I'm about to move from FL to CT, and decided that I only had about 2 pieces of furniture that would justify the cost of renting any sort of trailer, and that's becuse they're family heir-looms... yeah never tried to spell that one before but anyways.
I was going to tow with my GF's 1996 Maxima, but it has 140k miles (we think, now I'm wonder if those scratch marks are odometer fraud) and wasn't perfectly maintained. So I turned to the possibility of towing the small uhaul trailer w/ my car. I already know I'd be breaking some rules because it's a 5-speed, but what about the fact that it's lowered? It's an Eibach Pro-Kit w/ KYB AGX's. I can't think of any reason why except for ground clearance, but with that light of a trailer I don't think it's going to hurt. Any ideas what could go wrong and why?
You will most likely have to adjust for the angle the trailer will be at by getting a higher hitch. The trailer has to be leveled so as to not start darting side to side when driving. Allthough it is best that you have more weight in front of the trailer wheels, it is also not good to have it all leaning down in the front. I would just tow it with the maxima.
I used to tow my ATV with my lowered Cavy... but the trailor was really low to the ground, so the hitch wasn't at an angle.
Rob
Sold 2/2/05
I won't in good conscience recommend it. The suspension already has less travel than stock and isn't meant to hold up that sort of weight. You may end up bottoming out the rear suspension which isn't good for the car at all.
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The suspension already has less travel than stock and isn't meant to hold up that sort of weight.
The car's only rated to tow 1000 lbs, tongue wieght should be about 10% of the trailer weight so say 100 lbs on the tongue, most people have more weight over their rear axle with a friend in their back seat and/or a stereo. Not saying you didn't bring forth a good point, just maybe you didn't consider I'm towing such a light trailer.
But nonetheless I am starting to worry a little more about this whole idea than when I first thought of it, mostly because of driving a 5-speed when the manual says not to and for 1200 miles.... at least it's almost all flat land but still.
Can't tow it with my GF's car because we're having a couple other people with us to help drive and stuff, but my gf and I are the only ones who know how to drive a stick and I'm the only one who will be driving the car with a trailer since I have the most exp and my gf's pregnant so I can last the longest on the road.
What size trailer are you getting? The smallest uhaul trailer that you could put furniture in is a 4'X6' box trailer and it weighs 670lbs empty.
josh
philter127 wrote:The car's only rated to tow 1000 lbs, tongue wieght should be about 10% of the trailer weight so say 100 lbs on the tongue, most people have more weight over their rear axle with a friend in their back seat and/or a stereo. Not saying you didn't bring forth a good point, just maybe you didn't consider I'm towing such a light trailer.
When they say not to tow more than 1000 lbs, they're not talking about tongue weight. They're talking about the whole thing.
Since you won't have trailer brakes, the car's stock brakes have to soak up the momentum in the trailer as well. By your reasoning, you could tow a 10k lb trailer with a stock 2.4L auto Cavy. Honestly.... do you think that's reasonable?
Did you even read that before you quoted it? I have no idea how you got any of that out of what I said.
I'm not claiming to be an expert on this, but these are the things I've thought about that you might encounter.
1. The towing capacity of the Sunfire/Cavalier is 1000lbs, as already pointed out. That is total weight, not tongue capacity, obviously. (Also, already pointed out). I don't know how much your cargo weighs, but it takes a bit of furniture to weigh 330lbs, unless you have grandma's solid walnut buffet & hutch. BTW, 1000 lbs is the recommended maximum tow capacity....who's ever gone by that anyways? LOL
Maximum tongue weight on most class 1 hitches for this car is 200lbs, more than sufficient for the smail 4x6 enclosed trailer as suggested. Of course this depends a bit on how you load the trailer. If you put everything forward in the trailer, it may get close. So, positioning is important. You should be able to lift the tongue of the trailer yourself, but not have to pull the tongue down. If that happens, you need to readjust to put some weight on the back of the car. I don't know about anyone else, but I've had a full load of people in my car without making it squat too much, so I'm pretty sure it can handle 100-200 lbs tongue weight, as long as it's not loaded down inside the car.
MAKE SURE YOU SECURE THE LOAD!!!!! You don't want it moving around inside the trailer. That changes things quick!!
2. Since you got the Eibach Pro-Kit, you've only dropped the car 1.4 - 1.5 inches, so it's not a radical drop. True, you don't have as much suspension travel, but since you have stiffer springs than stock and KYB shocks, you probably won't need as much travel. You also have an advantage over stock shocks with quicker recovery. Also, since you only have the 1.5 drop (roughly), it doesn't change the angle of the hitch drastically, and you can buy a ball mount pretty inexpensively to make up for it, if needed.
3. As long as you're not loaded with too much electronics, your electrical system should be fine. Check to see which trailer connector they use on the trailer BEFORE you get there, otherwise you'll need to have them install the wiring, and that costs extra.
4. 5speed manual. I guess I haven't heard of a manual tranny ever being a problem when towing, so maybe you guys can educate me, but normally a manual is BETTER to tow with. It won't start slipping like an automatic when it gets warm from towing.
5. Plan your route, and take your time. The 2.2 is a good motor, but not overly powerful for towing, so you may encounter a some drag when pulling the enclosed trailer. Again, it's not that much weight, but if you do get into the hills a bit, drop down to 4th and take it easy. . You won't be able to maintain 75MPH on the interstate I'm sure. I wouldn't even try to push it much over 55-60, but you'll get there.
Sorry for the long post..but I was doing a lot of thinking....not sure what happened. LOL
Check out my build thread!
How did you make out??? I was thinking about towing a jet ski with my 01 Manual cav....and yes I know that the manual says not to.....
Manuals are bad for towing because the clutch wasn't meant for the larger enertia (1000+ LB extra). So you'll wear out your clutch faster. Also if you're not good at driving a stick, you'll stall much easier. Auto's have the overheating problem (as stated above), but for small loads (like this), you really don't need to consider it unless it's 100+ degrees outside.
Overall you shouldn't have any problems with something fairly small like this. If you were trying to pull a boat or anything over 1000+; or if you wanted to do it regularly; I would reccomend something else.
C.T.S wrote:Manuals are bad for towing because the clutch wasn't meant for the larger enertia (1000+ LB extra). So you'll wear out your clutch faster. Also if you're not good at driving a stick, you'll stall much easier. Auto's have the overheating problem (as stated above), but for small loads (like this), you really don't need to consider it unless it's 100+ degrees outside.
Overall you shouldn't have any problems with something fairly small like this. If you were trying to pull a boat or anything over 1000+; or if you wanted to do it regularly; I would reccomend something else.
Actually a manual clutch will be less likely to slip over the auto bands. No if the clutch has like 100+ on it, that is one thing.
FU Tuning
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Actually a manual clutch will be less likely to slip over the auto bands
The clutch slips every time you en/disengage it. That's what it does; what it's made for. But if tit's slipping more than usual, because the car is harder to move than usual, then it will wear out faster.
Auto bands are very hard to get to slip. But they are under a lot of force when you're on the freeway going 70mph, and hauling the car (2600 lb) + trailer (1000+ lb) + You (150-250 lb). You can see how the forces are getting to be way more than normal. So you wouldn't want to do it all the time; but for one-time moving, you're good to go.
so basically for a 700lb jet ski, my worst case scenerio would be a new clutch?
where I am I doing the most damage...city driving with the ski or on the highway. By the sounds of it, once I am engaged and moving I am ok....
oh and an FYI, my car is not lowered or anything, just used this post cause it existed already...stock 01 Manual
thanks
for you to tow a small trailer, is gonna be no big deal.... i pull jetskies alll the time, installed a "HIDEN HITCH" on my car, its rated for 250 tounge and 2000...
I did have an emergency, where i had to tow a 19 foot bass boat with my car.. it was only for a couple of miles, but it did pull it... and my car is a manual...
there shouldnt be anything wrong with pulling stuff, its just that youre gonna wear out your gears much much quicker, and youre goinnna be pushing a lot of heat out of your car...
as for small trailers, absolutly not a problem.... .... once on the road, you probably wont feel ithe thing behind you, its just how quickly you stop, and accelerate....
i do have a question about suspension.. if anyone knows if anyone makes an air adjustable shocks, that raise an 1" and lower to 2" from the factory stance?
wait for it... wait for it... NOW GO!! ---> '02 LS Sport <---
Yahoo IM : buzz122 AIM : buzz122cav
buzz122: You're right on about stuff that will wear out a bit quicker. Even then you're only reducing the life by a few thousand miles (unless you're abusing it). Big stuff like the bass boat would be bad, if you did it for an extended time, or if you popped the clutch and gunned it (basically abusing it).
As for the adjustable shocks. Sounds like you're talking about springs (cause shocks/struts can work at a variety of heights), and if you want adjustable springs you have two options. Coil-overs and AirBags. If your going to be towing stuff with the car, then airbags all the way. They're strong and will resist bottoming out, especially since you can simply add more air to get them up higher/stiffer. Otherwise a good coil-over kit can let you adjust your height too. I don't know of any kits that let you raise the car, but I'm sure someone here has seen such a thing.
my advise... you don't seem comfortable with the idea of towing it that far.... so don't
Well the bass boat was on an emergency, and no i didnt abuse it... but hell, the lil cavi had enough balls to do it... but definatly not on long distances... i usully only pull jetskies... and i'm soon gettinbg a double trailer for them. Besides all that, i was wondering more about if there is anything like and "Air Ride Technologies" package, that can raise it or drop it, i dont know if i'm willing to go with an air bag system.
I did see a 69 chevelle that looked sweeter than syrup coated sugar cubes, that had their air shocks... suposedly you take out the shocks themselves, and replace it with the adjustable ones, and voila youve got an adjustable ride. I'm thinking that the shocks would be more dependable than any air bag? well one thing you wouldnt have to wory about is the bags poping, right?
I just got back from SC, pulled one of the jetskies... stopped in GA, exit 28, and gas was 2.06, filled up my car, and the ski, and its just noticable that the rear end was sitting a little lower than usual, not that it made a too big of a diffrence in handling (really!!!) but i just didnt like the way it looked, sligly off balance. I might be anal about it but what can you do!
Plus having the option to drop it a couple of inches aroud town is great.
wait for it... wait for it... NOW GO!! ---> '02 LS Sport <---
Yahoo IM : buzz122 AIM : buzz122cav
