I'm a pretty good clutch driver but I'm always lookin to get better so if anyones got any manual trans racing tips let me know....... Well if you could give me any manual driving tips to get better gas milage that works to let me know brothas!
***Looking for a BLUE 03+ STOCK cavi wing pm me if ya got one you wanna sell***
If you are drag racing, shift right at the rev limiter, it drops you back into your powerband. and when i do it i never let off the gas. gives it a little more kick, it is harder on the clutch though.
Don't be afraid to ride your clutch off the line. I know it's hard, I'm having issues with it now....
How bad is it to dump the clutch of the line ? I had a Geo storm 1.6L 5speed and I street raced it a little and at the lights I would rev it to 5 and dump it I took a v6 probe auto in a premesured 1/4 mile
***Looking for a BLUE 03+ STOCK cavi wing pm me if ya got one you wanna sell***
i dont drop from that high, i drop from 3000 and even then i dont DROP it. i let it out faster than normal though.
I usually launch from ~1900 rpm or so. It works well for me. Don't redline dump it.
It takes practice to get it right.
PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE PRACTICE
I launch at 4000rpm
don't dump the clutch, this isn't a burn out contest. if you have a Z or an eco, it should light the tires up pretty easily.
always shift just before the rev limiter
shift as fast as you can
if you're brave, don't push the clutch down all the way when shifting, just enough to let the shifter fly from one gear to the next
letting off the gas is optional, but if you're shifting just before the rev limiter, I'd suggest letting off the throttle.
when launching, a little tire spin is ok... don't launch so low that you bog.. bogging is worse.
Quote:
don't dump the clutch, this isn't a burn out contest. if you have a Z or an eco, it should light the tires up pretty easily.
Not if you have the tires to keep you from spinning. I have launched as high as 3500 RPM with no wheel spin. I dump the clutch as well. I do not see it being hard, or harder on the clutch, as it is to slip the clutch out with the RPM's high. Hard on the driveline (probably), but I also lift up on the clutch pedal as much as possible to the point the car wants to pull forward and hold it there so there is less shock to the driveline . Stock clutch at 80k, and a good 200+ track passes.
FU Tuning
Quote:
I do not see it being hard, or harder on the clutch, as it is to slip the clutch out with the RPM's high. Hard on the driveline (probably), but I also lift up on the clutch pedal as much as possible to the point the car wants to pull forward and hold it there so there is less shock to the driveline
I never said it was hard on the clutch, but normally sitting there and roasting the tires isn't what you want to do when racing
Its all about feel. I have crap tires and an open diff, so I can't pop the clutch. But I have one 2.09 60' to my credit on the 14" 70 series tires (ROCK!)
our methods may be different, but our 60's are in the same ballpark..
at least we know we're doing something right
DaFlyinSkwirl (PJ) wrote:Quote:
I do not see it being hard, or harder on the clutch, as it is to slip the clutch out with the RPM's high. Hard on the driveline (probably), but I also lift up on the clutch pedal as much as possible to the point the car wants to pull forward and hold it there so there is less shock to the driveline
I never said it was hard on the clutch, but normally sitting there and roasting the tires isn't what you want to do when racing
Its all about feel. I have crap tires and an open diff, so I can't pop the clutch. But I have one 2.09 60' to my credit on the 14" 70 series tires (ROCK!)
our methods may be different, but our 60's are in the same ballpark..
at least we know we're doing something right
Oh I was not directing that at you so to speak, just saying. You are soo correct. Everyone should do what works best for them, which may be all different things. I have tried the slipping of the clutch and just can't do it. When I do not have tires to take a 3500 rpm drop I do not drop at that RPM, I find the sweet spot where I can. Soon the Team Green LSD, and a Spec stage 2 and flywheel go in. Can't wait to see what I can do then!!
FU Tuning
For gas mileage: Shift early(around 2k - 2.5k) and skip gears. 1st to 3rd to 5th. 1st to 2nd to 4th etc...There is plenty of torque to manage this. The more time you are in a gear with wide open tb the more efficient. By this i mean that the engine is at lower rpm's with more gas pedal depression (wot). Hope this made sense.
for gas mileage just shift when your shift light comes up on your dash.
Anyone run slicks with there car.?
To save gas I shift at about 3 grand.
WTH are people talking about gas mileage ? we're in the RACING forum...
14.425 @ 97.833 mph stock + GMPP s/c on drag radials.
yea for long races...you dunce
deleted
DanteMustDie wrote:WTH are people talking about gas mileage ? we're in the RACING forum...
HAHA... that was great.... yea it took me awhile to get used to it... but now I think I've managed to get the feel of my clutch at the track... now I feather it to the point where I'll just start to feel the pull of the engine and wait there.... then launch at around 3500... improved my 60' from a 2.4 to a 2.2 still spinnin a little (crappy tires!) So I hope to drop it more once I finally get DR's... but at least now I know I am launching fairly correctly though...
http://www.motortopia.com/cavyfreak442/cars
Best ET to Date: 14.251 @ 98.51 mph. 13's or Bust Baby!
Drag Racing: 5000 RPM then let it out as fast as you can
yields low 2.0's 60' times, just have to get the tire pressure correct for conditions
ONLY All Motor Quick 8 H2 (GMSCB 2005)
Overall Best times
60' - 1.937 (10/01/05)
330' - 5.879 (5/21/06)
1/8 - 9.181 (5/21/06)
M.P.H.- 74.86 (5/21/06)
1000' - 12.078 (5/21/06)
1/4 - 14.551 (5/21/06)
M.P.H.- 93.37 (4/29/06)
Website: www.benwenzeljr.com
If you want get gutsy, my 2003 Sunfire allowed me to just hold down the gas pedal and let the stock rev limiter act as a two step. Crazy, I know. But this allows for only having to move one pedal at a time. I would hold the car at about 4000 RPM then when the first amber lit up, mash the throttle, the RPMs would hit the rev limiter, bounce to 4500 or so, hit the rev limiter again and by the time it was time to launch, it would be on its turn around in the cycle allowing me to launch at approx 4500-5000. Granted this was in a car with slicks. So I am not quite sure how the method would work in a street tire car.
Another, more practical method, is to get that clutch out as soon as possible without bogging (as many others have said). It takes Practice and patience but when you roll into the lights try to stay shallow as opposed to deep. This means as soon as you light the second yellow staging light, brake ASAP. Hit the brakes, get stable and be ready to rev the car to about 4000 (that's what I launched at with a standard Hahn RaceCraft stage 2 kit). Meanwhile, you need to be familiar with your clutch and know the friction point (the most difficult part). I held my clutch at about halfway up. When you see the third amber, get to the beginning of the friction point in your clutch (You know when you've done this because you feel the car move a bit). Then use finess in getting the clutch ASAP and getting the throttle in. The main reason I stage shallow is because when I roll just a bit by finding the friction point, I wont break the beam and red light. The other more important reason is because your car will start in a consistent spot everytime. This allows you to become more consistent and with that, hopefully better and better lights.
Hope this helps
Street-Legal 2003 Sunfire 10.58 @ 139 MPH
I launch @2000RPM.
New Picture comming this summer.
