How did you guys get the balljoint to pop out? I've already taken off the cotter pin and the crown nut, but I can't get the bloody thing to pop out.



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Quote:

Originally posted by MSD
I have an 03 5-speed Cavy, and when I race.. I shift at 6300-6500. That method (coupled with the fact that the guy probably couldn't drive for @!#$) allowed me to keep up with/have a slight lead on an 04 Mustang GT.

? the balljoint why are you taking that out??
you ahve to drill out the rivets but i dont think you want to do that unless the ball joing is bad

that is if its on a jbody

I'm disconnecting (or at least trying to) the control arm from the steering knuckle on a 2002 Cavalier.



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Quote:

Originally posted by MSD
I have an 03 5-speed Cavy, and when I race.. I shift at 6300-6500. That method (coupled with the fact that the guy probably couldn't drive for @!#$) allowed me to keep up with/have a slight lead on an 04 Mustang GT.

Yes ur not actually removing the ball joint its self. But what u do is just mash on it with a mallet. IM not sure what is best, haynes manual says its ok to use an actual metal mallet. But anyway i used a hammer and just tapped away at it from all sides of it. You have to hit it pretty decently hard but not beat the crap out of it. U could slip and damager ur bushing. Every now and then check it with like a flat head. If it is loose then game on. U can actually seperate it with that flat head, some people say to use a pry bar, which really isnt nessary, but will get the job done just as well.




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go to a auto parts store and borrow a ball joint / tie rod separator...then don't worry about breaking anything as you will be using the right tool for the job..


HONDAS ARE LIKE TAMPONS…EVERY PU**Y NEEDS ONE!

Dennis wrote:go to a auto parts store and borrow a ball joint / tie rod separator...then don't worry about breaking anything as you will be using the right tool for the job..

Yep, and made damned sure you don't skewer the grease boot with it.

There's a metal plate on the top of the grease boot. You want the pickle fork between that plate and the knuckle. Not right through the boot like I did.

well are you replacing the ball joint?

vtech power wrote:I'm disconnecting (or at least trying to) the control arm from the steering knuckle on a 2002 Cavalier.

Nope, just taking off the control arm so I can put in the prothane bushings.



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Quote:

Originally posted by MSD
I have an 03 5-speed Cavy, and when I race.. I shift at 6300-6500. That method (coupled with the fact that the guy probably couldn't drive for @!#$) allowed me to keep up with/have a slight lead on an 04 Mustang GT.

Wild Weasel wrote:

Dennis wrote:go to a auto parts store and borrow a ball joint / tie rod separator...then don't worry about breaking anything as you will be using the right tool for the job..

Yep, and made damned sure you don't skewer the grease boot with it.

There's a metal plate on the top of the grease boot. You want the pickle fork between that plate and the knuckle. Not right through the boot like I did.

So, uh, let's say someone were to hypothetically skewer the boot.

Does the dealer sell a new one, or do you have to buy a whole new ball joint?



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Quote:

Originally posted by MSD
I have an 03 5-speed Cavy, and when I race.. I shift at 6300-6500. That method (coupled with the fact that the guy probably couldn't drive for @!#$) allowed me to keep up with/have a slight lead on an 04 Mustang GT.

ball joints are cheap at Advance Auto or Autozone if I remember right. If you skewered the boot, you should get a new one. May not need a new one right away, but change it while it is apart. I don't think it is that hard.

The GM ones are sealed so you can't replace the boot. You have to buy a new one.

I highly recommend you spend the cash on the GM ones or at least ensure that whatever you replace them with are some sort of name brand quality product.

I saw a set for around $30 CAD and I could not believe what a cheap POS it was. There is absolutely no way in hell I would have put the thing on my car if someone paid me to!

Be very careful! Very bad things happen when ball joints fail. They're not to be messed with.

SO u cant change the bushing. Thats gay. Man now i gotta replace 2 ball joints? How much do the entires assembly cost?




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GreenFire wrote:SO u cant change the bushing. Thats gay. Man now i gotta replace 2 ball joints? How much do the entires assembly cost?

It's not a bushing. It's a grease boot and it's all sealed up.

I can't quite remember but I believe they were over $100 CAD each.

I just changed the ball joint on my 94 sunbird before it was sold. Pain to do it, the PITA was disconnecting the stabilizer bar to free the control arm. The stock end links never come apart without breaking Drilling/grinding out the rivets was also a chore, just grind off the heads and drill out the rest. Make sure you use a titanium drill bit as I broke two regular ones. When you take the old one out be sure not to bend the control arm. New ones should come with nuts 'n bolts so you never have to drill again.

I believe that the setup is the same for third gens. Have fun, I know I did LOL.




My Sunbird.... Still has some attitude

For got to mention that I didn't take the arm off of the car. I didn't want the hassle of removing the wheel bearing (bad move on my part). You may want to take the arm off of the car to drill it out as it was much more difficult to work with on the car. Also plan on buying an end link kit for the stabilizer bar as I mentioned above the stockers allways break.






My Sunbird.... Still has some attitude

Wow, you had to take off the bearing to get at the control arm? Must suck.



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Quote:

Originally posted by MSD
I have an 03 5-speed Cavy, and when I race.. I shift at 6300-6500. That method (coupled with the fact that the guy probably couldn't drive for @!#$) allowed me to keep up with/have a slight lead on an 04 Mustang GT.

I don't think you have to for the newer J bodies (95-05) but for mine (94) I was sure I had to.
What you need to do for the 95-05 is remove the brakes, strut/spring assembly and disconnect the stabilizer end links. Then there are two bolts to disconnect the A arm. I believe that's all as I was checking out my 03 fire to do polyurethane bushings in the A arms.






My Sunbird.... Still has some attitude

You don't need to take off the brakes and the struts/springs on 3rd gens. There's more than enough room in there.

To get at the A arm bolts, you'll also have to take out the lower engine mount on the passenger side and a brace from the driver side.




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Quote:

Originally posted by MSD
I have an 03 5-speed Cavy, and when I race.. I shift at 6300-6500. That method (coupled with the fact that the guy probably couldn't drive for @!#$) allowed me to keep up with/have a slight lead on an 04 Mustang GT.