Ok so i have already painted some fiberglass and it looks good now how do i paint something that has already been painted? say a trunk form a junk yard? how do i strip the paint and prep it?
get a hold of a palm sander then using 100 grit paper sand every thing thats gonna be painted, then sand with 400 wet and clean then prime and do what ever
many changes in the making
my favorite part about doing bodywork,.......... bondo bugers
100 grit???? using 100 grit you'll tear through it wayyyy too fast.
To the OP... how much painting experience do you have?
Nick, you're not spray painting a trunk lid are you?? if so, bring it over to me, ill take care of u
Fallen Angel wrote:100 grit???? using 100 grit you'll tear through it wayyyy too fast.
100 would be too fast? You sure about that? I would assume you'd want to use something smaller to get it off faster and down to bare? Then again, I'm not a body expert, but why 100?
lol 100 grit is like gravel glued to paper. Im no body work expert either but I would think that would be too rough.
You should be able to just knock down the clear and then prep/paint like normal. Someone please correct me if I am wrong as I don't want to spread wrong info.
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if its a metal door or trunk out of the junk yard then he could use 60 and still be fine, i use 100 all the time on fiberglass with no problems, nick, ill see you tomorrow, i go over everything
many changes in the making
my favorite part about doing bodywork,.......... bondo bugers
100 is way to fast, use 320 on a DA and if your just painting it thats all you need to use as long as you arent fixing dents or anything. make sure you wash it first and use wax/grease remover on it. then after your done sanding it wash it again and use some spirit wipe on it. then tac it and paint
Joey Baggs (Eazy716) wrote:Nick, you're not spray painting a trunk lid are you?? if so, bring it over to me, ill take care of u
jesus joey, what dont you do?
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joe, we should get together some time and swap some ideas, nick said u live near darien, i live near arcade shoot me an IM some time
many changes in the making
my favorite part about doing bodywork,.......... bondo bugers
sounds good man. im located in lancaster/depew. basically at transit and walden if you know where that is.
we should definately get together sometime.
oh, and Brenden, only thing i dont do is rip apart engines. anything else, i can hook you up.
if hes just painting it and t doesnt need any body work cant he just take some 600 wet and paint it? or use a scoch brite on it?? phil
^^^well, i think he's looking to shave the handles and locks, or maybe just locks. not positive. so if thats the case, no
if he just needs it repainted, then i personally would hit it with a 500 DA to knock down the clear, then a scotch brite
but i guess it depends if it just need re-cleared or completely painted and cleared
Exodus 259 wrote:Fallen Angel wrote:100 grit???? using 100 grit you'll tear through it wayyyy too fast.
100 would be too fast? You sure about that? I would assume you'd want to use something smaller to get it off faster and down to bare? Then again, I'm not a body expert, but why 100?
Yes I'm sure about that... I did auto body and paint for years for a living. We rarely used anything rougher than 320 grit
Damn, learn something new everyday, lol. I would figure to use smaller grits for faster results, but like you said, you've done it for a while so you know what you're doing.
^^^for fiberglass or something like that, ya, but paint on top of steel, thats way overkill. you dont want gouges in the metal. 320 is the roughest grit id use on only clear/paint over the body metal.
