Hey i wanted to know what resistor people were using to trick
their IAT sensor into seeing cold air instead of relocating
the sensor itself.
Needs to be asked in the NEWBIE section... or search
dont do it....its stupid and does nothing but hurt
Goodbye Bobby, May God grant you the peace you never found in life.
�Here's my counter-offer to your counter-offer: go f**k yourself.�
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I did do a search and thats why i'm asking
Don't do it, period.
It causes your car to run rich, losing power, washing the oil off the cylinder walls, causing premature piston ring wear. You can't make more power simply by adding fuel, you need the air to go along with it.
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Yeah but when you are boosted and going lean at top
end because you only have fpr and no fmu it may
help with that issue a good amount. So i'm still curious.
Quote:
dont do it....its stupid and does nothing but hurt
Quote:
Don't do it, period.
2 people have told you not to do it. i will be the 3rd, dont do it its a useless mod. and if you are running lean when your boosted, there are proper ways to fix that problem
Im a Xbox 360 fanboy...and damn proud of it!!
Brad Newman wrote:Yeah but when you are boosted and going lean at top
end because you only have fpr and no fmu it may
help with that issue a good amount. So i'm still curious.
No, it won't. And the lean spots with an FMU and FPR are at the low end, not the top end. Its not due to the FMU and/or FPR, its because a turbo can generate atmospheric pressure inside the intake manifold even before the throttle body opens. Relocating or putting a resisitor in your IAT isn't going to cure your boost issues, it will only make them worse because if the computer doesn't know how hot the air is, it won't pull back the timing, and you are going to get detonation, since fuel + very hot air = boom.
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the first two guys have or want electric turbos so excuse
me for not trusting there intelligence. You don't really
have anything interesting done to your car either
so i'm not exactly stunned by your experience either.
I'm aware there is a proper way to fix a problem but
i don't exactly have that money for now. I'm just trying to
find a way to make my injectors cycle slightly longer.
Oh and to top it off you an absolute A$$. There was no
need to become rude.
Shifted that wasn't really directed at you.
Brad Newman wrote:the first two guys have or want electric turbos so excuse
me for not trusting there intelligence. You don't really
have anything interesting done to your car either
so i'm not exactly stunned by your experience either.
I'm aware there is a proper way to fix a problem but
i don't exactly have that money for now. I'm just trying to
find a way to make my injectors cycle slightly longer.
Oh and to top it off you an absolute A$$. There was no
need to become rude.
Crashes motor is actually a fully built 2.4/2.3 hybrid running a HUGE turbo at over 20 PSI, fully built drag tranny, and custom axles, and a little bit of nitrous on top of that. He had a standalone engine management on it but somebody stole it. He did a lot of the work himself. His registry (like my future mods) is a joke.
Both don't mean to come off like asses, but questions like these come up all the time, where somebody is wanting to get a ton of horsepower, but spend very little doing it. Fact of the matter is, hp costs money. If you want to put a figure on it, I would say that each 1hp you want, will cost you $25. Now relate that to the IAT mod, you really think a $0.10 resistor is going to get you 10-20hp?
4cyltuner.com - Information Source For 4 Cylinder Tuners
Buy stuff from CarCustoms Ebay! Won't be disappointed!
Shifted (KickAzz) wrote:
Both don't mean to come off like asses, but questions like these come up all the time, where somebody is wanting to get a ton of horsepower, but spend very little doing it. Fact of the matter is, hp costs money. If you want to put a figure on it, I would say that each 1hp you want, will cost you $25. Now relate that to the IAT mod, you really think a $0.10 resistor is going to get you 10-20hp?
Check his mod list.
You guys are all right in that the "IAT relocation" mod is useless but bear in mind that he seems to be looking for a legitimate solution to the boost issue, not simply trying to get a few extra hp out of the ghetto mod.
Brad: You might want to repost your question in the boost forum asking how to solve your actual problem rather than asking about the IAT sensor itself.
I did it on my 99. a resistor.... but from experience.... DO NOT DO THAT! YOUR MOTOR NEEDS TO ADJUST ACCORDING TO AIR TEMP GOING IN YOUR MOTOR!
over time you are just shortening the life of your motor.
New Picture comming this summer.
It's not a legit fix... All your doing is moving the curve up or down some accross the board. You might gain something here but your losing something here.
<img src="http://www.j-body.org/registry/americanred/deplysig.gif">
a stupid idea your not fooling the PCm at all
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
ur better to design a cold air intake so ur actually gettin cold air. IF u connect the resistor, ur tricking your computer into using more fuel, but the cold air isnt there, so the combustion never actually changes, u just use more gas. design a cold air intake, or email me and i'll tell you how i did mine
honestly the difference between the short ram intakes and the supposed cold air is very little, keep in mind with every pipe bend you lose velocity and with cold air your sucking up the air through a maze and losing any possible benefit by air only a few degrees colder
1989 Turbo Trans Am #82, 2007 Cobalt SS G85
