I was wondering if anyone that has done rear brake conversions on third gen j-body's that know of a replacement master cylinder that has the proper proportioning valves, or do you guys just add in the Wilwood Residual Pressure Valve into the lines?
"United by Individuality"
"If life is a joke, why aren't we laughing?"
"Normality depends on one's perception of reality."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3820803
Perhaps that Wilwood valve does the opposite of what it sounds like it does, but if not... why would you want to introduce residual pressure to a rear disk conversion? Normally, you'd want to eliminate any residual pressure that benefits the drums.
Wild Weasel wrote:Perhaps that Wilwood valve does the opposite of what it sounds like it does, but if not... why would you want to introduce residual pressure to a rear disk conversion? Normally, you'd want to eliminate any residual pressure that benefits the drums.
Actually, the reason you want to do the valves is because of the difference in the relief of pressure between disc and drum systems. Below is a quote from the info on Wilwood's site.
" WILWOOD RESIDUAL PRESSURE VALVES:
These in-line pressure valves retain a minimum brake line pressure to help eliminate excessive pedal travel in both disc and drum brake systems.
The two pound valve is used in disc brake applications where the master cylinder is mounted below the horizontal plane of the calipers and fluid drain back occurs from gravity and vibration, thereby causing excessive caliper piston retraction and a longer brake pedal stroke. The minimal two pound residual pressure prevents fluid from flowing back without causing the brakes to drag. With drum brakes, a ten pound valve is used to compensate for return spring tension in the drums. Residual Pressure Valves are made from billet aluminum and color coded for easy identification. Ideal for drag racing, street rod and many off road applications."
Remember, the return on drum brake systems is by springs. While disc brake systems is due to the square cut seal behind the piston and don't travel as far as drums do.
"United by Individuality"
"If life is a joke, why aren't we laughing?"
"Normality depends on one's perception of reality."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3820803
I have done the neon conversion kit provided from Josh Dearman. I replaced my stock master cylinder/abs motor pack with a larger master cylinder from the grand prix (can provide pics if wanted) with the abs setup.
When I converted to the neon setup, I noticed a bit of caliper drag on the rotors. I tried several different ideas to solve the issue. However, in the end, I ended up using a Wilwood 8psi (I believe...) RPV installed backwards to help reverse the effects of the stock RPV from the grand prix. That solved the caliper drag issue.
I can provide pics of the conversion if you need and help with any tech questions.
Nate VV wrote:I have done the neon conversion kit provided from Josh Dearman. I replaced my stock master cylinder/abs motor pack with a larger master cylinder from the grand prix (can provide pics if wanted) with the abs setup.
Did that have the same connector as the j-body's or did you have to rewire it?
Nate VV wrote:When I converted to the neon setup, I noticed a bit of caliper drag on the rotors. I tried several different ideas to solve the issue. However, in the end, I ended up using a Wilwood 8psi (I believe...) RPV installed backwards to help reverse the effects of the stock RPV from the grand prix. That solved the caliper drag issue.
Was it the red or blue ones?
"United by Individuality"
"If life is a joke, why aren't we laughing?"
"Normality depends on one's perception of reality."
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3820803
He used the red ones, 10psi IIRC, the blue ones are for the disc @ 2psi. On the 00+ J's there are external residual pressure valves which on my car I just swapped out for the wilwood blue 2psi valves.
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
macktruck84 wrote:Nate VV wrote:I have done the neon conversion kit provided from Josh Dearman. I replaced my stock master cylinder/abs motor pack with a larger master cylinder from the grand prix (can provide pics if wanted) with the abs setup.
Did that have the same connector as the j-body's or did you have to rewire it?
It is a direct bolt up operation. Simply disconnect the 4 brake hardlines from the ABS motor pack and the 2 bolts connected to the brake booster. Don't forget to disconnect the 3 sensor harnesses. Then it comes out easy as pie! Reverse to install.
Any reason why you changed to the Grand Prix setup over the stock system?
Just curious to know.
Misnblu.com
Newbie member since 1999
Thank you Dave and JBO! 
