me and my friend were trying to tune my car the other day and we notced that the aem wideband gauge and the afr that it shows on hptuners while datalogging is off. the datalogging afr is alot more eratic while the afr on the gauge is alot more leveled out it is also off about 1 or 2 sometimes. what could be the problem? thanks
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QWK LN2 (P&P Tuning) wrote:Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:You need to do a voltage offset.
x2.....
how do i go about doing that?
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Is it .1 or .2 or a whole af off like 1.0 or 2.0? I'd say just a .1 off you would be ok imo.
its off my like 2 not .1 or .2. I told him to find the ground for the aem and tap the ground going to hptuners into that.
QWK LN2 (P&P Tuning) wrote:kevin roskosky wrote:QWK LN2 (P&P Tuning) wrote:Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:You need to do a voltage offset.
x2.....
how do i go about doing that?
See HELP section in your Scanner/Editor, or click on the link.....
http://www.thetuningschool.com/downloads/how_to_setup_wideband.pdf
much appreciated
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Zs Z wrote:its off my like 2 not .1 or .2. I told him to find the ground for the aem and tap the ground going to hptuners into that.
i was thinking that either way there both grounded to the frame so im not to sure that would create a problem. but i did it for you anyways
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TurboFire wrote:Zs Z wrote:its off my like 2 not .1 or .2. I told him to find the ground for the aem and tap the ground going to hptuners into that.
i was thinking that either way there both grounded to the frame so im not to sure that would create a problem. but i did it for you anyways
Haha thanks! I always read that the AEM were supposed to be good with no voltage offset.
well if i did the math right then it should be .625 but the AEM one in the software is .5 so i beleive that could solve that. Qwk? your thoughts.. i know you will know if i did the math right or not right away. i wish you lived closer lol. .625 is based on 0-5v reference, and 10-18 afr range
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Wide Band O2 - LM1: result = volts / .5 + 10
Wide Band O2 - TE 2A0: result = volts / .5 + 9
Wide Band O2 - PLX: result = volts / .5 + 10
Wide Band O2 - Autronic MAFM1: result = volts / .25 + 10
Wide Band O2 - AEM: result = volts / .5 + 10
Wide Band O2 - AFM1000: result = volts / .5 + 8
Wide Band O2 - G100: result = volts / 0.71248 + 9
Wide Band O2 - DynoJet: result = volts / .625 + 10
Wide Band O2 - LC1: result = volts / 0.3324 + 7.35
Wide Band O2 - NGK: result = volts / 0.7142 + 9
Wide Band O2 - FJO: Internal non-linear map.
now i beleive my AEM Uego would be volts/.625+10
and i shoud be able to just use the dynojet reference, correct?
all input is appreciated
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Are your grounds shared now? I don't have any issues with mine straight out of the box with qwk's config file. When you do your wiring the Aem and HP tuners shares the same ground and it should be as short at possible.
You want to change the 10, not the .5. Just make the change and save it and try keep doing it til they match.
FU Tuning
for some reason i do not have the user defined input in my hptuners file? any guess' on why? or what i can do to get it?
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See the link I posted earlier.... It will explain step by step how to do this.....
P&P Tuning
420.5whp / 359.8wtq
linky no worky... 404 error....
yea, i couldnt get the link to work. i figured it out though, i had to delete it off of my main table and then go and do it, then add it, so i tuned for about a hour and a half, the higher rpms are coming out good but i cant get the lower ones to smooth out, the afr is off by about .2 but i dont think that would throw me this much. i guess ill have to wait until z's z is free next week
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Now this is why I like the LC1 much more than the Uego. If you had an LC1 you could force it to send out a constant signal for you to test with and verify your voltage offset. But I dont think you can do those things with the Uego, or can you?
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
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Leafy wrote:Now this is why I like the LC1 much more than the Uego. If you had an LC1 you could force it to send out a constant signal for you to test with and verify your voltage offset. But I dont think you can do those things with the Uego, or can you?
I have the LC1 and do not do that, actually mine has always been on dot using the default in HPT for the LC1. My friends LC1 we have to do a small offset.
FU Tuning
Screaming for Mercy!! wrote:Leafy wrote:Now this is why I like the LC1 much more than the Uego. If you had an LC1 you could force it to send out a constant signal for you to test with and verify your voltage offset. But I dont think you can do those things with the Uego, or can you?
I have the LC1 and do not do that, actually mine has always been on dot using the default in HPT for the LC1. My friends LC1 we have to do a small offset.
if only HPT's presets worked when it's coming through the a/c pressure sensor pid, lol. And whats wrong with forcing the LC1 to output a signal to a single voltage? Innovate actually suggests doing it in order to compensate for voltage offsets.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
Leafy wrote:Now this is why I like the LC1 much more than the Uego. If you had an LC1 you could force it to send out a constant signal for you to test with and verify your voltage offset. But I dont think you can do those things with the Uego, or can you?
Nope I wish you could. Holding a signal would be awesome makes setup easy.
you can! you can unplug the sensor and it wil hold a steady 14.7 signal, im trying it once i get home tonight!
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