ok I have decided to make a custom hood for my 2nd gen cavalier. I well i figured it would take 3 days of solid sanding to get it done. So I applied tiger hair underneath and around the hood scoop. So all cracks and crevises are feeled then I let it drie. sanded it the very next day.... put primer on it and had to go to school in the rain. Came home parked it and started sanding.... sanded it then applied another coat of tiger hair. saned and then coated again to feel all pin holes and inperfections in. Now today I began sanding again.... as I was feather sanding it keeps falling out. little holes and such all around where I'm sanding seem to be like they are moist or are getting burnt from sanding or something..... I cant seem to figure out what I"m doing wrong. I dont see how it would be drawing water in it consider all the cracks and extra are feeled with tiger hair.... does the due at night cause this?? WHAT THE HELL IS IT CAUSE I"M GETTING TIRED OF IT!!!!-
Dude... you don't primer FIBERGLASS!!! you put filler (like Bondo) over fiberglass. Fiberglass is too pourous for primer. Put on some body filler... glazing putty/icing/ezsand if you wish... THEN prime...
you dont see what I mean. I knew this. I put primer on because I had to drive through the ran (sandable primer) and came home and began sanding. I guess i left a part out but I put 2 coats of tiger hair sanded then glazed with bondo then sanded and wholes began to form
Have you tried blowing the hood off with an air gun before adding the glaze? There is probably sanding dust in all of the little holes and all you doing is covering it up, then when you sand it all down the filler your sanding pulls that dust out with it causing more holes to re-appear. Also, Regular body filler isn't the greatest for filling small pinholes, you need to get a glazing putty. Its like regular body filler only its a little bit runnier so it fills in small holes a lot easier. If that still doesn't answer your question, then post a picture of it so we can see what your talking about.
it might just be a little of both thoughs factors.... I guess I will get some glazing putty sometime but I'm not going to get it today. but thank you all and if that dont work I will try something else. But do you think water will hurt it that much? cause I may rensie it off to get the dust out..... what you think
RJ Miller wrote:it might just be a little of both thoughs factors.... I guess I will get some glazing putty sometime but I'm not going to get it today. but thank you all and if that dont work I will try something else. But do you think water will hurt it that much? cause I may rensie it off to get the dust out..... what you think
You don't have an air gun?
Oh... you don't NEED to prime over body work to drive in the rain... we've done body work on cars on occasion... have to pull the car out... left it in the rain... and it was fine. Just have to make sure it's TOTALLY dry before priming. I'd recommend NOT priming until all of your body work is done.
Go get a can of CO2 from a computer store hehe....
[quote=¤§Fallen Angel§¤]Oh... you don't NEED to prime over body work to drive in the rain... we've done body work on cars on occasion... have to pull the car out... left it in the rain... and it was fine. Just have to make sure it's TOTALLY dry before priming. I'd recommend NOT priming until all of your body work is done.
What the heck. Yea let your fresh bodywork sit out in the rain unprotected. Make sure the body filler soaks up all the water it can so soon it can seap to the bare metal and rust it and cause all your filler to fall off. That had to be the most isiotic comment EVER. Anyways I think I know what your talkingabout when those little things flake when sanding.. usually caused by a cheap filler (like BONDO) or bad adhesion (stick it to shiny pain, or grinded metal?) or where you didnt blow the surface off good before applying and it is pealing up with the dust that was left..
i wouldn't let it get really wet with out primer on it, a little bit wont hurt it, but water body filler will soak up the water and then eventually fall off.
on another note if you get bored while sanding, take some of the shavings that came off of the cheese grader, and put them in a small pile away from everything, and then light it, it burns pretty good. We do this in the shop at school all the time.... Dont worry, the teacher is the one who showed us this, so its not like its unsupervised or anything.
The best way to get the dust out without using water and air would be a microfiber rag, rub it over the hood a few times and it should pull all of the dust out.
www.WinksOnline.com wrote:[quote=¤§Fallen Angel§¤]Oh... you don't NEED to prime over body work to drive in the rain... we've done body work on cars on occasion... have to pull the car out... left it in the rain... and it was fine. Just have to make sure it's TOTALLY dry before priming. I'd recommend NOT priming until all of your body work is done.
What the heck. Yea let your fresh bodywork sit out in the rain unprotected. Make sure the body filler soaks up all the water it can so soon it can seap to the bare metal and rust it and cause all your filler to fall off. That had to be the most isiotic comment EVER. Anyways I think I know what your talkingabout when those little things flake when sanding.. usually caused by a cheap filler (like BONDO) or bad adhesion (stick it to shiny pain, or grinded metal?) or where you didnt blow the surface off good before applying and it is pealing up with the dust that was left..
Dude... if it ain't sitting for DAYS in HEAVY RAIN it's not a HUGE deal. This is something that RARELY happened... but we've never had any problems... nothing has rusted or fallen out... EVER. NEVER had anything come back. I didn't say I recommended it... you didn't need to get an attitude about it
yeah yeah peps.... its all good now. Its probably a diversity of the problems. It is cheep bondo and I just whiped it with a rag gently before adding bondo... So I'm going to pick out all soft spots and then go over with a GLAZING putty....
Sorry, I just think thats the wrong thing to do. If I had some filler get wet I would rip it all out and redo it before i tried painting over it b/c i wouldnt want to have to do it again later. I guess everyones different tho.
www.WinksOnline.com wrote: Sorry, I just think thats the wrong thing to do. If I had some filler get wet I would rip it all out and redo it before i tried painting over it b/c i wouldnt want to have to do it again later. I guess everyones different tho.
There's a lot of debates or whatnot in the exterior forum about methods. Different people have different preferred methods. I'm not saying that I'd recommend getting your bondo/filler whatever wet... just that the FEW times we have had filler get wet we've had no problems. I do understand what you're saying though.
Fallen Angel.......I do autobody every day as well and know what you mean....There is nothing wrong with getting bodyfiller wet (it's pretty much a type of plastic if you think about it).........so long as it is dryed well later. The only thing I would be worried about is the bare metal in the rain doesn't take long for rust to start.
RJ Miller what is your hood scoop made out of ....is it fiberglass or plastic ........whether it is either one the fiberglass/filler won't stick to it if it isn't scratched up real good (sanded with like 40 grit)will do. If you left it smooth the filler will start peeling back. If the scoop is plastic and you are feather edging it onto the scoop the sander will heat up the plastic and cause it to peel back as well. But like 95CaviRider said ...post some pix if you can so we can see what exactly you are talking about ........and we'll try to help you out.
coolfire
Yeah I like to NOT leave bare metal out in moisture... if there's bare metal I like to prime it before it goes outside... well I prefer doing it that way anyway... but if there's still body work to do... it's rather pointless... blah... I could be giving different situations and circumstances all day... so I"ll sum it up as...
Different situations... different actions...
but thanks coolfire...
TRD Cav Fire wrote:Go get a can of CO2 from a computer store hehe....
Only you would think of that one..
2004 Chevy Cavalier
2.2 Ecotec
Modified all to hell
Forged Internals
Nitrous Oxide
pay a professional to do it !
RJ Miller wrote:yeah yeah peps.... its all good now. Its probably a diversity of the problems. It is cheep bondo and I just whiped it with a rag gently before adding bondo... So I'm going to pick out all soft spots and then go over with a GLAZING putty....
a graduate of the frig-em-all industries jerry jefferson vocabulary builder upper
pay a pro? what good would it do me to be a automotive hobbiest? lol I never thought about sanding the (fiberglass) scoop for it to stick.... damn it why can't I remember these things lol
