Ok well this spring my finally giving the beast a tune.
I need some input. I have no idea whatsoever how to use a tuning program at all.
I know what need to be done with a tune, but no idea how to make the program do that.
Would it be easy enough to do a tune by myself, or should I just have a shop do it.
Since they are almost the same amount to either buy HP Tuners or have a shop tune it.
I would have to adjust the injector pulse, and timing for the main stuff.
I have RC-Eng 650CC injectors, snow performace methanol kit, and a gm 3 bar map sensor.
I hear you have to "trick" hptuners to run on a 3 bar, is this true?
Im also planning on running 18-22 psi from a big 16g on a built 2200 motor.
I would also like ot have the software for the future incase i change something, thats not
another 600 out of my pocket for another tune.
Ditch the 3 bar map. It won't help with tuning the fueling at all, and it will cause a major loss of resolution on the ignition tables.
Look into flashing the LD9 s/c reflash. It's been reported to work here (i think by ImPhat), and you would need a 2bar map. That converts you to speed density with the ability to tune 15 psi in the green. You WILL need to adjust the injector constant and VE at a minimum to get it running on that OS.
If you read and understand shifted's faq on VE tuning, you should be able to get the fueling dialed in pretty well especially if you can use the LD9 s/c operating system. 650cc/min injectors should be fairly easy to tune as well IMO. The injector constant formula works well up to the point where very high flowing injectors cannot fire a short enough pulse to maintain idle without going rich. I don't think 650s are in that range.
Spark advance should be tuned on a dyno for maximum power anyways, but the bottom line is if you have the fuel tuned and you see knock, pull a degree or two from that cell. Water/meth injection should help combat knock nicely.
If you plan on making any changes in the future, it's worth getting the software/pro interface for yourself. You can always pay for some dyno time while you tune it, which should be cheaper than dyno time where the operator tunes it.
Like I said I know nothing.
What is VE tunng?
oldskool wrote:Ditch the 3 bar map. It won't help with tuning the fueling at all, and it will cause a major loss of resolution on the ignition tables.
Look into flashing the LD9 s/c reflash. It's been reported to work here (i think by ImPhat), and you would need a 2bar map. That converts you to speed density with the ability to tune 15 psi in the green. You WILL need to adjust the injector constant and VE at a minimum to get it running on that OS.
If you read and understand shifted's faq on VE tuning, you should be able to get the fueling dialed in pretty well especially if you can use the LD9 s/c operating system. 650cc/min injectors should be fairly easy to tune as well IMO. The injector constant formula works well up to the point where very high flowing injectors cannot fire a short enough pulse to maintain idle without going rich. I don't think 650s are in that range.
Spark advance should be tuned on a dyno for maximum power anyways, but the bottom line is if you have the fuel tuned and you see knock, pull a degree or two from that cell. Water/meth injection should help combat knock nicely.
If you plan on making any changes in the future, it's worth getting the software/pro interface for yourself. You can always pay for some dyno time while you tune it, which should be cheaper than dyno time where the operator tunes it.
Phil, I agree with Oldskool 100%. Also, I would be more than happy to guide you through the process and could give you a base/startup file that you could work off of. You could also fly me out and I could help you too
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
QWK LN2 I got money, lol where you live?
Also how much PSI and CFM are you running to hit yout numbers?
You have meth or nitrous?
I really just want to break 300hp, then I will be ok for one season lol
Then more upgrades to follow ..... of course
But Im not sure what else I could do besides a FP Green Turbo?!
Phil Lindsay wrote:QWK LN2 I got money, lol where you live?
Also how much PSI and CFM are you running to hit yout numbers?
You have meth or nitrous?
I really just want to break 300hp, then I will be ok for one season lol
Then more upgrades to follow ..... of course
But Im not sure what else I could do besides a FP Green Turbo?!
Live in STL... As for PSI, it was 15-18 with a spike/creep condition on a GT3076 ... Currently no meth or nitrous, but meth should be going on it in come spring time. Also, I have a new wastegate and better spring configuration, so more power to come soon!
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
can somone teach me how to read a compressor map? lol
I want to compare cfm and psi, from other setups and see how close I will come to 300hp.
Phil Lindsay wrote:
Im also planning on running 18-22 psi from a big 16g on a built 2200 motor.
The high side of that boost range on that turbo should put you close to 300hp at the flywheel. By built I assume you also mean the top end: ported head, rocker upgrade, ect. The 8v head flows like poops in stock form. For what it's worth, it should be a beast of a torque curve even if you don't hit 300hp
Yeah, top end and bottom end.
I have a "one off" custom top end.
LS1 and SBC hybrid top end assembly.
New valves, springs, locks, retainers, guides, seals, roller rockers, pushrods, hybrid lifters, cam, pistons, rods, and a p&p.
Among many other things.
Im not worried about the engine handling anything, im worried about what the turbo can deliver!
If you have the money have QWK tune your car!! You won't be dis-appointed!
FU Tuning
QWK LN2 (aka ImPhat0260) wrote:Phil Lindsay wrote:QWK LN2 I got money, lol where you live?
Also how much PSI and CFM are you running to hit yout numbers?
You have meth or nitrous?
I really just want to break 300hp, then I will be ok for one season lol
Then more upgrades to follow ..... of course
But Im not sure what else I could do besides a FP Green Turbo?!
Live in STL... As for PSI, it was 15-18 with a spike/creep condition on a GT3076 ... Currently no meth or nitrous, but meth should be going on it in come spring time. Also, I have a new wastegate and better spring configuration, so more power to come soon!
I was kind of curious...how do you HPT guys handle boost spikes like this, when you have no fueling or spark control over 15psi? If you are running over 15psi, I would think you should want to run a 2.5 or 3bar sensor so it reads slightly higher than the max boost you intend to run to control spikes like this, even if it is at the cost of lower resolution in the vacuum bins. No?
I have no signiture
Whalesac wrote:QWK LN2 (aka ImPhat0260) wrote:Phil Lindsay wrote:QWK LN2 I got money, lol where you live?
Also how much PSI and CFM are you running to hit yout numbers?
You have meth or nitrous?
I really just want to break 300hp, then I will be ok for one season lol
Then more upgrades to follow ..... of course
But Im not sure what else I could do besides a FP Green Turbo?!
Live in STL... As for PSI, it was 15-18 with a spike/creep condition on a GT3076 ... Currently no meth or nitrous, but meth should be going on it in come spring time. Also, I have a new wastegate and better spring configuration, so more power to come soon!
I was kind of curious...how do you HPT guys handle boost spikes like this, when you have no fueling or spark control over 15psi? If you are running over 15psi, I would think you should want to run a 2.5 or 3bar sensor so it reads slightly higher than the max boost you intend to run to control spikes like this, even if it is at the cost of lower resolution in the vacuum bins. No?
You just deal w/ it, running a 2.5bar or a 3bar on the s/c reflash on an LD9, I personally think is a waste & just ultimately leads to frustration. Either do it right within the limitations, fix your setup so it doesn't float around w/ spike/creep, or just don't do it. You can add a "lil extra" to the final cells on the tables to make sure things don't get too hairy on the top end of things.
-Trailblazer SS - not so custom 6.0L - custom intake - custom tune
- (1) 2.4L on an engine stand (1) blown trans (2) good quad trans (1) eco trans = party
