As for the trunk, dig out the epoxy or whatever they used to close up (could have been fiber-all/tiger hair) and weld the holes shut. Spot welding would work fine for those. When I did mine I cut little metal discs about the size of a half dollar coin and welded them up from inside the trunk. If you don't have a welder, find someone that does, may try to glass things shut when they shave wings and tails, but it WILL separate from the metal in time. Welding is the only right way to do it.
As for the cracks, if they are through the fiberglass, you will need to re-glass those. A little angle die grinder will work great to clean up the area; make you work area larger than the actual damage. I like to grind out the inside of the bumper first, then apply a fiberglass "patch", you can go 4-5 layers of cloth to make sure it is strong. When that is dry and set, then grind off the front side and glass a patch there. Grind/sand off til level with the surface, lay a thin coat of filler, sand level. and repeat as needed. Then you can prime it.
For the small cracks, if they are only in the gel coat (more or less surface scratches) sand into the primer then lay down a coat of filler then sand smooth.
Hope that gets you started.
Where are you located? Your profile doesn't say, if you happen to be in/near NE PA I can give you a hand with the body work.
No i am from Newtonville Ontario (thats in canada) but i do appritiate the help that would have been awsome. I just gotta find time now and buy the sh*t to do it. What sand paper should i buy because my dad says to wet sand it but what grit?
i wouldnt really wet sand it...wet sanding is more or less for finish coats and clear....
for any glass work you do, I usually use a die grinder with a 40 grit pad to cut down the glass, then for filler (I recommend using Evercoat Rage Gold or Rage Extreme..NO Bondo!) shape it out with 60-80 grit, then work up to 220 grit, and maybe even go to 320 grit. Once it's smoothed out, primer (I like using a high build filler primer just to help fill in any sanding scratches, use about 2-3 medium coats of primer) then sand that starting with 120 grit, and work up to about 320 or 400 grit before painting. Clear after painting and if you really want to get an extra shine out of it you can wet sand (use 800, 1000, 1500, then 2000 grit) but there is really no need to if you are just matching the factory paint on the rest of car.
Oh and when you paint and clear (assuming you are using a paint gun and not rattle cans) make sure you aren't using urethane based paint since it can be pretty deadly stuff if you aren't spraying in a booth with an air supply breather. (which is a lot of places like Eastwood and other catalogs try to pass off as safe paint) - I like using Dupont Centari acrylic enamals, they are easy to work with, nice finish and quality, and are ok to spray with just a cartridge respirator.
What should i do where he put caulking for the side skirts?
Did he use it to attach the skirts? If so, first get it off obviously. You should be able to get a putty knife around the edges to get the skirts loose enough to pull off, then get the rest of the caulking off the skirt and body. If you want the skirts to be removable, most people run 3m double sided tape (I like the red stuff) along the bottom of the door at the rocker where the top of the skirt sits, then sink either a few screws or rivets where the skirt lays into the wheel well. If you want a more permanent bond I like to use Norton Speed Grip Urethane 2 part epoxy (I think a lot of guys here also like a similar product made by Fuzor). Its a 2 part structural adhesive that will bond the fiberglass to the metal (just make sure sand off the paint down to bare metal where you are going to put the epoxy, it wont adhere properly to paint or primer). Most auto body/paint suppliers carry it, and sometimes you can find it on ebay. It basically a double barrel caulking tube with a mix tip, you apply that to the joining area, lay the skirt on, then clamp til dry. Great product, I had my sides and rear attached with that stuff for almost 3 years and never had any issues with cracking, etc. I like using the 5 minute work time, but you can also get it with 15 min working time which should give you plenty of time to get the skirts on and clamped (I believe its product # 636425-04617 in the Norton Catalogue). Their site is
Norton Speed Grip .
He already has it rivets inside the wheel wheels so i guess i will just scrape it off
just drill out the rivets then you should be able to pull off the skirt to scrape out the caulk...and I would make sure to get all the caulk especially if the last guy went down to bare metal before laying the caulk..caulk won't stop rust so get that off and either epoxy the skirts or get some primer on if you are just going to use 3m tape.
As you learn about body work, prolly the first thing you'll learn (which you're probably seeing already) is it takes 3 times longer to fix someone else's mistakes than it takes to just do right, lol!
