$94 plus shipping...is that a good deal or what?
Sweet, do you have to relocate anything for it to work?
just as good as any of the rest of them
looks nice but a waste of money if you ask me
[quote=ßãggéÐÇåv98 (Ûñqùðtäߣè Øñé)]looks nice but a waste of money if you ask me
I was thinking that too but I have nothing aftermarket under my hood as of yet...
get a regular vibrant bar, its the same thing
I say get it. Sounds like a pretty good deal.
Its a nice piece. All DC Sports and AEM parts are well constructed and if something is wrong with it, the warranty will be honored in the US, no need to send to Taiwan like vibrant. I personally have the vibrant bars, but that's only b/c I didn't have the option of DC Sports at the time of pruchase. If I could buy a nice front strut bar for my car, I would do it. They do work.
I'll have a sig someday....................
Isn't there a factory bar available?
well by the way it looks it wouldn't work with the 2200 due to the intake and throttle body being on the back of the engine since the bar looks to bend forward. my ractive bar is bent slightly back and down and barely clears my weapon r intake on my 2200.
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should actually be a good bar to, i was watching a tuner program awhile back and one of the guys was talking about strut bars and how they are a great investment in a unibody car, but that most of them nowadays are using these flexible ends which can allow movement in an even worse way, so the best bars are fixed end bars which cant flex at all back or forth in hard corners.
J~
J~ wrote:should actually be a good bar to, i was watching a tuner program awhile back and one of the guys was talking about strut bars and how they are a great investment in a unibody car, but that most of them nowadays are using these flexible ends which can allow movement in an even worse way, so the best bars are fixed end bars which cant flex at all back or forth in hard corners.
J~
Just like my stock bar! Woot!
yeah, just spend 48.50 and get the GM factory one. Definatly the most rigid, and the cheapist. If you are going for looks its nothing special though
Cavalier2001z24 wrote:yeah, just spend 48.50 and get the GM factory one. Definatly the most rigid, and the cheapist. If you are going for looks its nothing special though
Well... it IS something special....
Short bus sort of special...
if i didnt just get the GM strut bar ied look into this one. i garentee its stronger than all those cheapy ricer looking ones out there.
a strut bar is a strut bar until it comes down to its quality and strength!
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GM brace bolted to firewall is the stiffest setup. I don't care what anyone else says. DC does make good stuff though.
Hate to bust a bubble, however it is only a single bar. That seller is wrong. The seller has the right part number CSB2002 for the ecotec. But they DONT make a dual bar for the cavalier. Also we have it cheaper by the time you add in the shipping cost.
-Aaron
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Zach wrote:GM brace bolted to firewall is the stiffest setup. I don't care what anyone else says. DC does make good stuff though.
tests to prove this? anyone have any solid proof as of yet???
i mean i atleast took a few different bars out on a skid pad and found no difference, yet people who have only owned one bar are still making all these claims with no legit proof....
I had a cheap ebay bar on for about 2 days (it was rubbing on the tb, so I took it off). Then I put the GM bar on. Then I bolted the GM bar down. I noticed a difference every time.
Art, did you happen to test one of those ebay banana bars? I can see that there would only be a little difference with a name brand bar and a gm bar, but those ebay bars are complete crap.
As was said earlier you'll get a single bar despite what his listing says. There's not enough room under the hood of an ecotec for that kind of assembly.
However I do have the CS-1 (which is what he sends you) I ordered from the same guy. One advantage is you don't have to relocate anything with this bar. There is an indentation in the pare so it clears the cruise control module. I've been lazy lately but I'll post a pic in my other thread on the DC Sports Carbon Strut bar later tonight.
It's a VERY solid bar. No joints of any kind, just good welds on both ends.
I didn't get the Vibrant bar because I didn't want to have to relocate anything. Not having to "customize" my car and using a part designed for it specifically was worth the extra cash IMO vs. possibly messing something up. I will most likely be getting the vibrant bar fo the rear tho.
-Chris
Zach wrote:I had a cheap ebay bar on for about 2 days (it was rubbing on the tb, so I took it off). Then I put the GM bar on. Then I bolted the GM bar down. I noticed a difference every time.
Art, did you happen to test one of those ebay banana bars? I can see that there would only be a little difference with a name brand bar and a gm bar, but those ebay bars are complete crap.
actually tested ractive (round bar style before the flat anodized series), GM, and i did the fit testing for freedom design since they are in alexandria VA off of eisenhower.
on a skid pad the one that scored the lowest (all same day runs) was the ractive at .89, however i was then enlightened on how to make every nut and bolt tight, ran it again and pulled a .91 when rounded.
both the freedom design and the gm scored .92g on a legit skidpad set up at fed ex feidl with addco rear and front sways,nitto 450;s, and 17' inch wheels and freedom design rear bar(used on all three front bars for testing)..
like most people i race with in SCCA have said, for someone to claim that one bar is the best, stiffest, etc... you gotta have some quantitative proof that it legitly beat the rest.
as it stood freedom design was just as consistent and stiff as a gm one bolted to the firewall, which was my first ordeal to lead me to believe the firewall isnt as stiff as other car... thats what made me do the research on how thick the wall actually is...and its not that thick. i;ve already posted that proof.
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but that most of them nowadays are using these flexible ends which can allow movement in an even worse way
thats only a problem with some of the pansy arses here who are scared to tighten a bolt or two. and we do have alot in this forum it seems. as long as the bolts are tight, its not gonna move. its the same concept as how we can change camber by loosening the bolts, but once they are tight, granting someone isnt a "hike your skirt, mary", its not gonna move. period.
