Ok I did a search on all forums for info on removing the AC out of my 97 Z24. I found nothing about car AC's but only something about window 110 units. So I'm not 100% sure but I don't think that is going to help me any. Here are my questions, if I remove my entier AC out of my car will I gain anything at all? If not freeing up any hp with the one less pully, but maybe taking some weight off the car. I'm wanting to do this because for one my Cavalier's AC does not work and I'm not going to spend the money to get it fixed. I have windows, and in the winter my Heater will still work. So before I do anything is it worth spending the time to pull it? Or will I not really see anything at all.
My next question is how hard is it to pull everything out? Is it gonna be an all day or longer job? How dangerous is it to open up the system with the freon in it? The freon is full well a bit over, it is at 42psi I beleive. And when I remove the compressor and take away that extra pulley I'm sure I'm going to have to get a shorter belt right? If I do need a shorter belt anybody know what leanght of one? Anything else I might need to know when pulling my AC? Thanks ahead of time to anybody that helps me.
My car has two speeds, fast and faster.
first of all yeah it will release a couple extra little ft lbs that were hiding. it is not hard to pull whatsoever very very easy. you could do it in 30 min. to an hour. its not really that dangerous just take off the line on your compressor and away she goes, let sit for a min or until its empty and you'll be fine. ok since the z24 has the 24 in it and if its pretty close to the 2.2(2200) your just gonna need the belt with a motor without A/C, just ask the local parts store and tell em you have no a/c and they will give you the right belt. you wont be able to take your condensor out unless you tear up your dash cuz its under neath there. for the condensor lines that are on the fire wall its much easier to go from bottom up and take some channel locks to em, they work better then a wrench, also be careful with the power sterring lines they should be chillin close to where you will enter from. any more questions feel free to ask
For the 2.4 you will need to get the A/C delete pulley. Otherwise you have no way to route the belt.
The weight savings is only 25-27 lbs. That system will suprise you on exactly how light the entire thing is. You'll also do a good job at reducing the already low resale value of the car.
If the a/c isn't on I don't believe you'll have any power loss, so there really isn't any point in removing it...unless you want the 20+ lbs gone...
the only reason i'd remove it is if it was making that awful noise like so many of them do.
mine makes the noise, i plan on just getting the non a/c belt and putting it in. that way if i ever want to go back to a/c all I need to do is swap belts...
The only time I'd ever recommend considering this is if you're building an all-out race car. Even if it doesn't work, the weight savings isn't really worth the drop in resale value.
As mentioned, you won't gain any power. The A/C pulley is freewheeling when you're not using it so it's not using any measurable amount of power.
SHOoff wrote:For the 2.4 you will need to get the A/C delete pulley. Otherwise you have no way to route the belt.
The weight savings is only 25-27 lbs. That system will suprise you on exactly how light the entire thing is. You'll also do a good job at reducing the already low resale value of the car.
You can wrap a smaller belt around the crank and tensioner and alternator. The rib side of the belt would run on the tensoiner pulley. "That is how mine is, not that I recommend it.
A smaller size would be a 345K5, but some belt manucatures are to short using this belt. A slittly longer belt would work BETTER.
I have a 2.4 belt pulley if you want it?
And mine was close to 33 lbs.
For piping, a/c unit, condensor, and everything.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Monday, August 14, 2006 7:13 AM
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
If you do remove it, be carefull of the Freon when you unbolt the pressureized tubing. It will spray when the nut is turned and if you have your hand in the way you'll get the skin on it frozen in about 1/2 second. Don't ask me how I know, it was nasty.
Don
Don Austin wrote:If you do remove it, be carefull of the Freon when you unbolt the pressureized tubing. It will spray when the nut is turned and if you have your hand in the way you'll get the skin on it frozen in about 1/2 second. Don't ask me how I know, it was nasty.
Don
It it even legal to vent it to the atmosphere?
If you take it somewhere to be emptied, will they charge for that? I mean... the gas itself is valuable, isn't it? So if they just keep it, shouldn't the service be free?
Or just wear gloves...
Yeah, I was not sure if it was worth pulling. I don't plan on selling the car any time soon. And if I do sell it I could really care less the resale value is on it. Because the way the car sits with all that I have into it, what I want from it and what people will give is totaly diffirent. But over all it does not sound like a practical thing to remove. If the pulley is free spinning when off then there is no harm there and I wont see any free hp off the crank. And the whole whopping 20lb lighter isn't going to do anything at all. So it sounds like to me that I should not waste my time and just leave it in right?
My car has two speeds, fast and faster.
the freon is cold, and when the seal breaks... just a heads up... u might not be able to hear anything for a little while. ive got my engine pulled in my car now, and im wanting to take mine off to free up some space in the engine compartment. the same thing would apply for me also right, just get the no ac belt and ill be good?
