I'm one of those northeast salty road guys and my car has seen it all. I searched the forums and haven't found any threads dealing with just this one topic in particular, so I'm starting one. Basically I'd like to see opinions from everyone on what to do about rust (or preventing it) on different components of the car.
I have seen hundreds of different rust stripper/convertor/repainter/etc. treatments. What proceedures and specific products do you suggest for each component of the car? Is there anything you suggest NOT using? From what I've seen, the major rust targets are the following:
- Exhaust systems. Personally I have a stainless steel exhaust, but after a few months it has developed extensive surface rust. Exhaust components get extremely hot. What do you suggest for treatment that will withstand the heat?
- Brake components. Calipers, drums, inner bolt pattern of rotors, etc. Not only do these parts get extremely hot... they also take a huge amount of physical abuse from sand/salt kicked around the wheel area.
- Suspension components. These get a lot of physical abuse (probably more then brake components) from debris kicked up by the wheels. Strut housings are pretty rigid, but any coating applied to coil springs needs to flex with the spring.
- Metal tubing. This includes brake and fuel lines.
- Other underside parts, which include: Knuckle/spindle (which will weld to the bearing assembly with rust), control arms, subframe, steering tie rod ends, underside body panels.
I'm looking for any advice you can give for taking one of these rusty parts and converting it to a nice looking part with a rust-inhibiting finish.
Thanks!
- Ken
'99 Z24, Manual
1. Body rust needs to be cut off. Nothing will convert or treat rust back to metal.
2. Exhaust systems can be coated (when new) with extremely high temp paint, you lose the shine, but it shouldn't rust.
3. Brakes can also be painted. Rusted drums and rotors can just be replaced, they are generally cheap anyway.
4. Suspension can also be painted, but do it when its new or removed of rust (wire wheel it off).
5. Metal tubing that is usually used for brake and fuel lines doesn't rust, so you shouldn't have a rust issue with it.
6. Underbody coating, a lot of body shops offer this.
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is there rust neutralizer? Like grind off all corosion and slap some neutralizer then hit over is with driveway sealer or somthing?
only way to get rid of it is to cut it out and weld in a new piece
This stuff works well. Interacts with existing rust and chemically converts it to a neutral black surface, which also serves as a primer.
The best "it works" example that I can think of is when my Dad used it on some metal clothesline posts. Heavily corroded. I am not sure what he did to prep them, but he did use the rust treatment on them. Still standing today, after numerous years.
I have used it on minor rusting surfaces on my non-j-body. None of the places have re-rusted. Does not stay on exhaust though. I think it only works up to 200 something degrees.
<img src="http://www.webgraffiti.it/gif/smile12/smile197.gif"></img>
the loc tite product you pic above is a generic compound similar to naval jelly that was created for guess who? the navy!!! and can you think of why they needed something like that? heh, i can! anyhow it does "neutralize" it but that just means it wond spread, for a while. its pretty much impossible to stop rust once its started, thats just physics and science, i can be blocked for awhile and even slowed but nothing will stop it.
there is however a wonder product that will damn near stop it, its called por-51. ive restored many cars that were pillaged by cleveland ohio winters and the @!#$ is awesome, you can hammer on it and it wont ship or rust through. weve treated entire undersides of cars with it, with amazing results. it also comes in different colors so look it up and have some fun!!!!!
personally, i try to wash my car as much as possible during the winter and spray underneath it and on the suspension too (i use the do it yourself pressure washer car washes) to try to get everything off my car before it starts to eat into it.
as far as things like rotors, drums, brakes lines and fuel lines-just replace. that stuff's not too expensive and it's not really anything you wanna have half-@$$.
for exhaust, if it's GOOD stainless steel then it shouldn't rust, or at least not that quick. only thing i've really heard to keep exhausts in good shape would be ceramic coated, but that's expensive and i don't really know how much of a full exhaust you can get like that.
and panels i would cut out and replace. weld a new piece in.
hope that's what you were lookin for. i personally wouldn't trust a neutralizer, but that's just me.
-john
Just dont be a retard and bondo over the rust like half the retards in tennessee do.
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I used the Bondo rust convertor stuff in the same style bottle (it's a pink jelly) on my struts recently. It did some conversion to black but when I tried to paint over it the paint just fell off. I sanded it down again and used a different product called "Stop Rust" or something... sorry I don't have the bottle handy but it was a blue-green liquid and seemed to work much better. It converted more and the paint stuck to it (at least for now).
What paint brands/types are best for a durable rust-proof finish?
So for exhaust... do you think sanding the rust off my stainless exhaust and applying a high-temp paint would work? What brands would you suggest, and is there a better treatment for high temp parts?
As for wax panel filler and body undercoating, what brands work best? I have seen mixed opinions about using these traditional body rust prevention steps on newer cars.
More questions.... Can ceramic coating be applied on existing parts? Also, has anyone tried a black oxide finish for protection? What about getting parts plated (nickle plating comes to mind)?
'99 Z24, Manual
Just an update... I've been doing an insane amount of research on this subject. I just sent out a bunch of pins for sample platings so I can do my own tests. In the meantime, here's a link to the most conclusive unbiased site I've found:
http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/index.htm
It's a little hard to navigate but they have tons of information.
- Ken
'99 Z24, Manual
