Hey folks, I've done a little searching on this, and I figure I'd make a post to kinda consolidate everything.

Got the 2005 Altima SE-R, but someone at the dealership effed up before delivery, and cracked the driver's side lower valance/Side skirt/whatever. It's a piece of plastic (not sure if it's FRP, or Urethane or what... I'm not experienced with body work) but it's kinda bent off. Before I go and do something moronic next year like... using cyano-acrylate (or Crazy-Glue ) on it, what's the proper stuff to use? I really REALLY don't want to replace the panel (SE-R's use a 1 piece panel, SE/S models use 2 pieces). I read that there's a 3M or Fusor product, and if that's used, what's the Prep like? Degrease/sand apply and secure with masking tape? I'm not a twit, but I'd like a nickel tour of what to do. If it's incredibly involved, I'll just get the dealership to fix it, they already know who messed it up.

Secondly, I have a ton of clear coat scratches on the rear bumpers and doors. ScratchX isn't doing it to get these suckers out. Has anyone got a favoured product that an amateur can use to clean this up? As far as paint chips, I already have that covered, but, I want the repairs to more or less blend. Granted, I need some work with the DA polisher, but I'll start slow so I don't burn out the clearcoat, promise There's other things that I'm going to have to get done (there's weird bubbling on the left rear door near the window, it's not rust, just the clear coat) but obviously, if I can do it myself, I'd rather.

Thanks ladies and gents.

Are you using Scratch-X properly? A lot of people don't... The best way to use it, is to apply the compound to your buffing pad, buff, re-apply more compound to the pad, buff again, and repeat one or two more times. THEN you remove it with a microfiber cloth.



" To study and not think is a waste. To think and not study is dangerous. "

best thing to do is take the skirt off and see if there are any letters on it. i didnt read the whole post so if you did this sorry. if there are no letters on it take a grinder to the back side of it and zing it a little. if it melts the best way to repair it is plastic weld it. if it powders most of the time it is unable to be plastic welded and will have to be adhesive repaired. or if you can cut a small chunk off somewhere inconspicous (sp?) then put the chunk in a bucket of water, push it under the water and see if it floats or sinks. this will also tell you if its thermo or thermoset plastic (able to be plastic welded or not). i am quite noligable in plastic repair so if you want to pm me with details or have any questions feel free.

any pics of the damage? If the dealership knows who messed up the car, and they're willing to take responsibility and fix it on their dime, I'd have them do it... but if you'd like to wing it, do you have a pic of the extent of the damage?

as far as the scratches go... how deep are they? For example, if the scratches run East to West, if you run your fingernail in a North to South direction, does your nail catch on the scratch?

Fallen: I really hoped you'd answer this one

I'll get close ups if you need, but basically this is what I have on-hand:

The Scratches seem to be mainly in the clear. There are a few where I've tried about 3-4 applications (by hand) of ScratchX after re-mixing in the tube... the big part in the back feels like it's about 2000-2500 grit sand paper. The big area on the left side is actually the scuffed area, there's other minor scratches as well. I can't catch a nail on any of them. If it got that bad, I'd get a jar of touch-up, some paint thinner and a fine brush (the person that had the car before me didn't believe in doing it right, there's TONS of really nasty scratch fixes) and some Langka or some other liquid abrasive to take the glob down a bit. I've had black cars, and while they look awesome, they're a serious PITA to keep and drive

Anyhow, The busted skirt:

It's hanging there literally by the back flap. If it breaks off this year, I'm going to leave it until next year and just pay out for the piece and paint, but I'd obviously like to avoid that because piece is about $195 CDN and about another $100 to paint, I may pull some strings but that's what I'm getting told right now.

The dealership (not a Nissan Dealer) isn't accepting responsibility, and I'm pretty sure I'm not going to deal with them after the BS I got put through (Tried to sell at a higher price than advertised, almost sold the car to another person that was going to pay the other price, sold the car to me with tires that barely passed safety after giving me a story that they replaced the tires with stock Bridgestone Pole Positions for $1500, not giving me a full tank of gas on delivery, not cleaning the interior properly, charging me a $150 admin fee to pay out an old parking ticket on my record, ultra low-balling my Alero at $500 when they took a rusted out cavvy for $3000... you get the idea ). I have a Nissan Dealer that is doing 100% of the service, and honours the warranty I bought, but in this case it's not covered, and I'm not setting foot at the other place.

Anyhow, If necessary, I have some cleaners/degreasers and some black "automotive goop" and can secure it until it sets (I have the Alero still for the winter warrior) but I'm not sure it's the right stuff for the job... I want to do this only once... and if I have to get it painted professionally or what not, I will, but $300 in my pocket is better than in someone else's.


Dave Dunsmoor: I followed the directions, and tried on a small patch of the scuffed area (by hand, I don't have my DA buffer here) 3-4 times, and it helped a bit, but didn't really do much. I'm going to give it a bit, because I'm going to detail the sh*t out of the paint, and while I'm at it, I'll get those areas. I figure it'll take me a good weekend to get everything I want done.

Primer: I'll give it a look. If I can help not having to discombobulate everything (there's 2-3 pieces to take off, and I'm horrendously lazy when it comes to doing things like that) I'd prefer it. If there's a plastic bonding agent that will work with it, I'm game.

Cheers, thanks all




Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Sunday, September 16, 2007 12:53 PM

So the piece is cracked? How was it originally secured? Double sided tape/push pins? Screws/bolts? What exactly is the extent of the damage on it? Close ups? Can't really see much from the pics and I'm not quite following EXACTLY what the extent of the damage is. Either way, to fix it properly (assuming it is completely fixable) you're going to have to remove that entire piece and also find out exactly what type of plastic it is to determine the proper way of doing the repair. Please pardon my slow brain, it decided to leave after subjecting it to learning stuff again... and I'm just now getting into my "learning groove" lol.

The scratches, sounds like it needs to be wet sanded and buffed out. The "general rule of thumb" with scratches is if your nail catches on it/them, it needs repainted. If that's not the case, a wet sand and buff should work.

ROCKER PANEL MOLDING
it is cracked and help on by clips and sometime double sided tape, you have no experience and ya need knowledge in plastic repair and i can not teach you or show you online how to repair the molding, if the dealer did it take it to them let them deal with it
just the material alone is going to be expensive just take it back


can i haz bondo

GAM to fix the skirt here it is lol...
76851-ZB710 new skirt :-)

^^^ Got the P/N from Nissan, but the list in Canada plus paint is about $300. I need something a LOT cheaper... like.. $25, or a Cheezburger... Or Breakfast burritos... I could deal with having to buy Breakfast burritos... or a McDonalds/Burger King/Wendy's Cheezburger... But I don't think I'd buy a Harvey's Cheezburger, I'd hurt myself if I did that because I'd be a baaaaaaaad baaaaaaaaaaaad boooooy.




uh...
Anyhow, I already asked at a couple dealerships, and they're giving me the sameish prices. I already dumped about $600 into new tires (Hankook Ventus HRII's, stock size) and I'm kinda tapped ATM. I just got my vet bills for my Cat (He's lethargic and not eating ) and that's messed up the budget for this month... So, cheap fixes before I put it away for winter are gewd.


big daddy:
Yeah, I'm not holding my breath on that. I've found out that a lot of people have had problems with their "Pre-Enjoyed" centre, and it's basically run at arm's length from the main dealership. I'm not going to go to litigation over this, and they're more or less not willing to fix it. It suits me just fine, I don't want to deal with them either.


Fallen:
I was kinda hoping you weren't going to say that... I'll pass it by a friend that's a detailer, and see if he thinks he can do anything, but if worse comes to worst, I'll take it to an auto-body place and get them to give it a look. For the side-skirt, I'll find out: I'm not going to buy anything this year if I have to replace the panel. What happened (I'm guessing) is that someone @ the dealership was driving it like a ninny and beached it on one of their huge-ass speed bumps/Robbie Knievel orbital launch ramps. Basically, I'm not going to the dealership to get them to fix it... I don't want the hassle.



Thanks again ladies and gents and Paul.