Heres a solution and a nice upgrade to GM's clutch line design flaw. Some of use found out the hard way that the rubber
section of the line rubs against a sharp part of a wire harness rubbing a hole in the line. I had bought another line from
GM and installed it momentarily until I found a better solution. Hardest part was finding a line or fitting that had the
same quick disconnect fitting that goes into the master cylinder. Theres a tag on the new line that says Germany which made
me think they might use the same connectors on German cars. Then I came across the E46 SS braided clutch line which had the
a similar quick disconnect fitting on one end and a female threaded sided on the other end. Took a chance, bought it, and
sure enough it was the same. Bought some brass fittings and made it all work.
Heres a closer view of the quick disconnect fittings.
Stock
E46
Tools:
Line cutter
Tube bender
Wrenches
What you need:
1 01-05 BMW E46 M3 SS Braided Clutch Line
1 Brass 3/16 compression union
1 Metric brass 3/16" (3/8-24) inverted female to M10 x 1.0 Male Bubble
Fittings can be bought form your local auto parts store. I got mine from Auto Zone for like 4.00 for both of them.
Cut the hard line closest to the rubber section. I cut mine right before the bend because of clearance using the cutter tool. You can see that in the picture where I chose to cut the metal portion of the line. (Note: You need to make about a 45 degree bend in the hard line after you cut it if you wanted it to be routed the same way as the original line was.)
Lightly sand the coating off the end you just cut, to bare metal. About 1/2" down will do.
You will only need one sleeve and nut for the compression union. The other sleeve and nut you can save for whatever reason. I did for replacement parts if i ever need them. Attach the union to one end of the hard line and then screw together the metric adapter to the other end of the union. Then take the SS line and screw the end to the metric adapter.
Heres the order how it will go together.
Here the final product what you should end up with.
Make sure every thing is tight and install the new line on the car. Fill the reservoir, bleed the Clutch line, and check for any leaks. Tighten where needed.
I have had mine on my car for over a year and no leaks or problems what so ever.
Save your money. It might be worth something someday.
Nice work. Do you think anybody sells just the QD style end with a threaded end on the other side rather than the SS line or a compression hard line setup? Let me clarfy, do they sell just the fitting that is on the far right side of your above pic with like a pipe thread or any other type of thread on the other side...just the fitting, no line connected.
Edited 1 time(s). Last edited Thursday, November 19, 2009 8:59 PM
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
a compression fitting works well. its wat i used to adapt my 282 line to the isuzu m/s
I look all over for a threaded QD fitting and had no luck.
Save your money. It might be worth something someday.
sweet glad to see you posted the how to. Looks good.
verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrryyyyy nice work very nice
just in time i need that
thankssssss a wholeeeeeeeee bunch you just helped me out tons
JUCNBST wrote:sweet glad to see you posted the how to. Looks good.
Thanks Jeff
timka03 cav wrote:verrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrryyyyy nice work very nice
just in time i need that
thankssssss a wholeeeeeeeee bunch you just helped me out tons
No Problem
Save your money. It might be worth something someday.
nice write up man. sticky?
definite sticky.
-Trailblazer SS - not so custom 6.0L - custom intake - custom tune
- (1) 2.4L on an engine stand (1) blown trans (2) good quad trans (1) eco trans = party
I wish I had known this last year, Happened to me last summer, but I didnt know what had happened, so I took it to the dealer to get fixed.
$220 later and I had a new clutch line.
Bump, also I highly doubt it will happen but......it would be nice to get a sticky with trans info/upgrades
Sticky THIS!
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
I just notice that the package for the gator gripper union said 'Not reccomended for automotive brake line systems'. The clutch line uses the same technology. I wonder what the long-term sustainability of this fix will be? Also, I cannot find the gator gripper compression fittings anywhere online! anyone have a link to the company website or a dealer besides Autozone (dont see it there either)
Clutch pressure is lower pressure than a hydraulic brake system. The most they have in common is the fluid, not much more. They should work on the clutch line just fine. Also, those union 'can' be used on brake lines in emergency situations as I've had to do it before and it holds the pressure just fine. They have to say 'not recommended' cause they can't go around saying it is fine. Inevitably a moron will install them wrong, it pops off, lose control of the car and kill people. Then said moron will blame the manufacturer for not telling him that he is a moron and has no business even touching his car in the first place, and the manufacturer will get hung out to dry in our justice system. Ya know, the moron's American dream, you can see it everyday. Sorry to put it that way.....but it's honest.
Edited 2 time(s). Last edited Thursday, December 03, 2009 8:39 PM
"Never argue with an idiot. They'll drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience!" -Anonymous
I hate to have to post on a 3 year old thread, but I have been searching internet for a good half hour and can't find a proper part number and the dealership still open on the west coast i called was useless. What is the gm part number for that line that you have? with the bleeder and the metal line all of that. My rubber hose has sprung a leak like so many and would like to get it fixed asap.
Thank you,
Lee
Lee I've got the clutch master #listed in my 2001 red cavi's profile if you click my user name.
Im pretty sure it's not the master cylinder...Its a clutch line... Online the pics of the master cylinder are different im talking about the pic above with the metal line and the bleeder witht he rubber hose that goes to the clutch actuator pipe or w/e. Can't find anything online that looks like that part
When my clutch line blew I was quoted around 200$ for the line and the master cylinder assembly wich comes with the reservoir, cluthch line and bleeder was 250$.part #24233064
I ordered the part from gm parts direct. Someone on another forum gave me the part #. dealer wanted 130, i got it 78$ shipped part number: 89060003
Thanks,
Lee
Sticky this
PRND321 Till I DIE
Old Motor: 160whp & 152ft/lbs, 1/4 Mile 15.4 @88.2
M45 + LD9 + 4T40-E, GO GO GO
Any links or part numbers for the BMW line for less than $40?
That's still $40 shipped but thanks. I found one for less though using the OEM part number.
