I've read tons of posts here, and I know you guys say the ONLY way to do it, is to do it right.
Well to get my car repainted RIGHT, would cost me a few grand. and the even if I find someone cheap, the cost of the paint is getting closer to what the car is worth.
Problem:
Clear coat is blistering/peeling. Mainly on the tops of the doors, and the roof, but noticing it around the trunk as well.
Car: 2001 Black Sunfire 2.2l Auto coupe.
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Question:
How to slow down/stop the clear peel, short of a new paint job?
you dont need a new paint job. i dont think there is a way to stop it from peeling though. take it to a shop, have them wet sand the clear off and reclear the whole car or clear the areas that are peeling.
alright, i'll have to find out how much that will cost. right now just asked about full paint jobs. from good quality shops, and they charge good quality prices, i'll have to ask about the wet sand/clear.
I'm an example of someone who did it wrong. I pulled the door moldings off my 97 Cavy last fall, and most of the clear coat came off with them. Rather than do the smart thing, which was replace the moldings and forget about it, I decided I wanted to keep them off. I wet-sanded the area to the best of my feeble ability, and ran over it with a couple of coats of rattle-can clear. A few days later, I sanded again, and waxed over the result. It's held up about 6-months so far. I'm taking bets on when the whole thing rusts at once.
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wow, the previous owner(s) must not have ever waxed it.
my paint is older than yours, and its fine. ive noticed that though, some gm cars come out ok, and others just CRAP when it comes to paint.
good luck geeky.
the paint thing just bugs the crap out of me, because it is a GM defect... but since my car is old now its not under warrenty.
and i'll defend most gm quality, but some stuff like this cheap paint just paints them bad, my car has 105k on it, (about 15k miles a year), and mechinically is fine, even most of the interoir is fine. But the pealing paint is going to make it look like a hooptie.
z yaaaa wrote:wow, the previous owner(s) must not have ever waxed it.
my paint is older than yours, and its fine. ive noticed that though, some gm cars come out ok, and others just CRAP when it comes to paint.
It's been in my family since in was purchased. It maybe didn't get a lot of TLC, but I'm pretty sure it was waxed regularly. The funny thing is that I get compliments all the time on the paint -- my father is pissed off that my car takes a shine better than his 2004 Malibu.
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Just crappy paint.....I would have them sand off the clear....and re-clear it if possible.
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
There's no way to really stop it once it starts... and the only way to fix it is to have it repainted.
And honestly... if there's no body work you want done, it really should not cost any more to repaint the whole care (base and cleaer) than it would to just redo the clear. MOST of what you're paying for as far as a paintjob goes is the labor (just talking standard paint job here, no body kit installations, fancy stuff etc). The actual paint itself is not very expensive at all.
For a full overall paint job... only exterior, no jams or anything like that... you need to disassemble the car (take out headlights, tail lights, trim pieces, etc)(well a reputable shop would anyway), clean the surface to be painted, sand down the whole car, clean it again and hit it with wax and grease remover, tape up anything that needs taped up, clean it again (they should anyway), use a tack cloth to pick up and dust particles, and spray the car down. (that's just a BASIC run down).
I would be highly surprised if they charged less to just reclear it than to just respray the whole thing... even if they did, I highly doubt it would be that much of a discount honestly.
What you have to figure out is this...
1. How is the car running mechanically? Is it incredibly reliable? Do you plan on having this car for a long time to come yet?
2. Yes any type of body work/paint is expensive... if you want it done right. Sure, you can go to Maaco and spend less than a grand on a full paint job... but 1-2 years down the road you'll be facing the same problems, you'll have overspray all over the place, and if you want to fix it again, you'll end up spending just as much on multiple Maaco trips as you would have taking it to a reputable shop in the first place, and the paint will last a whole lot longer.
3. Always go to a shop that will guarantee their work.... if they won't, turn around and walk out the door.
So, if the car is mechanically sound, just go to a reputable shop and have it repainted. Yeah it'll be a few grand, but you'll have a paint job that will last. And remember... most of the cost of just a paint job is labor... as well as materials. The Labor rate at most shops I"ve worked at factor in materials such as tape, paper, cloths, cleaning chemicals, plastic sheeting, etc etc. Those things do add up after a bit... so they NORMALLY factor that into the labor rate as well.
Hope that helped.
RE: Fallen Angel
I won't quote your post because its long.
But what you said was true.
I just had some body work done, my door lock was punched and needed a plate welded in, and the new whole shapped, and some paint.
I took it to a number of shops, and settled one that sounded like they knew what they were talking about. (mainly because they were saying things that anyone on the board that knows stuff about painting was talking about).
With the dings taken out of my doors/ panels, the rough verbal quote was between 3500~4000 dollars. which sounds very reasnoable. The guy said he would do everything you are talking about, (take stuff out, trim, lights etc, even hit the jams, just a total paint job).
I'm like how much to clear, his like theres no point, because he would do all the same work just to clear it then to repaint. A color change he said would probably cost about a grand more, because it would require more paint, and since the shop wants their stuff to look perfect, he would have to really do alot of work to make it look good.
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I was just hoping there was a way to slow down the peal, becuase the bigger it gets the faster it seems to go.
And while the car runs good, I do not see my self owning it 2 ~3 years longer. I like it but by then it will be with me almost 10 years and i'd like something new.
The car has also been very well taken care of, esspically early on, lots of baths (hand wash) and good quality waxes. Tried most of the best brands, but the car always looked best with meguires glod class wax as a final coat, with a good polish before hand. shined a ton.
It is a gm problem, I've seen it on alot of sunfires, mainly darker colors. (like mine being black).
So i'm looking of something short of a paint job, that will slow down this cancer on the paint for about 2 years.
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So far my opitions are:
1) Do nothing... paint will peal, within the next year or 2 I expect to be missing good chunks of clear.
Cost: Nothing.
2) Repaint and do it right. (i'm not paying maco for the junk they do.. I think my car would actually look worse.
Cost: 3000-5000 dollars .
3) Something else? Is there anything else?
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If the end result is a total paint job, or peeling paint, is there harm in doing what geeky did? wet sand the area, and can spray the clear?
my clear is peeling on my black cav. @!#$ it i dont care. i still rock it to and from work everyday
geeky- lol, i was talkn to the OP.
z yaaaa wrote:geeky- lol, i was talkn to the OP.
Thats cool. Nobody listens to me anyways.
I achieved my goal of hiding my paint flaws from anybody more than 10 feet away. If you venture closer, you're greeted with this:
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michal olechowski wrote:RE: Fallen Angel
I won't quote your post because its long.
But what you said was true.
I just had some body work done, my door lock was punched and needed a plate welded in, and the new whole shapped, and some paint.
I took it to a number of shops, and settled one that sounded like they knew what they were talking about. (mainly because they were saying things that anyone on the board that knows stuff about painting was talking about).
With the dings taken out of my doors/ panels, the rough verbal quote was between 3500~4000 dollars. which sounds very reasnoable. The guy said he would do everything you are talking about, (take stuff out, trim, lights etc, even hit the jams, just a total paint job).
I'm like how much to clear, his like theres no point, because he would do all the same work just to clear it then to repaint. A color change he said would probably cost about a grand more, because it would require more paint, and since the shop wants their stuff to look perfect, he would have to really do alot of work to make it look good.
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I was just hoping there was a way to slow down the peal, becuase the bigger it gets the faster it seems to go.
And while the car runs good, I do not see my self owning it 2 ~3 years longer. I like it but by then it will be with me almost 10 years and i'd like something new.
The car has also been very well taken care of, esspically early on, lots of baths (hand wash) and good quality waxes. Tried most of the best brands, but the car always looked best with meguires glod class wax as a final coat, with a good polish before hand. shined a ton.
It is a gm problem, I've seen it on alot of sunfires, mainly darker colors. (like mine being black).
So i'm looking of something short of a paint job, that will slow down this cancer on the paint for about 2 years.
---------------
So far my opitions are:
1) Do nothing... paint will peal, within the next year or 2 I expect to be missing good chunks of clear.
Cost: Nothing.
2) Repaint and do it right. (i'm not paying maco for the junk they do.. I think my car would actually look worse.
Cost: 3000-5000 dollars .
3) Something else? Is there anything else?
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If the end result is a total paint job, or peeling paint, is there harm in doing what geeky did? wet sand the area, and can spray the clear?
How wide spread? is itthe whole car? or????
Not the whole car.
theres a few areas.
The one thats going the fasest is the roof edge on the drivers side.
It was very small last year, but this year its getting to be dime and nickel size clear peal. it goes from the weatherstripping to about 3 inches into the roof (I have a sun roof so about 1/3 of the way from the door edge to the edge of the sunroof.
its smillar on the passanger side, with the addition that the passange side door top edge also has some peal on it.
how is the rest of the clear on the car?? If the clear on the rest of the car is fine, clean and wax it regularly and it MIGHT be ok. The roof will need repainted. Do you have any pictures of the different panels on the car so I could get a better idea???
i'll get you pictures today.
sorry again, i got it to show in the profile
Wow, I had no idea a good quality paint job would cost 3500-5000 bucks. I have been thinking of doin some calling around, expecting to pay around 1000-1500 for a fairly good quality paint job and some minor ding repair. I'm gonna have to save longer. lol
Greg Z. wrote:Wow, I had no idea a good quality paint job would cost 3500-5000 bucks. I have been thinking of doin some calling around, expecting to pay around 1000-1500 for a fairly good quality paint job and some minor ding repair. I'm gonna have to save longer. lol
It really depends on the shop and location. One perfectly good shop here wanted $1800 to repaint my whole car, while another wanted $2700. Meanwhile my uncle said the cheapest he could find in Tampa for his Mustang was a little over $3000 so it really does depend on a lot of factors.
Quote:
heres the link, but its not liking me
I'd look into getting individual panels repainted. I don't know if it'll make a difference price-wise but unless every single panel is peeling and you plan to keep the car for more than few years, you don't need to have the whole car repainted. Might even look into painting it yourself if you can pull it off.
if it's just hte roof... just get the roof repainted...
