I have posted a few times, asking for help on choosing a good suspension. Also, i have read the FAQ and talked to a few friends as well as a guy at this performance wholesale shop near my college.
so here is my idea: (and i need any feedback i can get, opinions on this seyup would be great!):
I am going to use the Tokico D-spec struts all the way around, and then put skunk2 coilovers on them, and drop it about 2.0 - 3.0 inches.
Then im going to use an RSM front strut tower bar.
what do you guys think?
never heard of skunk2 coilovers, add a rear strut tower brace aswell, throw a front and rear swaybar and a subframe brace and rear tie rod....then you will be set
hmmmmmmmmmm... i'd suggest different coilovers like the ground controls... i've heard nothing but negative comments about skunk2's for our cars....
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Now Blazing: Bunker Bud
skunk2=crap for our cars. They make some half decent ones for other cars, but of ours they are about the same as the cheap ebay coils.
I would think about the tein basics from gravana, or even better, the GP going on for his coilovers. Gravana's coilovers are hands down the best suspension I have seen for our cars.
^^^ i was just gonna post the same thing as well...skunk2=junk ebay coilovers...if ur gonna buy the skunk2's, you might as well only pay the $29.95 for the cheezy ebay ones....
I thought the the D-spec was a coil-over system? for the money they should be.
The only coil overs that I have heard good things about are the Ground Control and RKSport setups (they have GC springs) that is for separate coil overs and struts. there are the systems out there that are made to work together if you have the $$$.
Front and rear sway bars are excellent helpers for you suspension and not to be over looked, struts and springs are only part of your set up.
The strut tower bars tie the top of your suspension together while the sway bars tie the bottom together so that it will decrease roll and improve handling to its full potential.
did that make sense?
I need coffee
oh yeah shunk2 = junk that name should tell you they stink lol
Cinny wrote:I thought the the D-spec was a coil-over system? for the money they should be.
They're the same price as the Koni Yellows, what's wrong with that?
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They're the same price as the Koni Yellows, what's wrong with that?
i was referring to the coil-overs I guess, went searching on my own and found this. I was under the impression that the D-spec was a coil over
only kit like the sleeved kits from Eibach and Koni that I have seen. Live and learn.
Tokico D-Spec coil-overs
1995-2003 Chevrolet, Cavalier (All Trims)
Notes: 16 way adj.
Our Price:
$1526.14
Shipping: $50.00
Tokico 16 way adjustable shocks only. 609.00
RKSport Coil overs - #02032515 $299.99
Ground Control Coil Over Kit For Koni Struts $395.00
Koni Yellow Shock/Strut Kit $575.00
So you said you asked for help and read the FAQ. How the hell then did you decide that the Skunk2 coilovers might be a good idea??
Cinny wrote:
The only coil overs that I have heard good things about are the Ground Control and RKSport setups (they have GC springs) that is for separate coil overs and struts. there are the systems out there that are made to work together if you have the $$$.
I agree that those are the only two working sleeve kits for our cars. Getting the complete kits though like the ProStreets isn't the more expensive solution though. With either of those sleeve kits, you need a set of Konis so the price is about the same in the end. It's just a matter of what's right for you. The ProStreets don't have adjustable dampers.
Ryan Granholm wrote:never heard of skunk2 coilovers, add a rear strut tower brace aswell, throw a front and rear swaybar and a subframe brace and rear tie rod....then you will be set
Where could I find a rear tie rod? Never heard/saw one before. Do they exist for our cars?
The tie rod connects between the two mounting points of your sway bar. It basically keeps the same distance between the wheels the same. In my opinion, it adds a lot of oversteer to the back end (definatley want to stiffen the front to balance it out).
based on what I have read, and conversations with others here, I could only recommend a rear tie bar for a very experienced driver. it will add to the stiffness of the rear sway bar and give you oversteer in your setup. this can lead you to lose control by spinning out ( the rear coming around unexpectedly ) try to keep yourself in an under/neutral steer situation as it is much more predicable and easier to control/correct for. ask Zach he can tell you in much more detail than I.
see he answered while I was still typoing...
im glad i posted this, i had no idea skunk2 was crap for chevys. but on the gravana coilovers, what is the max. they can drop? i cant seem to find it.
and does anyone know the ballpark of what gravanatuning.com charges for shipping?
and how are the Weapon-R circuit Pro coilovers? it would seem they would be really good because they have the dual progressive springs.
and FYI: i know you guys are trying to help, and i apperciate it....but i am on a tight budget right now, and before you guys scream "save up!", well let me tell you thats what im doing.
i dont want to pour ALL my money into a suspension, simply because there are other things on my car that need fixing in addition to my suspension. so kits like the konis and the ground control coilovers are kinda out for me.
i think i should be able to get some decent struts and coilovers for around 550$, since thats what i have budgeted to my suspension.
question: should i get better struts then coilovers, or better coilovers then struts?
Zach wrote:The tie rod connects between the two mounting points of your sway bar. It basically keeps the same distance between the wheels the same. In my opinion, it adds a lot of oversteer to the back end (definatley want to stiffen the front to balance it out).
Tie bar. Not tie rod. Let's save everyone the confusion of trying to find rear tie rods.
For $550 I'm not sure what kind of "decent" coliovers and struts youre gonna find, but good luck. For that much, I'd go with KYB GR-2 dampers, and some Vogtland springs, and with the extra money, I'd get the RK Sport rear sway bar. But that's just me. Whatever you find, I hope it works out for you. As for the Weapon R sleeves, I just don't see the advantage of "dual springs". But like I said, thats just me.
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As for the Weapon R sleeves, I just don't see the advantage of "dual springs". But like I said, thats just me.
the second spring is a helper spring, there is a sky high spring rate is needed to keep a car lowered on coil-overs from bottoming out, the smaller spring is a softer spring and helps smooth out your ride. did I explain that right WW? I know the theory . but your the guy to talk to when it comes to coil-overs.
If I'm not mistaken, the helper spring isn't there to smooth out the ride. It's there to put pre-load into the system so nothing can come out of place when you lift up.
With springs, even when you lift the car off the ground the spring is still under tension. That's why you need spring compressors to remove them.
With coilovers, since the spring is so short, they generally just drop down when you lift the car. If this happens when you go over a large bump or something, there is a potential for the spring to come off it's perch or something.
This is really limited by the Ground Control style perch and top hat, which keep everything centered but I supposed it could still be technically possible. You'd need to catch a LOT of air though!
All the same, the helper spring should put pre-load into the system to keep that from every even being possible.
When driving around, it shouldn't really be doing much at all and stay mostly coil-bound.
Wild Weasel wrote:If I'm not mistaken, the helper spring isn't there to smooth out the ride. It's there to put pre-load into the system so nothing can come out of place when you lift up.
With springs, even when you lift the car off the ground the spring is still under tension. That's why you need spring compressors to remove them.
With coilovers, since the spring is so short, they generally just drop down when you lift the car. If this happens when you go over a large bump or something, there is a potential for the spring to come off it's perch or something.
This is really limited by the Ground Control style perch and top hat, which keep everything centered but I supposed it could still be technically possible. You'd need to catch a LOT of air though!
All the same, the helper spring should put pre-load into the system to keep that from every even being possible.
When driving around, it shouldn't really be doing much at all and stay mostly coil-bound.
THat sounds right to me. My helper springs on the old Weapon -Rs stayed fully compressed under normal load. They simply help the spring stay seated properly during hard cornering and driving over steap drives and such. But even with them on they will still come unsprung when jacked up off ground or entering this one certain Starbucks location I used to go to.
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