i was bored enough to do some number crunching on grounding kits so here we go:
im not 100% sure but i beleive our stock ground wire size is 10 gauge, assuming our ground wires that are augmented for a grounding kit are 4 feet (thats the number i used, may not be 100% accurate but it gets the point at how the stock wiring is more than sufficient)
ok, so stock wire size is 10 gauge, thats 101.9 circular mils in diameter, at 4 feet, it has a resistance of .0039952 ohms, assuming your car puts out a steady 12VDC, that means the 4ft 10 gauge wire can flow about 3003 amps.
now most ground kits use 8 gauge wire augmenting the stock 10 gauge wire. 8 gauge wire has a diameter of 128.5 mils and 10 gauge is about 100 mils, giving us about 225 mils overall, which is about the same size as 4 gauge wire, so in effect you replaced your stock wires with 4 guage. 4 feet of 4 gauge wire has a resistance of .000994 ohms, and with your 12VDC battery, means the wire can flow 12072 amps.
now, seeing how most cars on here have 100 amp or less alternators, there is no reason how a grounding kit would help, as the stock wires already can handle a ton more current than the alternator can produce.
so its like i always said, people who claim their car performed better, most likely had a bad connection or corroded wires to begin with. using basic ohms law and the american wire gauge standards, the fact that grounding kits don't work is pretty clear
Discuss
You'll never touch God's hand
You'll never taste God's breath
Because you'll never see the second coming
Life's too short to be focused on insanity
I've seen the ways of God
I'll take the devil any day
Hail Satan
(slayer, skeleton christ, 2006)
Then how is it that (I think SCC) did dyno pulls on a SRT-4 without and with a HG kit, and gained 5 HP? Bad Grounding from the factory?
I just want to know, because I'm going to probably have to pull the engine when I get a G35, and if this helps, I want it.
Transeat In Exemplum: Let this stand as the example.
i was just pulling numbers straight from the american wire gauge.....now one thing i did not take into account is connections, if the stock wires had bad crimps on the terminals or were grounded to a point where all the paint wasn't stripped away, that would increse resistance, and reduce current flow
basically under good conditions the stock grounding wires are like taking a 5 inch diameter pipe and pouring a gallon of water down it, and the bigger ground wire kits are like having a 10 inch pipe and the same gallon of water... both will flow the water almost exactly the same since the 5 inch pipe is overkill anyways
You'll never touch God's hand
You'll never taste God's breath
Because you'll never see the second coming
Life's too short to be focused on insanity
I've seen the ways of God
I'll take the devil any day
Hail Satan
(slayer, skeleton christ, 2006)
As a person trained in electricity and electronics I can assue you that the only possible gains would be from inproving on / reducing connection resistance. In a car the only really high demands are at startup, about 600 amps. Charging systems can and do produce up to about 14VDC but that is not enough to make a difference.
The other possible gains might come from reduced electrical emissions (again mostly at the contacts) affecting sensor performance, but I really doubt that. There would be absolutely no improvement on transient currents etc assuming you had OK grounds in the first place.
I suppose a minor improvement may be seen in the efficientcy of the charging system itself, thereby reducing the load on the alternator and possibly feeing up a tiny biy of power. Certainly less than removing your AC would provide.
PAX
^^^as one that does it as an amatuer and has had classes in it i agree. In certain applications, a HG kit would be good (souped-up audio and trying to run the hottest spark (not sparkplug, the spark itself) in that as little resistance as possible will give you eough to squeeze one more decibel, or just that much more of a complete burn on the fuel, but then it's only the ground--you'd have to change out the hot wires as well.
For most of your average setups--including my own, it would be overkill.
Goodbye Callisto & Skaši, Hello Ishara:
2022 Kia Stinger GT2 AWD
The only thing every single person from every single walk of life on earth can truly say
they have in common is that their country is run by a bunch of fargin iceholes.
Jimmy: I understand that, but the question still stands... (assuming they're not padding their numbers or in someother way jiggering with the test)
Assuming that there wasn't someother change applied to the motor (ie, no changes in the motor, no dogging it or checking in different gears), how would the dyno results be changed?
I'm going to admit up front, it can be done (covering the weather sensor on the initial run for instance), but if the test was impartial, what would precipitate the difference?
Transeat In Exemplum: Let this stand as the example.
I was talking with a guy who owns a bike dyno and he told me they can make it say whatever they want. I was in this convo because a friend has bike dyno tuned then thought it seemd slow. He took it to another dyno tuner and it turned out that the claim of higher HP was entirely false, in fact he was a couple ponies shy of stock. Had the second guy redo the job, gained 7HP (a lot for a bike) and learned that dynos can lie (or be programmed to).
PAX
Well, that's why I said assuming that nothing else was tampered with.
Transeat In Exemplum: Let this stand as the example.
