i read the faq yet still can't decide on which ones i should get... this is my everyday driving car we're talking about, so i don't wanna be going through pads every month yet i am looking for some decent breaking power for higher speeds (higher friction rates)
what'd you guys suggest i should get?
Won't change your braking power. Get whichever you think looks prettier and make sure they're a reputable brand.
Braking power is in the pads and heat dissapation. Slotting and drilling is just bling.
Depends on your driving technique. If you race at all, you should know cross drilled rotors have had a tendency to crack more frequently. And you'd have to be running it pretty fast to need c/d or slotted. Kinda like a (functioning) roof scoop. But if its just a daily and will see no track time, get better pads if you're only after a little better braking power.
I root for the underdog...figured I might as well be one
Wild Weasel wrote:Won't change your braking power. Get whichever you think looks prettier and make sure they're a reputable brand.
Braking power is in the pads and heat dissapation. Slotting and drilling is just bling.
True but it slotted or cross drilled are function may be not so much on our car but on other applications.
2004 Grand Prix GTP (Competition Group)
SOLD-->1999 Z24 5M-
#30 to register on
JBO
"You can please some of the people some of the time but you can't please all the people'
all the time
g/fs cav has over 50,000 miles with no problems with her drilled rotors
she got more use from them , then she did her stock brakes that went at about 12,000 miles
there is pro's and con's for both , but they are minimal
but with a big brake kit that is slotted and crosed you will see a difference right?
Or is that just the "media talk" boosting it up?
This is my next investment, but i might rethink if i wont see a difference
Depends on your driving and what you're rolling on, too. If you only drive on the street, have 15-17" wheels, and don't pretend you're Tarzan Yamada every time you're behind the wheel, a big brake kit isn't necessary. On the other hand, if you have an identity complex or have hugenormous wheels (over 17"), a big brake kit is a good investment. Huge wheel and tire combinations are really hard on stock brakes. It makes it harder to stop the car because the weight of the wheels is so far away from the brakes, it's kind of like having the negative effect of leverage. Bigger brakes help give back that leverage. It's not so much clamping power as it is even clamping. The bigger calipers spread the load better, which gets more friction surface area to slow you down. At the least, slotted rotors are good to have. They will evacuate gas build up better and aren't prone to cracking like drilled rotors are.
Bigger brake kit. from what i understand in most cases is not nessassary.
As the guy on Sport COmpact said "if i hear someone else say more braking power he is going to scream" As said we don't do enough to warrant it. What i my own opionon and other not on this board have agreed with a rear disk conversiion is a good idea rather than a big brake upgrade.
I know it looks tacky with big wheel and small brakes. Have you seen the size on some brake on SUV's that are heavier than our cars? you check them out
2004 Grand Prix GTP (Competition Group)
SOLD-->1999 Z24 5M-#30 to register on JBO
"You can please some of the people some of the time but you can't please all the people'
all the time
Topsub wrote:but with a big brake kit that is slotted and crosed you will see a difference right?
No. If all you're concerned with is performance, by all means save your money and get the big brake kit with the plain rotors.
The drilled and slotted ones make some great bling though.
If your choice is between drilled/slotted or two-piece rotors for your money, you'll get much more benefit from the weight savings on the 2-piece rotors.
As for clamping power... big brakes aren't about clamping power. They're about heat dissipation and fade resistance. People can say whatever they want but if you've ever experienced brake fade to the point of failure, then you'll know it's a bad thing. With bigger wheels, it becomes a bigger issue after a couple hard stops.
Sure, if you drive like a granny, then you have no need for bigger brakes. But that doesn't mean there is no reason to have them.
As for the suggestion that you get a rear disk conversion instead... I agree with that only if you're talking about one of those smaller kits that are being pieced together these days with Fiero or Celica rotors. Those complement the front brakes well and get rid of the ghetto looking drums.
If you're talking about something like a Baer or SSBC conversion with 12" rotors, then it's stupid to have those without a big brake conversion in the front as well.
Wild Weasel wrote:Won't change your braking power. Get whichever you think looks prettier and make sure they're a reputable brand.
Braking power is in the pads and heat dissapation. Slotting and drilling is just bling.
Correct me if Im wrong but doesnt the cross-drilled part assist with heat dissipation?
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Madjack wrote:Like I said before, building an engine like ours (2.2 or 2200) is a painstaking chore , since there is so few custom made parts. It's frustrating to me too, but that's what I like about doing this engine, it's the challenge.
Jbody2nr wrote:Wild Weasel wrote:Won't change your braking power. Get whichever you think looks prettier and make sure they're a reputable brand.
Braking power is in the pads and heat dissapation. Slotting and drilling is just bling.
Correct me if Im wrong but doesnt the cross-drilled part assist with heat dissipation?
No, not so much. Maybe a little but the main reasion is gas evacuation. Braking builds up gases between the pad and rotor, which is part of what you feel during fade. The slots or holes, whichever you have, helps by giving the gases a place to go. The fins between the rotor surfaces are meant for cooling.
I have slotted rotors, and they have saved my hyde a few times. I see less braking distance, and much less brake fade as opposed to stock. And since where i live has alot of water, i like being abl;e to control my car when the roads flood.
El Fuego ( the grounded one ) wrote:I have slotted rotors, and they have saved my hyde a few times. I see less braking distance, and much less brake fade as opposed to stock. And since where i live has alot of water, i like being abl;e to control my car when the roads flood.
x2 -- Seattle = rain = brake fade up the a$$.
That's the main reason that I got CD/S rotors, is so the small amounts of steam from the road spray has a place to go.
Was the original questions answered?
Drilled or Slotted?
New Picture comming this summer.
I spoken to a number of peple that have said no need for a big brake upgrade, just upgrade the stock components. It is not really all that for the bigbrake up grade. To each his own. All i know i have experience brake fade. When you live in a place with a number of hills it is easy to heat up, and living in FLorida with heat indexes getting into the 100's. Change rotors and nothing else and saw a difference some may not believe but my biggest problem is getting my drums changed to take away from all the work being done up front.
2004 Grand Prix GTP (Competition Group)
SOLD-->1999 Z24 5M-#30 to register on JBO
"You can please some of the people some of the time but you can't please all the people'
all the time
IMO get some slotted rotors, good brakes and somess brake lines. This will help get you the better braking power you want.
Another option is Brembos replacement vented rotors. Have not used them myself, but I heard a few peopls say they felt better braking.
Ton-E wrote:IMO get some slotted rotors, good brakes and somess brake lines. This will help get you the better braking power you want.
Another option is Brembos replacement vented rotors. Have not used them myself, but I heard a few peopls say they felt better braking.
Brembo, Power Slot and Baer are all really great rotors, for the price the Baer are a really good set. We have a really low price on them right now as we had a few sets left over from the group purchase.
-Aaron
www.TurboTechRacing.com
Performance Parts For Cavalier, Sunfire, Cobalts and More!!!
I am running the Bear DECELArotors, with the HAWK pads from TurboTech, and must say I like them.
I do notice a bit more brake noise, but at a very, very small amount more than stock, and braking power is much better than stock.
I am running these in combination with stock rear drums, and motegi FF7 (18 inch) but certainly do notice the different in the front end braking.
I am very happy with the drilled and slotted rotors, along with the Hawk Ferro-carbon pads, and must say for the OEM size rotor and pad setup, these have a good amount of stopping power
BTW: the rotors are much cooler to the touch after driving than the stock solids were.