Due to not buying the stimulator, I was at a disadvantage of not being able to download the firmware to the daughter board of my Megasquirt-II (because I didn't have a power source). Therefore, I completed soldering the ECM.
I hope this works, but, If I wire up my car, and cycle on, would this power my MS-II allowing me to download the firmware, and then eventually the base tune? Anyone who has had experience with this, would help me out greatly. I'm going to wire up the car tomorrow, and if I get no response by then, I will let you guys know how it goes. Thanks.
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
What's so hard about getting 12 volts to the MS? It's only two wires man. Just hook it up to your battery and then attempt the software upload.
Take this next comment for what it's worth. Thinking your MS will work right off the bat after soldering HUNDREDS of leads to the PCB is very foolish. I would still consider purchasing a stimulator at this point. That way, you'll know that when you do encounter your first problems with the system installed in the car that it's the fault of your wiring work versus your MS assembly work.
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The power supply works at least, because I was able to download the firmware. The map sensor is working, but I don't get a signal from anything else...examples
1) throttle reads 88% open all the time and doesn't fluctuate when I twist the throttle
2) unplugging the iat doesn't affect the reading or turn the window pink
3) Megatune reads low battery, when my voltmeter reads a steady 12v.
So yes...
Mr. Pute wrote:What's so hard about getting 12 volts to the MS? It's only two wires man. Just hook it up to your battery and then attempt the software upload.
Take this next comment for what it's worth. Thinking your MS will work right off the bat after soldering HUNDREDS of leads to the PCB is very foolish. I would still consider purchasing a stimulator at this point. That way, you'll know that when you do encounter your first problems with the system installed in the car that it's the fault of your wiring work versus your MS assembly work.
I agree 100%. Those transistors are a pain in the ass to solder, trying not to bridge the leads. That may be my problem internally, because I checked and rechecked all of the other soldered joints, and they look alright...but those pesky transistors are REEEAAALLLYYYY hard to see. Thanks again Pute and I think I will be ordering the stimulator tomorrow.
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
I hope you can see just how ironic this is, after all the arguing you've done in favor of MS.
FWIW, I bought a visor with magnifying lenses for just this type of work. It was about $17 at an electonics store and has improved my success rate tremendously. Temp controlled soldering irons, proper diameter solder, and correctly sized tips are all key to doing a very good job with a larger project.
-->Slow
slowolej wrote:I hope you can see just how ironic this is, after all the arguing you've done in favor of MS.
-->Slow
A poor product isn't a substitute for operator error. MS doesn't deserve a bad rap just because some idiot can't put the pieces together right.
Regardless though... I can chuck my unit in the garbage, buy a new fully assembled one and still be a little over the price of HPT.
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
Never said MS should have a bad rap. Neither should OEM, although it seems like some of the MS guys think otherwise. IMO the bad rap belongs to the guys charging $600 for tuning software then putting their hands back into your wallet each time you want to tune another vehicle.
Did you resolve the problems you were having?
-->Slow
slowolej wrote:Never said MS should have a bad rap. Neither should OEM, although it seems like some of the MS guys think otherwise. IMO the bad rap belongs to the guys charging $600 for tuning software then putting their hands back into your wallet each time you want to tune another vehicle.
Did you resolve the problems you were having?
Well...I found one problem. I spliced the wiring for MS-II and the J-body ECM together for the TPS, and that was what was giving me the odd throttle percentage. Although, when I run it directly to MS-II, none of the gauges work. Do I even need the TPS wired up anyways, if I'm going to be running Speed Density? The TPS needs to be attatched to the J-body ECM regardless, so that it knows when to shift, seeing as I have the 4t40e.
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
Others have run into the same problem trying to use the same sensor with multiple controllers. When the gauges didn't work, did you try connecting the TPS to the OE pcm and tying only the signal wire to MS? The TPS ground wire from MS may need to be tied to engine ground so MS has a way to measure incoming signal voltage. If you want you can monitor TPS signal voltage using a DVOM to see if it changes before and after connection to MS is complete.
I'm not much of an MS guy but most SD systems rely on TPS to trigger acceleration enrichment in anticipation of changes in manifold pressure. If MS uses TPS based AE you'll need TPS.
-->Slow
Quote:
tying only the signal wire to MS
I believe this is what I did and I have always had proper values on my software.
While the specifics are not fresh in my mind (been out of the scene a while), I do believe there is map based AE in the 'extra' code.
it sounds to me like you may not have the correct ini. file loaded into the Megatune software. try connecting your cable to your MSII and apply power. then, opening the megatune program, and pulling down the menu call "communications". you should see a bar labled "settings". make sure you have a COMM 1 and 115200 baud selected for MSII. then hit the "verify ECU communications". if megatune is configued correctly, it should say- "successful".
if it fails, lemme know, and ill show you how to fix that problem, if not, still lemme know and we'll try to figure something out.
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Everything is programmed correctly.
I found the problem I was having with the TPS. I have the TPS wired to MS-II and I have a switch with a 330 ohm resistor (may need to be larger or I may even need to wire in a potentiometer) connected to the stock PCM to switch between agressive or everyday driving. Everything works fine now. I just need to wait for the relays I ordered so that I can wire up the bypass and start the car. Thanks anyways guys.
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"Youth in Asia"...I don't see anything wrong with that.
