already did a search and couldn't find anything, is there anyone who is running the ecotec purely off the megasquirt? if so what issues did you have and any tips for installation/


1st 1st gen on air.....

exterminator runs his 04 off of megasquirt, but i think at this point it only does fuel, and an MSD unit handles spark table modifications... He didn't have any major issues that I can recall but he's got a degree in electrical engineering soooo....... yeah.




Arrival Blue 04 LS Sport
Eco
Turbo
Megasquirt
'Nuff said

lol fair enough, the car it's going in will have none of the obd2 or class 2 wiring so that shouldn't be an issue.



1st 1st gen on air.....

I wrote this in another thread, but figured it might help you. Hit me up on msn and I'll fill in what I know about running ignition.

To hook the MS up on an Ecotec you need to do the following:

1. Tach signal. I personally made a small circuit to join the signals to the ICM and then ran it through a tach adapter to get a 12v square wave, but there are other solutions.

2. TPS signal. I just tapped into the existing sensor.

3. IAT I bought a MSD sensor (standard GM style) and welded a bung I made from a nut to my charge pipe. You can also buy the bungs from various places. You could also drill and tap your manifold, drill and use a second stock one or just tee into the stock one.

4. CLT I use a MSD sensor (standard gm style) for this and drilled/tapped a second location next to the stock sensor. You could also tap the stock sensor. I don't believe GM is using a variable resistance sensor becasue I actually replaced the stock one with another MSD sensor.

5. Vaccum reference. The MS has a built in map sensor capable of reading 2.5 bars total. 1bar is for vacuum and the remaining 1.5 bar is for boost. If you want to run over 20 psi you can upgrade this, although I'm not totally sure on the process, but I'm sure it's not too hard.

6. Power. You need a 12v constant and a 12v switched (ignition). For ignition I tapped into a wire undertha dash and ran it into a distribution block because I always need a 12v switched wire for something

7. Ground. Pretty simple, just find a decent ground and bolt the wires down.

8. Wire the injectors. I used some resistors in place of my stock injectors to prevent codes and just ran some new wire for my new injectors. You can use the stock harness and get really fancy but I also wanted to switch to low impedance injectors so it was easier to just run extra wires.

9. O2 sensor (optional). I wired my wideband output into the MS for logging and corrention. You don't have to do this (but it is highly recommended) or you can use a narrow band (I've done that too).

10. Tune tune tune and tune some more. I have had my days where I hated the MS but all in all I am a huge fan of it. It gives you so much control that it's easy to get confused or to mess up a setting, but it also has so many more options and add ons that you can tune it and customize it to your set up. It can be very forgiving at time but can also be a bitch at others. One of the hardest things is your cold start enrichments. Mine are still a little off becasue the weather has just started to change. On really cold mornings I have trouble starting (becasue I havn't updated my CSE's) so I have to prime the system a few times to get the extra fuel I need for start up. There are also some great tools out there to help you tune with the MS.

A few things I had to learn the hard way .....

1. Solder and heat shrink all connections. Butt connectors and the clip on ones just aren't good enough.
2. Finding a 12v switched wire that doesn't cut out while cranking is a pain in the ass.
3. With out loom wiring is ugly and people will think it's ghetto.
4. Tuning takes a long time, and you have to start all over every time you make a change to your set up.
5. The best place for the CLT sensor is in the stock location.
6. Getting a full tach signal is hard unless you know someone that has already done it.
7. The guys at the local electronics store suck.
8. You can never have big enough tables for tuning. 8x8 tables suck for tuning, it's more then worth the ten minutes to upgrade to the 12x12 tables.
9. It's worth paying for a preassembled unit, unless you really like building hardware.
10. Don't make your own harness, it's worth the $60 to buy one, plus the wires are all labled nicely.

Quote:

A few things I had to learn the hard way .....

1. Solder and heat shrink all connections. Butt connectors and the clip on ones just aren't good enough.
2. Finding a 12v switched wire that doesn't cut out while cranking is a pain in the ass.
3. With out loom wiring is ugly and people will think it's ghetto.
4. Tuning takes a long time, and you have to start all over every time you make a change to your set up.
5. The best place for the CLT sensor is in the stock location.
6. Getting a full tach signal is hard unless you know someone that has already done it.
7. The guys at the local electronics store suck.
8. You can never have big enough tables for tuning. 8x8 tables suck for tuning, it's more then worth the ten minutes to upgrade to the 12x12 tables.
9. It's worth paying for a preassembled unit, unless you really like building hardware.
10. Don't make your own harness, it's worth the $60 to buy one, plus the wires are all labled nicely.

LMAO. Only because I've BTDT with plenty of stuff like this.
-->Slow

It shows you how to hook it up fuel and spark on the msns-e web page.
If you havent read the ms manual go start there.

RobbieC been there done that, i was wondering if there was anything eco specific


1st 1st gen on air.....