I've seen on here were people ask if it is worth tuning a n/a motor and I say yes 3 months ago I got min tuned by tony palo at t1 race development and gain 20 hp with all basic bolt ons and running 93 octane just a little info to throw out there
gained hp? where...? ok... well what happened with the torque?
got a graph before and after we can view?
Ill see if I still have my graph I loss 1 ft@lb of torque I gained 20 hp right around the 5000 rpm mark then it started dying off
Lost TQ...? WTF?
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
Basically you didnt gain any torque. A difference of 1 lbft is well within the dyno's error range.
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Still, I gained torque with an intake and cat back without a tune...
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
Its worth it. I hit 174 Whp with my mods (before 2.5 inch exhaust and alternator pulley)on stock injectors. De tuned to 166 Whp because of injectors. Getting re tuned in a week with new LSJ injectors with the new mods I just mentioned. I honestly believe I will hit 180 Whp. Most of you guys ain't gonna believe it but I will post up gains and graph as soon as I can!
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
im pretty sure i gained torque with my exhaust and intake when i put it on but that has nothing to do with what happened to my torque when they tuned the computer come on now
It has everything to do with it. It means your tuner sucks.
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
It may just mean that he started leaving out too early. Being in the 12.0 to 12.8 range make best torque normally but leaner will make better power up top (yes I realize the power is just torque x rpm / 5252). Remember, dyno runs can differ by about 5 lbft on the same dyno the same day under the same condition.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
That was something I didnt know. He tuned it out to were it as running as flat as possible at 14.7. I was manly just wanting power gains I understand torque is good but if u have no power u have no top end on the track and that's were I'm dying at
Oh jesus, 14.7 at wot? @!#$ son make him fix that, way too lean. When I said laney I meant like 13.4 at the leanest.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
So the positive thing to take out of this thread is that HP can be gained on a N/A engine w/ bolt on's & a good tune?
That was my whole point I was wanting to debate
We really need to debate if bolt ons add power?
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
Bolt ons add power only if you have a good tune. Otherwise the ecu will minimally compensate without a tune. I gained 11 Whp with le5 manifold for instance. Tuned I gained 20 Whp!
"FRIENDS DON'T LET FRIENDS DRIVE STOCK"
So your first sentence claims bolt ons don't add power... and your third says it does...
For the love of God... why is this even being contemplated... it's pretty obvious...
Paying someone to install parts and bragging about it being fast, is like watching someone bang your wife and being proud to raise their kids.
i wasnt wanting to debate sry about the typoi was just wanting to say that with a n/a motor and header intake exhaust that u can still get a pretty good gain 20 whp for 600 bucks ill take that anyday
Jeez guys, give this guy a break. He gained more HP from his bolt ons with a tune, why are you getting on his case? I think 20 WHP from a tune alone is pretty good, but the 14.7 at WOT is super lean and should be fixed.
Thanks fr that little bit there ill make sure I get on that the only reason we went with 14.7 is cause he felt it was a safe start considering it being a daily driver but tony is also the owner of injector dynamics and I'm about to do a full p&p 5 angle valve job with 1mm oversize valves and was thinking about upgrading the injectors so while I'm over there doing that ill see if we can make the tune more aggresive
14.7 is not safe at wot. Although a lot of GM cars now run it stock. And its not like its staying a daily very long, you are getting a 5 angle valve job after all.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
ur right it will probly only be a couple months and its off the road for good so we will see ill post an update of how much the p&p and stuff helped my track time as soon as i get the chance right now im running a 16.3 with a 2.6 60 ft time i cant rev the motor past 2k or i just spin and its only a really hard compound street tire
i need to make a correction on my afr i just found my afr graph and it looks like it is actually about 13.7 or 13.8 sorry for the incorrect info
Still, leaving power and torque on the table and thats also running hot. If you dropped that to 12.8 below 3500 rpm and tapered up to 13.4 by 4000 and held it to redline you'd gain power and torque. Then I bet you could add more timing too for even more gains.
1994 Saturn SL2 Home Coming Edition: backup car
2002 Chevy Cavalier LS Sport Coupe: In a Junk Yard
1995 Mazda Miata R-package Class=STR
Sponsored by:
Kronos Performance
WPI Class of '12 Mechanical Engineering
WPI SAE Risk and Sustainability Management Officer
