Here we have 2 Dyno runs,The first is the stock ecu tune modified for higher rev limiter, extended timing rampout, and both low octane tables replaced with values from high octane tables, running Sunoco 94 Octane, Knock eliminated. The second run is just the Stock ECU tune, no modifications. I actually ran both tunes twice, they both netted same results so the graph only shows 2 runs.
What are your thoughts?
Most the gain is in the low end,which possibly means there is more room for improvement by pushing spark table values past the stock high octane values. It will take some real tuning to find out what it is capable of, but for the sake of it, here is proof of some actual results.
Thanks to GMR Speed in Cleveland Ohio for help with the Dyno, if your in the area check them out. www.gmrspeed.com
The logs...
Hope this helps and inspires some people. When Im finished with my motors swap Im going to have the car professionally tuned at GMR and then we will see exactl what an N/A eco is capable of. These results serve as my baseline.
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hmmmm......k ? I don't see much of a gain ?
15.574 @ 89 mph stock without charger. new times with charger coming soon.
to be honest, that dyno is showing improvement in low to mid range, yes, but its mostly a useless part of the power band.... 4000rpm and higher is the most critical since you never dip below that during shifts. the increased power would only come in handy in getting out of the hole.
I'm very interested at how much power drops off by 7000rpm.. i know it doesn't feel like that much, but it just goes to prove that butt dyno don't mean @!#$
do you have any timing advance over the HO PE tables on top of this, or this is just a copy and paste situation only?
with a little more tuning, that power curve would stay flatter for longer.
plus, with head work and cams, the higher redline will really shine thru since most aftermarket cams are geared towards higher RPM anyway... also the better VE of a ported head will definetly shine as you try to pump more and more air thru it the higher the RPM goes.
interesting numbers, if I ever get mine strapped to a dyno again I'll have to do the same =)
these engines must vary from the factory....im an auto and with mods listed i dynoed 130 on a mustang dyno without the hptuners....anyway good starting numbers and with all those mods you have im sure it can only get better
For what its worth, here is my Mustang Dyno before 61mm throttle body.
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So these pulls were to 7k? Dang the power really drops off after 5400. That is sort of sad. Both my 2.4's all motor pulled almost even until 5700RPM and then only a slight drop in power until limiter.
FU Tuning
At least someone has stepped up and paid the price to see what is going on. I have not looked in your registry to see what mods you have, but I will be doing that soon. The graphs are just sad in general the way the power drops soo fast. That is kinda how I have always felt in my eco. Seems it pull great 3-5k and that is all.
Thanks for the information. I can't wait to see people actually using hp-tuners to do aggressive cam swaps and pump the compression. Not to mention the wide world of boost!
2004 Cavalier. Razzi. (Sold)
1998 Corvette. Some mods.
1992 Typhoon. Lots of mods.
1994 Civic VX 44MPG
From what I'm seeing is, that this is on a bone stock Eco motor. Was this with any bolt-ons, or stock set-up(i.e. stock I&E)?
The reason I'm asking, is I would think the top end would have held on the power a little bit longer. That graph looks about what it should be with the stock set-up, including the loss through the drive train.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Wednesday, July 19, 2006 7:58 AM
If you have all that stuff thats listed in your reg thats not making alot of sense, you should be at least 150 something
I dont think theres any question that the more mods you have especially boost the more gain there is
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
Look at his compression 8.9-1... Also Forged components are heavier then stock cast. Looks he was setting up for a boosted motor.
Just MHO.
"The FACTS are always subject to CHANGE once the TRUTH is applied"
"In the entire history of man the only stupid questions are the ones that don't get asked"
According to what he posted, he hasn't swaped the motor yet. I was wondering if he had the bolt-ons he had listed in his profile intsalled yet.
Forged @!#$ isn't always heavier than cast stuff. In fact it's designed to be lighter in many cases. It is definately the 8.9:1 compression that is killing the power and making it die so fast. DEFINATELY.
I used to race cars, now I race myself.
5K PB: 24:50
10K PB: 54:26
Guys not sure why you care so much about the dyno numbers, but FYI that motor is now sitting in my driveway
Yes it was a stock motor with all the bolt ons minus the internals listed in my profile.
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130hp but you've run a 15.1 1/4? Something seems off on that dyno graph.
SPD RCR Z -
'02 Z24 420whp
SLO GOAT -
'04 GTO 305whp
W41 BOI -
'78 Buick Opel Isuzu W41 Swap
dude, if you're registering less hp on a dynojet than you did on a mustang dyno, then something is seriously wrong with one of those dynos or the operator of one of them was either crooked, or a dumbass. Properly set up, a mustang should almost always read lower than a dynojet, unless its a situation where the dynojet doesn't have a roller heavy enough to generate enough load on a car with a really big turbo, and the car isn't seeing the proper boost. But an N/A car?
Black, could you just clarify which motor you did the N/A tune on? Was it the stock eco with bolt ons or the built eco without boost? Because something here doesn't add up
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
Stock motor with bolt ons, The dynojet didn't have the the extra piece that adds load installed, and the values weren't corrected, it was really hot out. Not sure what else to tell you.
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Quote:
The dynojet didn't have the the extra piece that adds load installed, and the values weren't corrected, it was really hot out. Not sure what else to tell you.
nope, that pretty much says enough right there... in other words, we can really only take this dyno with a grain of salt.
Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said
compression on this dyno was stock right ?
if your gonna dyno the 8.9 motor , id expect to see 100-110 hp from it
and DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) , that mid range increase is needed for street use and auto x , road racing , as well as needed for 1/4 mile
People don't get your panties in a bunch over the numbers, the point is to show percentage difference between the two tunes, as far as that goes the dyno gave consistant results.
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Team Vision Racing (aka hypsy) wrote:Forged @!#$ isn't always heavier than cast stuff. In fact it's designed to be lighter in many cases. It is definately the 8.9:1 compression that is killing the power and making it die so fast. DEFINATELY.
lmao
I wouldn't compare the two different dyno's from two different places. The conditions were different,
the dyno's were different brands, ect.
