off including the heater calibration
to do the AFR calibration, let the car sit for 8 hours..turn the car on, let the sensor warm up .. then ground the wire (or push the button if you installed it) .. turn car off for 60 seconds, then you can start the car and go.
procedure is explained in the manual.
once you've started the car there will be gases in the exhaust system so maybe it wont read max lean. also, you might have a slight voltage offset depending on how everything is grounded.
everythings explained in the documentation though. running it to the radio ground might not be the best
14.82 @ 97 mph
Jason Z24 wrote:as far as calibrating it ... you do both calibrations with the car off including the heater calibration
to do the AFR calibration, let the car sit for 8 hours..turn the car on, let the sensor warm up .. then ground the wire (or push the button if you installed it) .. turn car off for 60 seconds, then you can start the car and go.
procedure is explained in the manual.
once you've started the car there will be gases in the exhaust system so maybe it wont read max lean. also, you might have a slight voltage offset depending on how everything is grounded.
everythings explained in the documentation though. running it to the radio ground might not be the best
Im having no issues with the install
Everything is grounded together and to the radio ground which might not be the best i agree
Could you explain how to adjust the voltage offset for HPT ?
Voltage offset setup is explained on the HPT forums.
You need a computer with a serial port to program the LC-1 so you can perform the offset test and get it bang on. That was a bit of an issue for me since laptops haven't come with serial ports in YEARS.
-Chris-
-Sweetness-
-Turbocharged-
Slowly but surely may some day win this race...
Ya im going to grab a serial to USB adapter tomorrow
Thanks Chris
Yeah they do you just have to shell out 3k for a Panasonic Toughbook, LOL
___________________________________________________________________
Hahn Stage II - Mitsu TD06-20g |3" Turbo-back Exhaust | 61mm Bored TB |
HP Tuners | Innovate WB02 | Spec Stage 3 | Team Green LSD | TurboTech Upper | Full Addco Sways | Sportlines & Yellows |
if you have trouble with the serial to USB adapter, let me know. I have one that works without any problems with both MSD and the LC-1
DaFlyinSkwir(LS61) /PJ/ OEM+ wrote:if you have trouble with the serial to USB adapter, let me know. I have one that works without any problems with both MSD and the LC-1
Which brand is it? I have bought 2. First one locked up my PC all the time. Second one works, but sometimes locks it up.
I have not really needed it because my LC1 works dead on using the PID already in HPT.
FU Tuning
John Higgins wrote:DaFlyinSkwir(LS61) /PJ/ OEM+ wrote:if you have trouble with the serial to USB adapter, let me know. I have one that works without any problems with both MSD and the LC-1
Which brand is it? I have bought 2. First one locked up my PC all the time. Second one works, but sometimes locks it up.
I have not really needed it because my LC1 works dead on using the PID already in HPT.
never once had a problem with this adapter. It works in every instance I need to use a serial-to-USB interface
http://www.iogear.com/product/GUC232A/
IOGear USB to Serial RS-232 Adapter
I found it listed on the MSD website when I was having trouble getting my laptop to connect to my 6212 box.
I use it for the MSD and programming the LC-1
Was having problems getting the LC1 to take the changes i made to the analog outputs
Going to update the Firmware and try again today
Took the changes but
Everytime i disconnect my battery i have to redo the calibrations on the LC1
Is this normal?
Have also run into more issues with the LC1
The gauge is now reading 7.4 and blinking at me, then after a bit it will read my max 21.9 without the LED blinking the entire time i drive
Ive tried redoing the calibrations with no change
Led has shown me a few Error Code 8s also but no all the time
Entire LC1 setup is new and only installed for about a week
Been constant headaches
Really need wideband so i can tune the for the HO Cams
Anyone have some insight?
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Sunday, May 24, 2009 7:52 PM
Innovate is closed today because of the US holiday
I am supposed to go racing this Saturday but can't tune because of this
Car needs some idle tables corrected as it doesnt like to sit and idle for too long
Is there anything i can do to smooth out the fueling at all without my wideband working?
Or can i get this thing to work properly?
Why are you disconnecting the battery soo much? You do not have to re calibrate everything the battery is disconnected. Only when the LC1 has been run without a sensor, or every 3 months per the instruction manual.
I have a LC1 and have had no problems I did not cause.
FU Tuning
I have been doing electrical work on the car with swapping sensors and such