can I get away with out using the fast idle. This is a 2.2 ohv dirt track race car.
I believe the 2.2 Ohv used a IAC (Idle Air Controll)
You could maybe get by without using it....
yea I think your right. I'm really new to this so where I'm getting confused is trying to relate what the megamanual says to what "my" car actually has. I need to look at this more.
I have the relay box and stim put together, now I'm ready to move onto the megasquirt, The firts build section says...
22. Now you need to make a decision on the first 'optional' component: if you are going to use an IAC stepper motor with MegaSquirt-II, you must install a jumper from the hole marked S12C to the hole marked JS9 (+12C). These are on the bottom side of the board, on the DB9 side of the processor. DO NOT INSTALL THIS JUMPER FOR NON-MegaSquirt-II APPLICATIONS - IT WILL DESTROY THE PROCESSOR!!
If you are going to use a stepper style IAC (such as the GM IAC), you need to connect jumpers to bring the controller signals out to the DB37:
Connect (1A)JS0 (under the processor socket) to IAC1A (near the DB37 connector) - this brings out IAC1A on DB37 pin #25
Connect (1B)JS1 (under the processor socket) to IAC1B (near the DB37 connector) - this brings out IAC1B on DB37 pin #27
Connect (2A)JS2 (under the processor socket) to IAC2A (near the DB37 connector) - this brings out IAC2A on DB37 pin #29
Connect (2B)JS3 (under the processor socket) to IAC2B (near the DB37 connector) - this brings out IAC2B on DB37 pin #31
If you will be using an ignition output signal to control a coil or ignition module with MS-II, you will, likely be directed to jumper JS10 to:
IGN, or
IGBTIN, with IGBTOUT jumpered to IGN
(Check the documentation for your ignition set-up!).
If you will be using CAN communication between boards (MS-II and GPIO, for example), you should also jumper JS6 to SPR1/CANH and JS8 to SPR2/CANL
This is the stuff I need to figure out. Thanks guys
Wait... what?
First, the 2.2 will have the IAC stepper. That's what you'll want to use. You don't have a fast idle solenoid. I think my F-idle output is actually used to turn on my cooling fan. Once it gets up to temp, I use the output to activate the cooling fan relay.
Are you building your own MS-II unit? I bought mine assembled, so i'm not sure about the jump wire to the other side of the board. Or are you trying to run MS-II_Extra code?
And for reference, you will be using the output signal to control an ICM, so you'll need that too.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
Yes I'm building the unit myself. This will be a complete stand alone unit. I will be rewiring the whole car. If you used the F idle for your fan than what did you hook to your IAC? also what out put signal will be going to the ICM?
I will be using the unit to control my fan, I also want to hook another temp. controlled device up so I bought this extra relay controller that's an add on for that.
Thanks
ms2 can control a stepper idle valve, but since its a race car why worry about hooking it up just block it off and manually adjust it, my iac isnt even hooked up right now and my car is a street car.
R.I.P. Brian Klocke, you will never be forgotten
JoeBiv318 wrote:Yes I'm building the unit myself. This will be a complete stand alone unit. I will be rewiring the whole car. If you used the F idle for your fan than what did you hook to your IAC? also what out put signal will be going to the ICM?
I used the IAC output to hook to the IAC. For the ICM, I used the wire that is dedicated for the override signal.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
Like SHOoff,
I use my IAC circuit to controll my IAC.
Then I use the Fidle circuit to controll my rad fan.
As for building your MS,
you may need to do some more research...
What type of crank trigger do you have?
is it a missing tooth? Ms II can decode this...
I'm thinking though that it's an extra tooth ex 6+1 like mine. (not sure though, I dont work with Ohv's)
If its an extra tooth crank trigger, you will need to run MS-II extra (I dont use it, but I "think" it can decode extra tooth wheels.)
OR an ignition module that decodes the trigger independently.
Or are you doing to use an external crank trigger?
The ICM override (GM Dis EST line) is used when using a DIS (or edis?) ignition modle that independently decodes the vr signal.
The icm will set base timing, then ms will use the Est line to modify the timing.....
Hope this helps.....
Quote:
I'm thinking though that it's an extra tooth ex 6+1 like mine. (not sure though, I dont work with Ohv's)
If its an extra tooth crank trigger, you will need to run MS-II extra (I dont use it, but I "think" it can decode extra tooth wheels.)
OR an ignition module that decodes the trigger independently.
The 2.2ohv should have the 7x wheel on it (or as you worded it, the 6+1). MS-II will decode this, you just have to set yourself up by following the instructions for GM DIS. So the MS-II-extra code won't be necessary.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
so almost all of this I dont have a clue on. so I need to keep learning! I dont see the IAC output, just the Fidle on the relay board. would they be calling it something else?
I didn't use a relay board....
It's not really that usefull.
I bought a 6 circuit dual relay driven power block from painless instead.
Then a wiring harness straight from ms to the connections.
Quote:
The 2.2ohv should have the 7x wheel on it...... MS-II will decode this, you just have to set yourself up by following the instructions for GM DIS.
The DIS module decodes the vr signal, not ms.
Ms only controlles the advance/retard of the module.This is via the Est line.
But as you said it should have a 7x (6+1.... lol) trigger, so It should work fine with a dis module.
I think you will be looking for an equivelent to
Standard Motor Products LX345,
but i'm not 100% sure, as I got mine from a junk yard and just looked for the correct module with the VR sensor going to it...
Quote:
The DIS module decodes the vr signal, not ms.
Ms only controlles the advance/retard of the module.This is via the Est line.
Yeah, I guess you're right. I don't go back and review that point a lot. I guess I should say it works the same way a sock ecu will work.
i find it amusing that SHOoff has nothing better to do but follow me around & be an unhelpful dick in even cross-forum. - Jon Mick
NeedTurbo wrote:
The DIS module decodes the vr signal, not ms.
Ms only controlles the advance/retard of the module.This is via the Est line.
Actually, the MS2E code WILL decode the straight 7X reluctor output. You can catch ignition timing two ways now... 1. with the ICM catching the timing and the est line from the MS to modify or 2. You can hook up the VR ouput directly into the MS VR circuit input and have the MS, while running MS2E code, decode straight and run it's advance/retard off it's tables and directly fire the coils.....or even have the ouputs signal out to a 2.4L ICM which will handle all the dwell and such but will trigger the coils with a low current trigger instead of powering the coils directly out of the MS circuits. This is nice cause it keeps the heat out of the MS case and your not popping VB's all the time. Unless your running IGBT's...but still....heat can still be an issue depending on where you want to mount your MS.
Edited 4 time(s). Last edited Friday, October 02, 2009 10:30 AM
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
Yep,
I think your saying something similar to one of my previous posts.
Quote:
If its an extra tooth crank trigger, you will need to run MS-II extra (I dont use it, but I "think" it can decode extra tooth wheels.)
OR an ignition module that decodes the trigger independently.
When you quoted me I was referring to MSII non Extra.
^umm...yes and no. The extra tooth code doesn't work on the 7X......there has been a recent update to the Extra code that has that specific wheel included in the code tho. I've tried the +1 tooth wheel code before and it doesn't work because the extra tooth is previous to a timing tooth and not post timing tooth...so with the +1 wheel code it thinks the RPM's quickly changed and it stumbles all over itself. So you need to run the 7X wheel specific code to read directly.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
well, now I'm 100% confused.
If your using the realy board you should still be able to run the stepper IAC....you just have to tie into the DB37 on the relay board where it will let you get at the pins. Probly right after the DB or something....I've never ran one, but I'd be surprized if the pins weren't taken out to some kind or breakout setup. The likely reason your not seing it is because it probly isn't screen printed on the board...but that doesn't mean it's not there. Trace the pins over to the relay board and you should be able to tie into it somewhere on there. One could argue just increase the degree offset and drop it to follow the previous tooth but that didn't work either. I could have had the settings wrong tho......But the 7X code works great in any case.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Saturday, October 03, 2009 2:57 PM
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
Joe-Biv
I run a stand-alone without an IAC or bypass solenoid on a race car w/o any problems. I idle at 900+/- depending on oil temp, and surprisingly never stalls. I epoxied the IAC cavity in the throttle body and drilled a hole for the bypass air. I think the trade off is worth saving the 4 wires for complexity reduction as well as diagnostics while at the track (surging/ idle speed hunting issues). It's not like you need to rely on stallsaver routines due to unexpected AC or power steering loads. Idle fuel economy is probably the least of your concern. I was convinced by a 3rd party to do this and happy I did. You can beat me with a pipe if it doesn't work out.
Mike
