Anyone have a DYS or know of any sites, where I can figure out how to replace me CV Axle? It's a 2000 Sunfire... Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks.
Best bet is to get a repair manual for the car, hanes or chiltons.
yah once you take the wheel off and look at it its pretty simple, thje hardest part is getting the ball joint out. but yah like he said get the manual
O.K.
Now how exactly am I supposed to know that it's my VC Axle that's broken. When I'm rolling slowly and turned the wheel, there's this clunky, poping noise from my drivers side. All the boots on the ball joint and tie rod look fine. Any help would be great.
Thanks
yup, its the cv axel.. cake to replace, hardest part is getting the axel out of the tranny, but not that hard
okay, since i had this debacle awhile back, i'll give you some pointers...Grantted, you'res is a bad CV joint, in my case my axle snapped in half.
If you have a 2000-2002 manual 2200/2.4TS (can't say much for the ecos 'cause i don't know if they have the same differential), then you will want to make sure you get a 1999 axle--the getrag and 1995-1999 isuzu manual trannies had the same connector in the differential. It took me a few rounds with Autozone/Parts-america/CCT to get them to tell me the correct axle (i had to give them pictures.
I believe all of the auto's are the same axle as each other, it should be a female connector on the axle--manuals use a male connector.
I can't speak for the autos, but the manuals will drain your tranny fluid when you remove the axle. it's a good idea to drain your tranny, then pull the axles out, and after you've put the new ones back in, refill the transmission with new fluid--you''re going to lose most fo the fluid anyway when removing the axle.
The axle hut and the strut-to-steering-knucle (STSK) bolts are torqued to 150+ft-lbs (the axle nut is 180--i believe), in other words, have a breaker bar handy.
The STSK bolts are splined--when you remove the nut that holds them down, you'll need to hammer them through to remove them.
It is a pain to remove the axles, but it's not too hard if you have some muscles on you.
Goodbye Callisto & Skaši, Hello Ishara:
2022 Kia Stinger GT2 AWD
The only thing every single person from every single walk of life on earth can truly say
they have in common is that their country is run by a bunch of fargin iceholes.
if you've got an extra set of muscles around, you don't even have to remove the steering knuckle.
works well if you have a hydrolift, or 4 jack stands, but you can just grab the hub and strut and pull it away from the car, that'll take the CV out of the hub and all you have to do is work it out of the diff.
be careful, because that's not really a "safe" way to do it. but when you're stuck in the ghetto with a broken CV axle....you gotta do what you gotta do.
Thanks for all the help guys, but i'm almost positive it's not the cv axle. I jacked the front up last night in the shop, and when I'm under the car and the wheels are begint turned, everything looks fine, no noises, no clunking or popping. BUT, when i put the car back down, popped the hood and turned the wheels, the noise gets much worse. it's coming from the upper strut mount. I found out there is no mount available for replacement from Napa, but they offer the bearing. didnt even know there was a bearing in there. I'm picking it up this morning, and i'll keep u posted if this solves the problem of the mysterious clunking....
