i have a friend who is an iraqi refugee and he is a professional body worker we are tring to find a good buffer so he can do some work on the side we want to get a really good product eletric is preferred please attach a link.
I've been looking at the
Porter Cable 7424 for some time now. It's really expensive though, but I guess you get what you pay for. It is pretty popular and has good reviews wherever you go, maybe one day I'll get one, lol.
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At work i use the DeWalt 849.. works awesome and have had no issues. but i probably wouldn't recommend it to someone who has never buffed or hasn't buffed much.. you can tear some @!#$ up. Like all the car care detail companies and all the tv shows try to sell those dual action, so people who think they know what they are doing wont mess up their @!#$. those are fine but for what I need, i need cut and those dual action just dont do as well as the rotarys.
on a side note... how do you NOT get those stupid 'swirl' marks or buffer burns or wtf/ever they are??
ive yet to see a buff job that doesnt have them. its pretty much the only reason ive never had my white car done.
I'm tired of wasting my time... now I'm breakin' free.
Swirl marks are caused by three things. Not proper useage of a buffer. The Buffer must always go in a straight line never criss-cross. After ever time you wax or polish anything on your car you must always wash the bonnet on electric buffers and on air buffers you must high pressure the pads that you used. When you mix and match all your detail products is when you get swirls because its a combination of scratches and combined chemicals.
alot of times swirls are due to the person using the buffer, pressing down on the buffer.. im not going to say you don't apply any pressure with the buffer, but a lot of people think they need to put their weight on it. Or they will have the buffer angled, using the edge of the pad more then the bottom of the pad(you want the buffer to be as flat as possible) It also comes from how aggressive the compound is. I use wizards at work with all our auto repair and then I use them on all our Harley stuff too. They have a turbo cut which is what i use the majority of. I will wetsand peices flat with 1000 or 1500 grit paper depending on the part, then hit it with 2000 and 3000grit. That is trying to get out a lot compared to most people wanting fine surface scratches from everyday wear removed. But after i use the turbo cut I will go back and buff it with "Finish Cut" Its a lot less aggressive and main purpose is to remove swirls, which it does.. So we don't have issues with swirls in our work, esp in our Harley parts we make, that could lead to some pissed off owners spending all that money on all the work we did just to have it swirled like crazy once they take it outside.
hey thanks for the hijack y'all
j/k
anyway i think we are going w/ the porter cable because we cannot break the language barrier enough to full understand his experience level, when he was in Lebanon we did body work for a while but I still don't know if he can weld lol. thank you for the info y'all now back to swirls and how to avoid them
